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Forced Induction Turbochargers and Superchargers..Got Boost?

New Hks Supercharger V2

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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 10:35 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by live2themaxuk
nice..
but.. this might help!

http://translate.google.com/translat...language_tools
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 10:50 AM
  #82  
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http://www.ipo.gov.uk/t-find-number?...demark=2431615

hmm..........
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by David.black350z
Evo's Suck
+1, +1
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 12:16 PM
  #84  
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You guys need to realize one thing. The members who say my single turbo, or my twin turbo, or my supercharger kit is reliable and have had 0 problems are not really daily driving the **** outta that car.

If anyone wants to volunteer their F/I Z, I can demolish the thing in a week. N/A is the most reliable type of power when it comes to these engines because thats what they were designed for. The supercharger guys have belts being ripped to shreds, the turbo guys have seals leaking, hoses poppin' off, etc.

The less power the kits make the more reliable it will be in the long run. This is why stillen is the most reliable kit out there, this is why the original HKS was very reliable. The company didn't want consumers going over 380hp.

Lets stop brand stomping here and move on.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 97supratt
The members who say my single turbo, or my twin turbo, or my supercharger kit is reliable and have had 0 problems are not really daily driving the **** outta that car.
Anyone who knows me would gladly argue that. Of course there's no way to run WOT 100% of the time on the street. Between traffic and space constraints not to mention the laws of the road I can't go Formula D my entire commute. But when there's room to do it I'm on it like theres no tomorrow. Also the term reliable is subject to each persons personal thoughts on it. I fully expect certain things to fail or need extra attention. Once you do ANYTHING aftermarket to a car you can expect that your maintenance is not going to be limited to an oil change every 3,000 miles. Especially if you are adding forced induction. Oil changes, spark plug changes, brake pads, hoses, clamps, bolts, seals, etc. They all have to be checked more often and addressed when there is an issue. A leaking line is not an issue to me because I'll replace it the minute I find it if theres an issue. To someone not as knowledgeable its not reliable. I think your statement is far to broad on this.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
Anyone who knows me would gladly argue that. Of course there's no way to run WOT 100% of the time on the street. Between traffic and space constraints not to mention the laws of the road I can't go Formula D my entire commute. But when there's room to do it I'm on it like theres no tomorrow. Also the term reliable is subject to each persons personal thoughts on it. I fully expect certain things to fail or need extra attention. Once you do ANYTHING aftermarket to a car you can expect that your maintenance is not going to be limited to an oil change every 3,000 miles. Especially if you are adding forced induction. Oil changes, spark plug changes, brake pads, hoses, clamps, bolts, seals, etc. They all have to be checked more often and addressed when there is an issue. A leaking line is not an issue to me because I'll replace it the minute I find it if theres an issue. To someone not as knowledgeable its not reliable. I think your statement is far to broad on this.

Not everyone is as mechanically inclined as us. They blow headgaskets by trying to replace their coolant.

For the average person who doesn't know didly squat who just mashes the pedal, the less power the better.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 12:30 PM
  #87  
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The KOENIGSEGG CCX is the second fastest production car and yes it does use ROTREX units
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 12:31 PM
  #88  
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It will be interesting to see though if this kit does seem to be 'the most reliable forced induction option on the stock block'. HKS is regarded i think as one of the more 'polished' brands, so ium sure they did their research. They seem to be marketing it as such, but it will be interesting to see if it really is the case.

Seems like a decent performance increase to me too. Turbos are obviously more exciting though

J
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 12:38 PM
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I say we all pool our FI money together and split one of these....it's FI w/ a warranty...that's the best of both worlds!!!

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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by NoahzBurnt
I say we all pool our FI money together and split one of these....it's FI w/ a warranty...that's the best of both worlds!!!
I'll do it if you throw in a pair of those sweet looking capris.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 01:01 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by turismo
A base 350z, is cheaper and faster than an Evo.
Originally Posted by taurran
Because an Evo RS isn't faster than a Z (especially the 06-07 models).
I will quote you as a retort to you and turismo's statements...
Originally Posted by taurran
Show us traps and timeslips to substantiate that wild claim.
You do realize that Evo IX RS' are selling WAY below invoice, right?

On to this HKS S/C crap, who the hell wants to pay $7-9k for this? I'd really want to slap someone that would **** their money away for something just because it's branded with the HKS logo.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 01:04 PM
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its actually about £2,900 or about $6000, so its pretty well priced.

Seems like the 'non tuner' kit want the standard cats in place
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 01:14 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by taurran
That's an incorrect and oversimplified way to put it. I can see how you may make some of these assumptions based on the opinions of some on these forums who may be biased in certain directions, but it's far from the actual truth.
I totally agree. You can have the "safest" kit on the market and still blow your ****. It comes with the territory. Whatever kit you chose is only gonna be as safe as the tune you're running. Out-the-box tunes=no bueno.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 01:17 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by taurran
I'll do it if you throw in a pair of those sweet looking capris.
I'd take the sunglasses.

OT, but why do you insist the Evo MR is the best of the bunch?

Tony (is real curious)
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 01:22 PM
  #95  
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Maybe they are better now, but a few years ago i tried finding just a head unit to buy in the US, the owner of neuspeed told me they were junk. I belive him over you HKS Nuthuggers.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by bboypuertoroc
I'd take the sunglasses.

OT, but why do you insist the Evo MR is the best of the bunch?

Tony (is real curious)
Yeah, real OT. You should make another Evo vs Z thread.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 02:34 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by taurran
Yeah, real OT. You should make another Evo vs Z thread.
Touché. Well, thinking about it, I didn't bring up the Evo in this thread.

Tony (has never started an Evo vs Z thread and doesn't need to... plenty exist)
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 02:52 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by rocks
Maybe they are better now, but a few years ago i tried finding just a head unit to buy in the US, the owner of neuspeed told me they were junk. I belive him over you HKS Nuthuggers.
Hmm, I know people that have been using Rotex units for years in modded trucks and had nothing but great things to say about them and the first dually my dad modded had one and no problems. Can't say something is junk w/o having experience with it.

I will however agree that the HKS is overpriced and anyone who buys one is nuts...just like the forum member who has the $7,000 exhaust system.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 11:09 PM
  #99  
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Rotrex = nice S/C for overall powerband

For the money though there are some viable options

And I am sorry but the nutswinger is ballin in europe but too cheap to buy a ST or TT kit and have it tuned? Complains about reliability but wants to run 300+kph?

Are you kidding me? Multple personalities much?

With supporting mods a good FI system can make as much power as youll need for a street car

If you want rotrex power thats REALIABLE you might as well call GTM and buy a 3.8L stroker block with supporting mods.....might come out a little more expensive but 350+whp NA will move much better than the rotrex unit for near the same price and be more "reliable"

Then if you want boost a rotrex can be added on for even more "reliable" power lol....I find it funny when people mod and complain about money....once you give in to the mod give you follow a dark path....the road to big power and endless "maintainence" lol

Brake pads, rotors, oil, tires.....then tuning, upgrading, clutches, diffs, axles, gauges...

If all you had to worry about was the FI system it woul be much cheaper but with any power adder its the ripple effect that will cost you bags of money over the long haul.....but you get a ton of fun to go with it.....cost of business

The modding lifestyle is about the journey because few folks ever hit their goals with anything they are driving...and if by some miracle they do....they buy another car and start the process all over again

HKS isnt a bad option, it just would only be considered the best for set and forget folks.....I think enthusiasts will not only expect more but push it farther and into an unsafe range anyway....so the "reliable" portion is only as good as the end user allows it

Stock cats? Stock tune + locked Vpro? Seems like the opposite of what most folks are looking for....options....not handcuffs
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 12:15 AM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by SergEK
Rotrex = nice S/C for overall powerband

For the money though there are some viable options

And I am sorry but the nutswinger is ballin in europe but too cheap to buy a ST or TT kit and have it tuned? Complains about reliability but wants to run 300+kph?

Are you kidding me? Multple personalities much?

With supporting mods a good FI system can make as much power as youll need for a street car

If you want rotrex power thats REALIABLE you might as well call GTM and buy a 3.8L stroker block with supporting mods.....might come out a little more expensive but 350+whp NA will move much better than the rotrex unit for near the same price and be more "reliable"

Then if you want boost a rotrex can be added on for even more "reliable" power lol....I find it funny when people mod and complain about money....once you give in to the mod give you follow a dark path....the road to big power and endless "maintainence" lol

Brake pads, rotors, oil, tires.....then tuning, upgrading, clutches, diffs, axles, gauges...

If all you had to worry about was the FI system it woul be much cheaper but with any power adder its the ripple effect that will cost you bags of money over the long haul.....but you get a ton of fun to go with it.....cost of business

The modding lifestyle is about the journey because few folks ever hit their goals with anything they are driving...and if by some miracle they do....they buy another car and start the process all over again

HKS isnt a bad option, it just would only be considered the best for set and forget folks.....I think enthusiasts will not only expect more but push it farther and into an unsafe range anyway....so the "reliable" portion is only as good as the end user allows it

Stock cats? Stock tune + locked Vpro? Seems like the opposite of what most folks are looking for....options....not handcuffs
Ok, let me clarify things a little. You guys in the states enjoy an automotive utopia where everything is available and endless resources. Here in Spain we don't have jack, and on top of that, aswell as paying for the mods, whenever you have something done to your car no matter how small that is, even changing the load rating on you tires (seriously), you have to go and get it certified and passed by an industrial engineer, and depending on what you do this isn't cheap. For example Changing my front bumper and tire load/speed rating, cost me just over 1000 bucks. Having an engineer certify any form of FI can cost around 3500 bucks, just for an f'ing engineer to look at it and say OK.
I have got the FI bug, but i want something that i can just leave on the car and thats the end of it. If i get a turbo and keep wanting to add something to make it that bit better, then when i buy a part that costs 500 buck, i'll still have to fork out another 3000 grand to get the engine re-certified. Can you see why i would want to go that route (hint:very very expensive). So, out of all the kit's out there, like many people have mentioned, the HKS one is pronanly the closest i can get to FI, without having to bolt something on to make it better some time in the future.
And what's wrong with wanting to do 300kph, with the Z's drag coefficient of 0.29, you only need about 400-420 crank.
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