Jerome

iTrader: (8)

Anyone have a digital copy of the install instructions?

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

I have an old copy for the side-mount instructions. PM me your email address.

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

I know some of you guys had everything installed at a shop, but do you just reuse the 2.5" ring/crush gasket from the OEM exhaust between the mid-pipe and the STS piping? I was smart and threw my stock gaskets out a while ago, and of course the stealership doesn't have any in stock. I'm going to hit up Napa on the way home and pray that they have one in-stock.

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

Are you using the stock mid pipe or are you trying to use the nismo mid pipe?

I had to drive around to every exhaust shop in town to find a gasket that would work.

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

Sorry, I should have stated: stock mid-pipe. I know that one for the Nismo is hard to find, but I'm just looking for a stock diameter one (should be 2.5").

Anyways - that works fine with the STS? I wanted to make sure I didn't need to get a gasket like the one between the y-pipe and mid-pipe. I'll know soon enough when I try it out tonight, just wanted to know before I buy the wrong thing.

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

Should work if you can buy the gasket tonight. If worse comes to worse, you can buy something with the correct diameter and cut the gasket to fit.

WASHWIZ

I reused my gasket. It still did not form a complete seal from the OEM mid to the STS pipe. I would use some kind of liquid gasket (RTV).

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

I got one from Napa, which is a combination of the mental ring and paper gasket - so it should work. The OEM one is just the metal ring (although thicker than the Napa one).

I'm sure I'll have multiple exhaust leaks, so I'll be ready to bust out the RTV.

I got a lot done last night, but still a decent amount to do. I have the turbo up with everything mounted, charge pipes connected (tight fit - but they fit up there nicely), wiring run along the firewall for the cleaner look. I need to drop down my y-pipe to cut off the edge of a heat shield since it's rubbing on the charge pipe.

Things that I don't like...

- Kit was missing a few nuts and bolts, so I've had to make a few trips to the hardware store.
- Install instructions didn't come with a parts list, and part identification is next to nil when it tells you what parts to use.
- Instead of rolled edges on the pipes, they have dimples in them. However, sometimes they aren't very close to the edge, so the clamp goes over them. Coupled with the crappy clamps, this might not create a very good seal. I might have to replace most of the clamps with t-bolt clamps later.
- The charge pipe coming out of the compressor hangs much lower than it needs to. There's plenty space above it not to have it angle down. I'll get a pic of this later.

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

Sounds good. I had to run to the hardware store so many times I bought one of those huge variety packs full of stainless nuts and bolts.

Make sure you check the clearance between the down/cats/test pipes and the charge air piping. If they hit, you get the most god aweful vibration. I took a hammer to it and knocked it out a little bit.

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

I was actually worried about this (I posted up about it only a few days ago), but there's actually a good 2" gap between my HFC and the pipe. Would be a good location to slap some heat reflective material on that section of the charge pipe, since it will get nice and toasty until I get my HFC's jet-hot coated.

Also, I really need to wrap my mid-pipe, but I will do that sometime over the winter.

ekelly36

iTrader: (9)

after reading all that im glad I didnt get a sts kit... for a company to send you something like that and you still having to go to the hardware store is simply retarded.... sounds like you would have had better luck having a muffler shop fab all your piping for a couple hundred bucks.

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

Yeah - it makes it really hard to recommend this kit. I would make suggestions to STS, and probably will, but I just get the feeling that they really won't give a ****. Really the only thing you're paying for outside of the standard components (turbo, wg, oil scavenge pump, intercooler, etc.) is the piping and their wiring setup (that can be easily made).

Now, it would take a lot of time to figure out and weld up this piping and actually get it to fit as well as it does from STS. And it would cost a decent amount just sourcing the flanges and piping. So you have the respect the components and R&D that went into it (well, it seems they kind of stole a decent amount of R&D from another shop).

However, the kit itself is very simple. But so are most of the other single turbo kits. I paid the price because I knew going the custom route would have been a major pain in the ***, and still would have cost a decent chunk of change.

EDIT: and there's no way a shop would charge you a few hundred bucks in labor - unless they did it as a favor. I'm sure it would be well over 1k in time alone.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

I will not defend STS on missing parts coz they do send missing parts so you really have to check everything before you start the install.. They will send missing parts once you tell them... I know it suck. Also JonnyC didnt' buy the complete kit. He bought a used turbo and FMIC from another member and just bought the rest of the piping from STS. I think he also have Utec/Injector already. I always advice people to really make sure there is no missing parts before you start the install.

STS has their flaws and so do TN and other kits.... Yes, STS can be a pain when starting the install but once everything is installed and tuned right then it is one of the most reliable kit and has yet to blow a motor with the Stock Kit.

Jerome

iTrader: (8)

I'm in the middle of my install, and I have a couple of questions:

In the directions, it says, "Remove the factory PCV crossover tube between the valve covers. Install one end of the 20 inch long ½” hose onto the single port side of the switch valve and secure with a hose clamp. Then install the other end onto the PCV crossover tube port on the driver side valve cover."

Is this the crossover tube that they're referring to?



Also, they mention, "From the passenger side of the vehicle, remove the factory spring clamp from the factory crank case hose at the rear of the engine. Install the large end of the supplied plastic 90 degree adapter into the factory hose and clamp with the supplied ½” hose clamp. Insert the small end of the plastic 90 degree adapter into the supplied filter and secure the clamp."

Are they ACTUALLY referring to the large vacuum hose that came off of the stock intake piping, prior to the throttle body (only large vacuum hose on the stock intake piping)?

This one?

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

Two inches should be more than enough clearance. The engine does not torque that much. I would def wrap the cat or put some reflective material on the charge air pipe.

WASHWIZ

I would wrap all pipes going to the turbo. I have to find the pics I took but I have them somewhere. Also, I would NOT use a HFC. Either stay w/ stock or go w/ test pipes. If the HFC fall apart, turbo is toast.

WASHWIZ

Correct on both.

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

Damn it, now why do you have to take me from a high after just driving the car for the first time, to me being worried now



Well, I'm pumped. I got the car done just in time for a Z car cruise tomorrow It took me forever, but it's running. At first the dump pipe off of the turbine housing wasn't on quite straight. And the Napa exhaust gasket leaked like crazy. I went to get a different one, and that leaked. So I RTV'ed the crap out of it, but I think it still leaks. The STS flange is good, it's just that the stock mid-pipe flange bends on the edges so there isn't a good seal towards the middle. I'll have to figure out what I'm going to do about that. Might have to have an exhaust shop weld up a nice solid flat flange.

Actually, when I first started it up I was like "holy hell there's a huge exhaust leak" - but it's just the way it sounds, haha. It's louder than I thought it would be, but sounds amazing. However, driving around I think there are multiple exhaust leaks, along with a nice little rattle at times from one of the charge pipes maybe?

I don't have a drip of fluid anywhere, which surprised me. I'll top off my oil in the morning. After letting it idle for a bit to fill up the lines, I was about 1/2 quart low. I have an oil pan spacer for added security, so I'll be running 7 qrts now.

I took it out in the dark and was really worried that something would go wrong - I even brought a backup battery for my flashlight. I took it slow not going into boost to make sure everything was good. Ran it to 2 psi, changed the AFR a bit. Ran it again, did the same. Then I found an industrial area and did like 8 runs with it - about 4 of them all out. 3.5 psi on the wastegate!! (reference line from compressor, no BCS action) It's actually really nice since I can flush out the AFR tuning down low while being able to go WOT. With the Vortech, I set the fuel cutoff low when tuning it for the first time when I wanted to start tuning the lower loads.

Here's an awesome graph from LogAnalyzer (this thing really needs to have more flexibility)...



So, it seems as though *so far* the only problems I'm having are with idle. I took a video, but it didn't capture the sounds good enough. It idles quite rough, as though it's starved for air. The exhaust seems to backfire as well after you let it sit for a bit - it just goes "pop....pop..........pop". It also backfires pretty good on decel, so I don't know if this is usual or not.

Anyone else have problems with their idle? I installed a check valve in my PCV hose to keep boost out of my ghetto catch can and PCV valve - and it doesn't seem to flow much air. Doubt that would be the issue though.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

Good to hear you are running... What do you mean by idle problem? Check if you have a leak coz my idle is pretty good. I do sometimes have that popping sound when idling especially when the car is fully warmed. How is the A/F?

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

A/F is great.

As for the idle, when I come to a stop sign it acts as though it wants to die. Basically, once it's fully warmed up it has a rough idle around 500-600.

My friend has a Consult II, so maybe I'll have him raise my idle? Although I shouldn't have to do that. Also, if it was a vacuum leak, wouldn't the idle increase?