Daily drivers with FI...
So I'm considering going FI with a turbonetics single turbo setup on my 05 Z with 25K miles. I've been doing research for months now and I'm trying to get ALL the info I can before I make this BIG investment. I would like all the Z owners that have FI on their daily drivers to comment here PLEASE!
What is the most common problem that a daily driver with FI will experience?
(clutch? brakes?) I'm just trying to gauge what I can expect and how much it will possibly be...
I'm already aware of the AC lines that get fried with the turbonetics kit, that's why I'm having my AC re-routed and fire-wrapped at Z-Fever in tampa IF and WHEN I go FI
Thanks for the input!
What is the most common problem that a daily driver with FI will experience?
(clutch? brakes?) I'm just trying to gauge what I can expect and how much it will possibly be...
I'm already aware of the AC lines that get fried with the turbonetics kit, that's why I'm having my AC re-routed and fire-wrapped at Z-Fever in tampa IF and WHEN I go FI
Thanks for the input!
Originally Posted by eltness350
no offense man but the noob patrol is comin your way...just keep searchin the f1 forums...this topic has been beat up like a $2 *****....
The Z isn't my daily driver but it is still a great car for daily driving with my TN set-up.
The only major factor is how hard you drive the car. If you beat the **** out of it everyday, it won't last that long. If you drive normally, it feels like a normal Z as you need to get into boost in order to go really fast.
The only major factor is how hard you drive the car. If you beat the **** out of it everyday, it won't last that long. If you drive normally, it feels like a normal Z as you need to get into boost in order to go really fast.
I have the jwt tt kit and Its not as bad as you would think. Just need to change your oil and plugs drive it and not beat the fuc out of it and you should be fine. just be ready to build a motor or replace a clutch at anytime because you never know what can happen.
I have 83k miles on my 2004 G35 with 20k miles boosted in the past year, since PF put on my TN kit last February.
The problems to date:
-AC has been out since the install...could have been due to using a friends used TN ac line
-Innovate wideband E2 code since August.
-Melted a whole in my lower radiator hose this past Saturday and just replaced it yesterday and the car is running fine.
Reliability is all in the tune and how you upkeep your car. I'd highly suggest taking it to PF to have Jeremy give you a rock solid tune.
The problems to date:
-AC has been out since the install...could have been due to using a friends used TN ac line
-Innovate wideband E2 code since August.
-Melted a whole in my lower radiator hose this past Saturday and just replaced it yesterday and the car is running fine.
Reliability is all in the tune and how you upkeep your car. I'd highly suggest taking it to PF to have Jeremy give you a rock solid tune.
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I don't plan on beating on the car hardly at all... Just occasional "spirited" drives. But I'm only planning on running a MILD and conservative tune (the out of the box ECU flash that comes with the kit)
To add on to this. If you get a TN kit, does your engine suffer When you are NOT in boost? What I mean is...when youre is not flooring it, do you still suffer the risk of the engine blowing? I would think as a daily driver you would be extra cautious....well, only if youre on a stock engine.
if its your only car, the biggest draw back will be the insecurity you will face every day as your wait for the engine to eventually blow up unless you take it to a very very good installer and tuner.
Originally Posted by ChrisCJ99
I don't plan on beating on the car hardly at all... Just occasional "spirited" drives. But I'm only planning on running a MILD and conservative tune (the out of the box ECU flash that comes with the kit)
I have had my TN kit on my car since June 2005......I think....has it really been that long? lol Any matter, it is my primary vehicle. The only problem I have had was the A/C line. But the last time I had that problem all I had to do was give Reggie a call and he sent one right out. Keep in mind I was still with in my one year warranty. So that just goes to show how long ago I had the problem and that it is possible to have A/C and the TN kit. You just have to be a little creative when routing the A/C line! Now to answer your daily driver question......you can drive your car without ever getting into the boost. Its not like you are constantly in boost because you have a turbo on your car. As long as you drive your car conservatively you wouldn't be able to tell you have it. But, all you have to do is push down a little more and your off. Just think of your gas pedal as a dimmer switch....I know it sounds weird but the more and faster you push it down the more and quicker you will get into your boost!!!!! Have fun, but be smart!!!
Originally Posted by Alberto
Originally Posted by Alberto
BOOM-theflash is garbage, keep reading. Get ready for a rebuild or a stock block replacememnt + labor. Either way its not cheap!
Thanks for the input guys! Keep em coming!
Originally Posted by ChrisCJ99
Really???? How is the reflash garbage?? Hmmm. I will read on this too, which I've already tried looking into it. But why would turbonetics sell a flash that it possibly FATAL to your engine??? I understand that you don't have the luxury of being able to fine tune your engine, as you could with an UTEC, but I'm not going for BIG numbers. Just something SAFE. Sure the UTEC is safe also, but it pushes the turbo a little harder to get more performance (which is GREAT if that's what you want - more power - but I would be more than happy with 360 whp)
Thanks for the input guys! Keep em coming!
Thanks for the input guys! Keep em coming!
a reflash can't account for variable boost levels. It's a compromise that will lead to certain conditions briefly running too lean and others briefly running too rich
for instance going WOT at 2500 rpms and hitting 8 psi at 3500 rpms vs starting at 3500 rpms then going WOT which initially starts out as 0 psi then hitting 8 psi later at 4000-4200 rpms.
You're going WOT at 3500 rpms in both situations, but they're going to require drastically different A/F ratios since the psi is different
The ECU can only understand 0-100% throttle positions at 3500 rpms. It can't understand what boost pressure is because it's not a turbo ECU to begin with with no psi input going into it.
The UTEC can only account for 2 out of 3 variables too and most tuners use boost and rpm as the variables, while 100% WOT is a fixed parameter. So you end up getting a jerk as you go from <100% throttle to 100% throttle when the UTEC kicks in
for instance going WOT at 2500 rpms and hitting 8 psi at 3500 rpms vs starting at 3500 rpms then going WOT which initially starts out as 0 psi then hitting 8 psi later at 4000-4200 rpms.
You're going WOT at 3500 rpms in both situations, but they're going to require drastically different A/F ratios since the psi is different
The ECU can only understand 0-100% throttle positions at 3500 rpms. It can't understand what boost pressure is because it's not a turbo ECU to begin with with no psi input going into it.
The UTEC can only account for 2 out of 3 variables too and most tuners use boost and rpm as the variables, while 100% WOT is a fixed parameter. So you end up getting a jerk as you go from <100% throttle to 100% throttle when the UTEC kicks in
Last edited by sentry65; Feb 6, 2008 at 04:26 PM.
Originally Posted by sentry65
a reflash can't account for variable boost levels. It's a compromise that will lead to certain conditions briefly running too lean and others briefly running too rich
for instance going WOT at 2500 rpms and hitting 8 psi at 3500 rpms vs starting at 3500 rpms then going WOT which initially starts out as 0 psi then hitting 8 psi later at 4000-4200 rpms.
You're going WOT in both situations, but they're going to require drastically different A/F ratios since the psi is different in both situations.
The ECU can only understand 0-100% throttle positions at 3500 rpms. It can't understand what boost pressure is because it's not a turbo ECU to begin with with no psi input going into it
for instance going WOT at 2500 rpms and hitting 8 psi at 3500 rpms vs starting at 3500 rpms then going WOT which initially starts out as 0 psi then hitting 8 psi later at 4000-4200 rpms.
You're going WOT in both situations, but they're going to require drastically different A/F ratios since the psi is different in both situations.
The ECU can only understand 0-100% throttle positions at 3500 rpms. It can't understand what boost pressure is because it's not a turbo ECU to begin with with no psi input going into it
Originally Posted by ChrisCJ99
Understood. Good explanation! So will these conditions be FATAL to the car, or just somewhat of an annoyance?
it only takes 1 ping to bomb your motor. like has been said above, if its your DD, the only difference (barring a good install and tune) is the constant threat of something getting out of whack for a second and you needing a rental for weeks.



