ok guys i been chillin in the cut and watching all these posts for about the last 2-3 weeks....my ATI should be on and running tomorrow...ill post dyno numbers and wutever else i have....btw ati sent me the wrong size fuel line fitting but they overnited me the correct part ...so thanks ATI.....i also have a RSR exmag 2 and a now useless AEM CAI ....hopefully ill dyno some good numbers for you guys..WOOHOOO my rims are coming next friday and my vertical doors should be done that same day!!!

 

Has anyone run a car with this kit on it at the track yet?

 

I thought correct A/F ratio was to stay between 12.4 and 13.4. Someone here posted 11.5 to 12. I was told that 12.3 was too rich, and 13.5 was too Lean, so 11.5 to 12 would be way rich. My car is running great with the A/F between 12.8 and 13.3. Any other opinions on this ?

 

On a typical NA motor you target air/fuel ratio is 12.8-13.0. Depending on your combination the air/fuel can vary + or - .3. Compression, heat range of plug, gap settings, specific gravity & octane rating of fuel & are just a few things that play as variables when finding optimum air/fuel ratio. This is why it is best done on a dyno so you can see how a change effects the power. On a supercharged car you are compressing air which means your cylinder temperature will rise and since, your air/fuel ratio needs to be richer to keep it from detonating. Hope this answers your question.

 

Always interesting to hear both sides of the story.

 

Mine dipped to 12.4, I saw it. Address the Dyno issue me signing a waiver after you performed them and the 23 Dyno's. Explain whay you called me yesterday aon my cell phoe while I was leaving Nissan and YOU said the manual was wrong but that didn't matter because you didn't go by the incorrect manual so you were covered. Explain why ATI then calls you for an extended time and then you 180 and your secratary says " Kieth (the owner) didn't do the install Billy did (the mechanic) I saw him so it doesn't matter what Billy says. Explain why you haven't offered to fix my car after I now have Nissan and Brandon saying the engine is fine. It was fine when I gave it to you too. The line you vented was incorrect you left it on there without hose clamps and call me and say they probably shook loose or something? Say anything you want but you will be hard pressed to discredit Brandon who has grown up his whole life at the track and me who has been honest here since day 1. All I remember you saying was foir you to push the plug word out to others because you bought 60 of them. Good luck on your Z installs. If you can't fix just the one you did *wrong* why would anyone take their car there? And your attitude shows, there is no "I'm sorry Max I'll take a look at it, just more back lash and finger pointing and calling me a liar. Does that sound like someone who wants to help? Explain why you told me the pulley's were free and then charged me for them? Explain why you wanted 3 hours labor to clean the cai etc from oil you caused (I have pictures) better yet explain it to the Beruea of Automotive Repair bud. A pic is worth a thousand words and you have the lines wrong in the pic.

 

That should read dipped to 11.4, (on the Dyno) also explain why the ATI Rep said it was Doug's Plenum possible cracked why he and you worked out your story then you come here and post. Look who started this thread bud, me.
I wanted a good SC, I went to aa jacked upo immoral place with a rude secratary who even called you an ******* to me on the phone and you have one mechanic who now says he used the manual you told me was wrong. I think it is you who are lying to cover your butt bud.

 

Ill upload some pics and I have emails to. I never said Craig installed it on his car but I did find an email saying I had been witing for 3 days for you to return my call!

Bottom line is this kit has incorrect hosing, the manual is wrong in places and my engine is fine and neither you or ATI will man up to it about the hosing or the manual we found pieces of cut hoses in the friggen bumper (took pics) the inside of the bumper is COATED with oil. You left my air filter laying there w/o being hooked up and sent me packing. If you go there (to anyone) it sounds like you will need to camcaorder the whole install (so bring a sleeping bag it takes a weak) bring food, water and a witness or else be in the boat I am in.

 

Paul you have clearly lied and you know it. I can tell you this I have also been around high perfromance vehicles all my life and have been working on them for over 15 years. I have much more experience at this line of work than either of you. This is by No means discreating Brandon as he seems to have good knowledge of cars and is eager to help anyone who needs a helping hand. As I clearly stated in one of my previuos posts that I was willing to help you if the lies stop. I told you the 3 hours of labor was an estimate to pull the blower & bracket out of the car so we could install the new pulleys for your increase in boost. I also said that while we had it apart we would clean the oil out of the innercooler & ducting system, is there any mention of charging for this, NO. We were doing this to try and help you get the car running properly. You are saying that the PCV hose was routed wrong but yesterday when we talked to Crawford WHO YOU WANTED US TO CALL, we confirmed that it was done right. As I have always said, we were going to research the issue (blowing oil out of the crankcase) so it could be fixed then we would proceed to install the pulleys and retune for the increase in boost. I believe when you state the hos ewas routed wrong that you are in reference to the by-pass. The by-pass can be dumped back into the inlet side of the blower or dumped to atmosphere if the air has not been metered by the mas air flow sensor.
You can keep being a jerk or bring the car by so we can do as I have stated over & over. We (meaning you & I)ere waiting to do the work until after we confirmed that there was no internal damage done to the motor and after we had a chance to talk with ProCharger about what would be causing your problem. It is just odd that the car ran fine here on the dyno with you present and didn't have any issues for several days. The choice is yours.
I am confussed as to why you said that I never liked you? I never knew you prior to doing the install on your car. Since you were a friend of Brandons and we like Brandon it was in my best interest to do you right. I get no fringe benefits or gratitude by having an unhappy customer. Since this was the first Z install we have no choice but to go by the manual and this is what we used. There are kits that we do alot of and do not need the manual for, this was not one of them. On certain cars we do things a little differnt than the instructions may say, but that is because we feel certain things may fit better or look cleaner. Not because the way they show will not wrok. I never said that anything in the instructions of the 350Z kit were wrong. You told me that there were things that were wrong. I asked you what and how you know. You stated that Crawford told you this, this is why we called him when you were here. If you want us to proceed to get the car runing properly again all you have to do is let us know. We have NEVER told you we would not help.

 

FFP, ATI and I are now working together to resolve the issue!
There has been some misunderstandings on labor charges that have been resolved to my satisfaction.

 

Three hours to install new pulleys on board that bracket??? Ehh?

With as much work as you've given them, I figured they'd be more gracious.

 

Max,

I've been meaning to ask you, are these them same cats that installed your strut tower brace wrong... because they also didn't read the instructions?

Or are you just lucking out, and finding multiple people whom can't seem to work right?

 

Keith the owner clarified that the labor was just for the pulley's not any any of the crancase issues they needed to figure out what the problems.

 

After all of this i've been examining my kit to discover what could have possibly happened here......is there a possibility that the surge valve works the best oriented in a certain direction?.....from what i've seen it could go one of two possible ways......could this be a factor?

 

No all the work done on the car prior to us installing the ProCharger was done by someone else. We only installed the ProCharger, headers & cat-back.

 

The surge valve i'm looking at is part of the bypass of the
Procharger system......it has a butterfly inside it and looks like it could have problems if not oriented correctly

 

I believe Keith was referring to the strut bar question, E_J.

Paul,
I hope things get worked out for you soon. We've all been eagerly following this thread because you were one of the first to jump out there with the Procharger kit. I, for one, know the risk with being the first to do something and how frustrating it is to have to wait while someone (FFP in this case) seemingly is jerking you around. I hope it is just a case of they were trying to get all the facts straight and you were getting a little impatient because you want the SC on and working asap. Keep us posted as you have thus far.

And thanks for being one of guinea pigs on the SC install!

 

I'm keeping my feelings off the board. My goal and I am sure FFP's and ATI's is to have my car cooking down the track. So we share the same goal we just were not on the same page. He is taking the car back after I confirmed no engine problems and I am just waiting for a ride to follow me there, then hopefully we will have a low 12 soon. Till then I am not saying anymore it just creates misunderstandings.

 

I didn't get any print outs just the graph that is not a lie, let's chill on the lying stuff ok? I have backed off so let's try and create peace, I am not here to lie about anything just get my car fixed.

 

I assume MAXHAX's name is Paul, because everytime FFP addresses max they call him Paul, which is my name.