Eagletanggreen---> ForgedPerformance long term motor update<------
Originally Posted by rcdash
Well, at least, calculate correctly. $4k per mile * 10k miles = 40 MILLION DOLLARS.
Sharif, tell me it ain't so! ha ha.
Actually this must be the deal of the millennium then, because you too can get a $40M motor for way less than $4k, right here:
http://www.forgedperformance.com/sto...cat=277&page=1
Sharif, tell me it ain't so! ha ha.
Actually this must be the deal of the millennium then, because you too can get a $40M motor for way less than $4k, right here:
http://www.forgedperformance.com/sto...cat=277&page=1
Professional
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,293
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From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by eagletanggreen
This is my long term review on my the ForgedPerformance motor build and JWT850BB turbos.
This weekend my car turned 10,000 miles since I picked up the car from FP.
As far as the motor is concerned, it is running stronger than ever, Joe Kenefic did another leak down and compression test and all was perfect. The motor doesnt burn any oil what so ever, and I do drive the car very hard. The only major problem I have had (if you call it major ) is the Fans, going crazy, but that was fixed this weekend by Modified Auto designs in IN (thats another tread in its self).
The turbos
As far as the turbos, well in the begining I was up and down on the choice I made, but now I just cannot see myself not having them. The more time I spend with them the more I love them, they make soo much torque, and are so linear, and that makes them very manageable. I just love them!
The tune
What can I say the tune is just right for me and is what I wanted all along
What went wrong!
Fans
they were wired way wrong!
cam sensors
They failed and cost me $1000 to diagnose
Rear diff
Shop fail to tell me to change fluid frequently
Catch can
shop failed to install catch can properly
Initial tune
was weak as hell, was fixed when I went back in Feb of this year.
Some notes:
My car has been runned at up to 260temps on the track, on the strip it sees a top of 195, on the street never above 180. I have the big KOYO just to give you an idea on how well this rad works, I drove from NC to IN with no fans and saw max engine temps of 188 going thru the hill in WV, thats bad *** with no fans!
I check the oil every time I leave my house (duh!)
Purge my motor every 2 or 3 weeks or right aftera track event (that I have not done since Jan)
change oil around 2K (I dont know why I just do)
DO a 4th gear pull once a week at all boost levels to confirm proper boost and A/F (becuase I dont look at my gauges when I drive fast)
I always look at my engine temp ALWAYS like 200 times on every drive (I don't why but I do).
Check all lines hoses for leaks, cracks, when changing oil.
I am sharing this cuz I might be doing something right, cuz I drive the car harder than anyone on this forum (guarantee), and its holding up like a champ. This is on eagle rods, pistons and S7 cams, with meth and high boost 19-20 psi. IMO this is all you need to support 700hp and some big turbos. Im doing it, so can you.
I will start another thread of some things "Modified Auto Design" did to make my car more street and track ready sometime this week, also some reviews and fixes a certain BOV I installed fixed.
Till then if you have any questions please feel free to PM me, I am always looking to help out the community.
Remember keep the motor simple and go big with the turbos, for big power!!
Luie
This weekend my car turned 10,000 miles since I picked up the car from FP.
As far as the motor is concerned, it is running stronger than ever, Joe Kenefic did another leak down and compression test and all was perfect. The motor doesnt burn any oil what so ever, and I do drive the car very hard. The only major problem I have had (if you call it major ) is the Fans, going crazy, but that was fixed this weekend by Modified Auto designs in IN (thats another tread in its self).
The turbos
As far as the turbos, well in the begining I was up and down on the choice I made, but now I just cannot see myself not having them. The more time I spend with them the more I love them, they make soo much torque, and are so linear, and that makes them very manageable. I just love them!
The tune
What can I say the tune is just right for me and is what I wanted all along
What went wrong!
Fans
they were wired way wrong!
cam sensors
They failed and cost me $1000 to diagnose
Rear diff
Shop fail to tell me to change fluid frequently
Catch can
shop failed to install catch can properly
Initial tune
was weak as hell, was fixed when I went back in Feb of this year.
Some notes:
My car has been runned at up to 260temps on the track, on the strip it sees a top of 195, on the street never above 180. I have the big KOYO just to give you an idea on how well this rad works, I drove from NC to IN with no fans and saw max engine temps of 188 going thru the hill in WV, thats bad *** with no fans!
I check the oil every time I leave my house (duh!)
Purge my motor every 2 or 3 weeks or right aftera track event (that I have not done since Jan)
change oil around 2K (I dont know why I just do)
DO a 4th gear pull once a week at all boost levels to confirm proper boost and A/F (becuase I dont look at my gauges when I drive fast)
I always look at my engine temp ALWAYS like 200 times on every drive (I don't why but I do).
Check all lines hoses for leaks, cracks, when changing oil.
I am sharing this cuz I might be doing something right, cuz I drive the car harder than anyone on this forum (guarantee), and its holding up like a champ. This is on eagle rods, pistons and S7 cams, with meth and high boost 19-20 psi. IMO this is all you need to support 700hp and some big turbos. Im doing it, so can you.
I will start another thread of some things "Modified Auto Design" did to make my car more street and track ready sometime this week, also some reviews and fixes a certain BOV I installed fixed.
Till then if you have any questions please feel free to PM me, I am always looking to help out the community.
Remember keep the motor simple and go big with the turbos, for big power!!
Luie
Originally Posted by eagletanggreen
Purge the engine for air, it builds up when you run the car hard at high boosts levels.
Originally Posted by Weqster
Why is air building up in the coolant system. Boost shouldnt leak through... And i dont really believe 10kmiles is long term...! Sorry. THink about it, thats probably $4k per mile so far....
edit: Oh and dont take my post as an attack. Ive had builds before and thought everything was hunky dorey, then something happens really premature and it changes your views quite quick.
edit: Oh and dont take my post as an attack. Ive had builds before and thought everything was hunky dorey, then something happens really premature and it changes your views quite quick.
Thanks
G
I believe Luie runs Evans NPG+ and it does not boil anywhere near 260° F (I believe boiling point is over 350° F at std atm pressure).
So if he is indeed getting air in the system, then it must be coming from some other mechanism. I know at one point, he did have a coolant leak - perhaps there is still a small leak somewhere that is allowing air to enter the system. Keep in mind that NPG+ does not pressurize like standard coolant, so even if you do have a leak, it will not spurt out, even when hot (but rather may just drip or dribble). I know this from first hand experience!
So if he is indeed getting air in the system, then it must be coming from some other mechanism. I know at one point, he did have a coolant leak - perhaps there is still a small leak somewhere that is allowing air to enter the system. Keep in mind that NPG+ does not pressurize like standard coolant, so even if you do have a leak, it will not spurt out, even when hot (but rather may just drip or dribble). I know this from first hand experience!
Last edited by rcdash; Apr 15, 2008 at 10:04 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,307
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC
Originally Posted by Weqster
Why is air building up in the coolant system. Boost shouldnt leak through... And i dont really believe 10kmiles is long term...! Sorry. THink about it, thats probably $4k per mile so far....
edit: Oh and dont take my post as an attack. Ive had builds before and thought everything was hunky dorey, then something happens really premature and it changes your views quite quick.
edit: Oh and dont take my post as an attack. Ive had builds before and thought everything was hunky dorey, then something happens really premature and it changes your views quite quick.
None taken brother I know how you guys down under like to run your cars, and I do agree 10K is really not a big deal, however given the conditions of how I have beating on the car, and many other builds/motors going before 10K (Yes we dont really hear of it but I do) I thought this was well deserved. . Once again thanks for input always welcome in my threads.
Luie
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,307
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC
Originally Posted by rcdash
Luie,
Any thoughts on eliminating the potential for methanol backfires?
Would love to see any pressure relief plates/valves installed. The Cosworth is a work of art - would hate to cut into that. Where else though? Have you thought about changing the W/M ratio?
Any thoughts on eliminating the potential for methanol backfires?
Would love to see any pressure relief plates/valves installed. The Cosworth is a work of art - would hate to cut into that. Where else though? Have you thought about changing the W/M ratio?
Yes its been resolve at the moment New thread in a day or two!
As far as air in the coolant ???? I don't know why this happens if I knew I would tell you guys but it does.
Also just about everyone that I know of with a sleeve motor as expierence head lift??? Why does this happen?
I don't know, but I will be the person to tell you not to sleeve your motor.
I have learned so much in the past 3 months about this car than I have in the past year, all thanks to Joe Kenefic. All the trouble shooting on my car / lessons learned are all his doing.
Last edited by eagletanggreen; Apr 15, 2008 at 10:26 AM.
The only thing I don't like about the Evans NPG+ is that since its oil based, if you do experience head lift, you wouldn't get the signed you would from traditional coolant (water in your oil, making it look like chocolate milk) because the oil based Evans NPG+ will just blend in.
Just my opinion
-George
GTM
Just my opinion
-George
GTM
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,307
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC
Originally Posted by Alberto
If people built motors correctly and did everything right headlift wouldnt be a problem some built guys had to worry about.
Its sucks for the guys on the other end, who end up paying big $$$$ for other peoples mistakes .
I've been on this forum a long time (Jan 03) and have learned a lot from this forum and peoples expeirances. In my opinion, if you have a high horse power car, or drive your car hard, you will eventually expierance some type of headlift - and you might not even realize it.
Why do you think you need 16 cylinders, 4 turbos, and a 1.2 million dollar price tag to make a car that has 1000hp and is still somewhat reliable? Nothing is bullet proof, and shouldn't be treated as so.
Also, just because your coolant won't boil over at 260degrees F, doesn't mean your engine should be running that hot, overheating is a classic method for blowing a head gasket.
Just my opinion BTW
-George
Why do you think you need 16 cylinders, 4 turbos, and a 1.2 million dollar price tag to make a car that has 1000hp and is still somewhat reliable? Nothing is bullet proof, and shouldn't be treated as so.
Also, just because your coolant won't boil over at 260degrees F, doesn't mean your engine should be running that hot, overheating is a classic method for blowing a head gasket.
Just my opinion BTW
-George
Originally Posted by George@GTM
I've been on this forum a long time (Jan 03) and have learned a lot from this forum and peoples expeirances. In my opinion, if you have a high horse power car, or drive your car hard, you will eventually expierance some type of headlift - and you might not even realize it.
Also, just because your coolant won't boil over at 260degrees F, doesn't mean your engine should be running that hot, overheating is a classic method for blowing a head gasket.
Just my opinion BTW
-George
Also, just because your coolant won't boil over at 260degrees F, doesn't mean your engine should be running that hot, overheating is a classic method for blowing a head gasket.
Just my opinion BTW
-George
Do you tell the customers you sell the 1000whp blocks to that if they drive hard their motor will headlift at some point? I never read that in all the propoganda?
When the time comes I'll share my experiences, nobody can make excuses on that.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,307
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC
Originally Posted by iStan
...I'm extremely interested in what you have to say.. Keep us updated
Everyone just cant wait to get some drama going.
If only CBS knew about the drama that goes on here, we would be a hit on TV
+1 It was getting boring with out drama lol
I never mentioned GTM as well, and I have no clue what you are talking about, I was just saying why I don't use Evans coolant, My bad for trying to share some knowledge with the community - I should probably go back to only posting up customers projects other than trying to help the board members
I never mentioned GTM as well, and I have no clue what you are talking about, I was just saying why I don't use Evans coolant, My bad for trying to share some knowledge with the community - I should probably go back to only posting up customers projects other than trying to help the board members