I'm at 8.8:1 but I wish I had stayed with stock compression and a little lower boost. I notice a loss in bottom end at AutoX events and I am not running enough boost (yet) to make up for it on the top end at large track events.

 

I'm currently at 8.5:1 and boost to 18PSI. What PSI do you run up to?

 

I'm only at 8-9 psi on 440 DW's. I hope to run 12+ with the new tune but have concerns about 440's running out of juice........Tunner states they're good to 14psi But I really doubt that.

 

My biggest problem where I live (Far NorCal) is no tunners!!! I would like to get bigger injectors and crank up my boost with a good Utec tune.....but no one can give a good tunner even within 4 hours drive.

 

uuh... It's your engine, not his. I highly recommend upgrading the injectors. I'm using 600 DWs, and they get maxed out at 18PSI.

I'm considering bumping the static CR up to 9.6:1.

 

Why not just increase the base fuel pressure? I am at 15psi with RC440's and 1:1 AFPR, I can get it as rich as i want down to the 10's at that boost, also my duty cycle is below 75%.

 

How do I increase base fuel pressure???? over what I have now? Dumb questions I'm sure but I am not a tunner and asking more questions usually saves me grief down the road

 

I thought you could only increase base fuel pressure if you installed a fuel return system or something of the sort. I don't think toying with the fuel pressure is possible on a car with only upgraded injectors, walbro fuel pump, and stock fuel system.

 

/\ +1 or if you use an FMU to increase the pressure when boost kicks in.

 

I was going down the road today and my Z started stumbling as it was building boost. Thought it may be traction control at first but thats not the case. I checked my charge pipe as it has been known to blow off and cause almost identical symptoms. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated


I have a stock block with STS kit tuned at 8psi with UTEC

 

Do you have a Wideband? What is your A/F when the car stumble? Post some logs with A/F if you can. There are a couple of things I can think of on top of my head that may cause this. 1. Temp changed and utec temp compensation isn't setup right. 2. check your MAF sensor if it is wet. Are you stumbling when you are on boost or just before you hit boost and what rpm.

 

I don't have a wideband but that will be my next investment. MAF is not wet and it is stumbling right around -10 as it is headed to boost. The temp compensation is set up.

 

Was the car running fine before? You dont have a WB so we dont know if it is the fuel that is causing this.

 

It was running fine less than 8 hours before. I'm taking it to the shop that built it in the morning and looking at widebands now. Thank you for the help

 

I'm sorry if this has already been answered in the 100+ pages on this topic, but do you have to use their exhaust? because I'm not about to give up mine and its true dual, the sound is too sweet and if i could somehow have the sts and my exhaust I would cringe with excitement everytime i drove my car. also another quesiton that has probably been answered but how much does the kit run for a g35 coupe?

 

Hey guys, I am wondering what is the hose diameter from the turbo to the scavenge pump most of you guys are using (or w/e comes with the STS kit)?

I have a 1/2" hose from turbo to pump, and I am considering changing it to 3/8th so the pump can do a better job as sucking the oil.

 

not STS, but SP and SFR use 3/4" with their oil pumps

 

finally sold my kit! woohoo ordered my lq4

 

anyone got a tune for 600cc DW injectors, with the upgraded t-67 turbo? =] i dont know if the upgraded turbo will make a differnece in trimming the fuel levels, but im sick of running on the bs tune not boosting and driving my car under 3.5k rpms ... and too poor for a good tune atm =]

 

If you want your motor to last then you need a tune!! You can just use someone's map and expect it will yield the same result. The turbo size shouldn't matter that much since boost is boost. How your car react on that boost is the difference so you really need a dyno to tune the ignition. Do you have a wideband? What EMS are you using? If you are brave then you can always make adjustment on the fuel but I wouldn't touch the ignition unless you know what you are doing and have access to a dyno.