F/I Hesitation
Hey,
I'm enjoying year 2 on my second Z, the first of which was bone stock for the year I owned it, its successor has seen some simple bolt ons :
HKS Hi-Power exhaust
Injen CAI
JWT Clutch Flywheel
Motordyne Copper Plenum etc
I've always wanted to go F/I, but my lack of knowledge on the subject and perhaps automotive repair in general has kept me from pulling the trigger. I mean for the beginner and perhaps the intermediate level enthusiast knowing what the difference between what you need and what people try to sell you can be overwhelming, on top of not knowing why you need it.
I've finally decided the only way to learn was from experience, and have pulled the trigger on a JWT Twin Turbo setup. I've purchased my UTEC, own a
compatible clutch/flywheel and exhaust so my question becomes what do I need to get up and running ? Just the basic requirements to drive out of the shop and perhaps run it for a few weeks until I swallow the bill and begin adding other items.
Gauges ? OP, AF, Boost ??
Turbo Timer ?
etc., etc.,
Thanks for the help
I'm enjoying year 2 on my second Z, the first of which was bone stock for the year I owned it, its successor has seen some simple bolt ons :
HKS Hi-Power exhaust
Injen CAI
JWT Clutch Flywheel
Motordyne Copper Plenum etc
I've always wanted to go F/I, but my lack of knowledge on the subject and perhaps automotive repair in general has kept me from pulling the trigger. I mean for the beginner and perhaps the intermediate level enthusiast knowing what the difference between what you need and what people try to sell you can be overwhelming, on top of not knowing why you need it.
I've finally decided the only way to learn was from experience, and have pulled the trigger on a JWT Twin Turbo setup. I've purchased my UTEC, own a
compatible clutch/flywheel and exhaust so my question becomes what do I need to get up and running ? Just the basic requirements to drive out of the shop and perhaps run it for a few weeks until I swallow the bill and begin adding other items.
Gauges ? OP, AF, Boost ??
Turbo Timer ?
etc., etc.,
Thanks for the help
All you need is a A/F gauge and get a boost controller with a built in boost gauge like the HKS EVC. That all you need. Oh, and I recommend a walbro 255 fuel pump and CJM fuel return system at the min.
my stock block went kaboom at the track this weekend. just make sure you are financially ready to spend another 6 to 8k for a built block if your motor goes. i for one was prepared went F/I knowing this. just gotta find the right beater now.
Well I have the clutch/flywheel and the UTEC already (listed in first post)
I'm not looking to make crazy ponies right now just < or = 400rwhp on a reliable tune. I would settle for 350 out of the shop until i absorb some of the expense etc.,
So to get back on topic - I should ensure i have an A/F and Boost gauge. That should keep me ok for a little while assuming i'm not doing crazy pulls
I'm not looking to make crazy ponies right now just < or = 400rwhp on a reliable tune. I would settle for 350 out of the shop until i absorb some of the expense etc.,
So to get back on topic - I should ensure i have an A/F and Boost gauge. That should keep me ok for a little while assuming i'm not doing crazy pulls
Originally Posted by Glow
Well I have the clutch/flywheel and the UTEC already (listed in first post)
I'm not looking to make crazy ponies right now just < or = 400rwhp on a reliable tune. I would settle for 350 out of the shop until i absorb some of the expense etc.,
So to get back on topic - I should ensure i have an A/F and Boost gauge. That should keep me ok for a little while assuming i'm not doing crazy pulls
I'm not looking to make crazy ponies right now just < or = 400rwhp on a reliable tune. I would settle for 350 out of the shop until i absorb some of the expense etc.,
So to get back on topic - I should ensure i have an A/F and Boost gauge. That should keep me ok for a little while assuming i'm not doing crazy pulls
Originally Posted by Nexx
my car was around 380whp with a conservative tune, all gauges etc.. weather conditions were prefect A/F was perfect... she just gave...
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Originally Posted by Nexx
04, 21k
Either way 380 looks like a good number for me at the moment. I rarely
track my car - maybe two - five times a year.
Originally Posted by Glow
Wow - any other reasons you can think of ? Do you track it often ?
Either way 380 looks like a good number for me at the moment. I rarely
track my car - maybe two - five times a year.
Either way 380 looks like a good number for me at the moment. I rarely
track my car - maybe two - five times a year.
Originally Posted by Nexx
my stock block went kaboom at the track this weekend. just make sure you are financially ready to spend another 6 to 8k for a built block if your motor goes. i for one was prepared went F/I knowing this. just gotta find the right beater now. 
HMMMMM NEXX u gave me TONS OF $HIT when it happened to mine.....now....bwahahaha.....welcome to the club....
Originally Posted by eltness350
HMMMMM NEXX u gave me TONS OF $HIT when it happened to mine.....now....bwahahaha.....welcome to the club....
Originally Posted by eltness350
HMMMMM NEXX u gave me TONS OF $HIT when it happened to mine.....now....bwahahaha.....welcome to the club....
Originally Posted by Jay'Z
Damn R.I.P. Nexx......
Who is gonna build ur new engine??
Who is gonna build ur new engine??
Originally Posted by Glow
In retrospect do you think it was user error ? Installation issues, maintenance issues ? or bad tunes etc., ?? So your telling me a conservative tune can blow a young block for no reason other than it was in the cards ?
Originally Posted by Nexx
our rods are like butta, they've realized it i think and the HR's have thicker, stronger ones. our cars were never intended to boosted. its a roll of the dice really.
Originally Posted by Jay'Z
What makes u say it blew??



