JonnyC's Vortech Build & Tune Thread
05-18-2008, 07:55 PM
#1
JonnyC's Vortech Build & Tune Thread
Well, I finally feel safe posting up some pics and info on my Vortech install and tune. I was nervous that doing so would jinx me, but everything seems solid so far minus one issue. Hopefully this thread will be helpful for anyone looking to go the DIY route.
I have an '03 Performance Z, and have been dreaming about boost for a long time. Was originally going to go with an IS300, but realized F/I is way too expensive and troublesome on that (crappy trannies). So I bought a used 350, with plans on going with the TN ST kit. After doing a bunch of research, I decided that a) scared of over-boost b) scared of reflash c) scared of low RPM torque on the stock rods d) not ready to try a self tune on a turbo, so I chose the Vortech kit.
Existing Engine/Breathing Mods
Used Vortech Tuner Kit...
The kit came with a 2.87 and 3.12 pulley, but I sold the 2.87 and picked up a 3.33. You're probably wondering why I went with the unproven Si-trim, but it was the same price as a used SC trim blower. And since I'll be running the 3.33 pulley, there should be less wear (not spun as fast) and should provide a little beefier power curve (we'll see).
I replaced some of the parts that came with it (filter, belts, charge pipe that had hole for nitrous, intercooler bracket, feed line fittings, oil return line kit, silicon couplings, hose clamps, etc.). All of this stuff adds up :-/
Other Parts Purchased...
Exhaust
Install
I did this over many weekends, probably for a good three months maybe. I had to wait on my HFC's to be fixed, so there was a lot of downtime. I did it in my small garage with 4 jack stands and a creeper on a crappy concrete floor (man it's frustrating). Some days it was so cold that it was hard to touch a wrench, and there were plenty of days when I wanted to punch a fist through my windows.
Wiring + UTEC Install
First I started with the wiring. I knew this would probably be the biggest pain in the ***, so I wanted to get it out of the way. I picked up a bunch of different color/gauge wire, soldering gun, and a bunch of heat shrink tubing. I tried to do all soldering I could outside of the car, since I suck at it.
Man this was messy
Instead of running the wires for the gauge sensors and wideband through the normal grommet, I decided to go just above that. There's a little pocket, that when drilled through (existing small hole on top) the wires can go through a oval shaped plastic grommet thing from the inside. This was a total pain, but it seemed to have worked out. Seems like a less chance of getting water through as well, which is why I did it this way.
Wires coming through with grommet removed (drilled hole in it and fed through in the end)
The UTEC I got was kind of jacked up. The mounting bolts were sheered off and I couldn't even get the studs out. So I had to basically let it hang up there, and mount it a little differently. Took me forever to find a somewhat alright way to do it.
I mounted the map selector next to the VDC switch. However, if i did it again, I would have extended the wiring. I ran it basically straight over to the UTEC, and it's very tight. The wire actually goes behind my cupholder on the passenger side and won't budge. I had to hammer on the thing to get it closed...and now it won't open again
The LC-1 wiring was a bit of a pain, due to the LED and switch. Just a bunch of wires everywhere. I decided to mount the LED and switch on the bottom right corner of the passenger side dash. Accessible, but out of the way so it's clean.
Pillar pod was pretty easy to install. Just yanked out the stock pillar cover by pulling at the top first. Then on the workbench I fit the Autometer pod over the stock pillar and drilled 3 holes (4th is overkill), along with a nice size hole in the stock pillar to feed the wiring through.
I mounted the switch for the STRI boost gauge right next to the hood latch lever so it's out of the way but accessible.
Then I just mounted the other two gauges on the dash using the supplied gauge mounts with double sided tape included. Debated on where to put them, but I think this worked out.
Yeah, my boost gauge is off :-/
Vortech Kit
Next came actually installing the Vortech kit. First up was the return line. After debating with myself, I decided to just tap the upper pan like the instructions say. I considered tapping my oil pan spacer, but I decided just to go the safe route. I picked up a 3/8" NPT tap, and had to buy the return line kit to get the cutting bit and arbor to drill the pan. It was actually much easier than I thought. Just be sure to have the oil pan off so shavings don't get stuck in there. As you can see, I had remove the sway bar and bracket, and bend the hard coolant line down in order to fit a normal size drill in there (don't need a right-angle drill).
I decided to go a different route for the feed line. Since my used kit didn't come with the t-fitting, and I needed to get a sandwich plate for my oil temp sensor, I just decided to run it out of there.
After I installed the up-pipe and MAF tube, I attached the bolts and spacers with some RTV to the supercharger bracket to hold them in place, bolted up the blower, and dropped everything in. Once it was bolted up, I had to install the oil feed and return lines. This was probably the biggest pain in the ***. I decided the best way to route the return hose was down around the passenger side of the up-pipe, next to the rubber a/c line and down to the fitting on the upper pan. I zip tied it and the a/c line against the up-pipe since it is very close to the a/c pulley. Now my kit came with an extended hose, which worked out great. The stock one is just so short. But after trying for what seemed like forever, I was finally able to get the hose hooked up to the fitter on the blower going in through the wheel well.
If I did it again, would would attach the drain hose to the blower before dropping it in, then route it under the a/c hard line and behind (driver's side) of the up-pipe when someone else drops the blower + bracket in.
The feed line just hooked right up, and I zip tied it somewhere down there just to keep it from moving. On both sides of the cog belt I moved and zip tied back the wiring. The belt/pulleys are so close it's amazing. I had to cut the plastic body harness loom holder thing and zip tie back the wires so they wouldn't get trashed.
After the blower was all in there I installed all of the charge pipes and intercooler. I just followed Vortech's instructions and it worked out great. I pointed the by-pass valve towards the passenger side, since it seemed to make the most sense (air is moving towards the passenger side, should be easier to exit in that direction). Everything fits pretty tight, and the hardest pipe to get in was the one that comes out of the blower. I just had to force it past a couple of the pulleys. I left the plastic pieces off both the left and right side, since I seemed to have lost one somehow, and I didn't feel like drilling holes in them for the charge pipes. The bad thing is that stones and water will get in there during hard turns, but it should be fine.
And here it is all done...
I have an '03 Performance Z, and have been dreaming about boost for a long time. Was originally going to go with an IS300, but realized F/I is way too expensive and troublesome on that (crappy trannies). So I bought a used 350, with plans on going with the TN ST kit. After doing a bunch of research, I decided that a) scared of over-boost b) scared of reflash c) scared of low RPM torque on the stock rods d) not ready to try a self tune on a turbo, so I chose the Vortech kit.
Existing Engine/Breathing Mods
- Motordyne spacer
- Nismo exhaust, Stillen y-pipe
Used Vortech Tuner Kit...
- Si-trim upgrade, with ~500 miles on the blower
- UTEC w/ MAP sensor and map selector switch
- RC 650cc injectors, already installed in stock fuel rail
The kit came with a 2.87 and 3.12 pulley, but I sold the 2.87 and picked up a 3.33. You're probably wondering why I went with the unproven Si-trim, but it was the same price as a used SC trim blower. And since I'll be running the 3.33 pulley, there should be less wear (not spun as fast) and should provide a little beefier power curve (we'll see).
I replaced some of the parts that came with it (filter, belts, charge pipe that had hole for nitrous, intercooler bracket, feed line fittings, oil return line kit, silicon couplings, hose clamps, etc.). All of this stuff adds up :-/
Other Parts Purchased...
Exhaust
- Berk HFC's - wanted better breathing, and thought I might as well so I wouldn't have to weld an O2 bung on the stock cats
- TurboXS Exhaust - was way too loud, so I went back to my Nismo
- Innovate LC-1 Wideband w/ DB Gauge
- STRI Amber (more like red) DSD Slim Boost, Fuel Pressure, Oil Temp gauges
- Autometer full dual gauge pillar pod
- Walbro 255
- AAM fuel pressure adapter block (although branded as Dynotune)
- One step colder NGK plugs
- JWT oil pan spacer (safer, and more cooling)
- UR Lightweight pulleys (stock size, my crank pulley was way rusted)
Install
I did this over many weekends, probably for a good three months maybe. I had to wait on my HFC's to be fixed, so there was a lot of downtime. I did it in my small garage with 4 jack stands and a creeper on a crappy concrete floor (man it's frustrating). Some days it was so cold that it was hard to touch a wrench, and there were plenty of days when I wanted to punch a fist through my windows.
Wiring + UTEC Install
First I started with the wiring. I knew this would probably be the biggest pain in the ***, so I wanted to get it out of the way. I picked up a bunch of different color/gauge wire, soldering gun, and a bunch of heat shrink tubing. I tried to do all soldering I could outside of the car, since I suck at it.
Man this was messy
Instead of running the wires for the gauge sensors and wideband through the normal grommet, I decided to go just above that. There's a little pocket, that when drilled through (existing small hole on top) the wires can go through a oval shaped plastic grommet thing from the inside. This was a total pain, but it seemed to have worked out. Seems like a less chance of getting water through as well, which is why I did it this way.
Wires coming through with grommet removed (drilled hole in it and fed through in the end)
The UTEC I got was kind of jacked up. The mounting bolts were sheered off and I couldn't even get the studs out. So I had to basically let it hang up there, and mount it a little differently. Took me forever to find a somewhat alright way to do it.
I mounted the map selector next to the VDC switch. However, if i did it again, I would have extended the wiring. I ran it basically straight over to the UTEC, and it's very tight. The wire actually goes behind my cupholder on the passenger side and won't budge. I had to hammer on the thing to get it closed...and now it won't open again
The LC-1 wiring was a bit of a pain, due to the LED and switch. Just a bunch of wires everywhere. I decided to mount the LED and switch on the bottom right corner of the passenger side dash. Accessible, but out of the way so it's clean.
Pillar pod was pretty easy to install. Just yanked out the stock pillar cover by pulling at the top first. Then on the workbench I fit the Autometer pod over the stock pillar and drilled 3 holes (4th is overkill), along with a nice size hole in the stock pillar to feed the wiring through.
I mounted the switch for the STRI boost gauge right next to the hood latch lever so it's out of the way but accessible.
Then I just mounted the other two gauges on the dash using the supplied gauge mounts with double sided tape included. Debated on where to put them, but I think this worked out.
Yeah, my boost gauge is off :-/
Vortech Kit
Next came actually installing the Vortech kit. First up was the return line. After debating with myself, I decided to just tap the upper pan like the instructions say. I considered tapping my oil pan spacer, but I decided just to go the safe route. I picked up a 3/8" NPT tap, and had to buy the return line kit to get the cutting bit and arbor to drill the pan. It was actually much easier than I thought. Just be sure to have the oil pan off so shavings don't get stuck in there. As you can see, I had remove the sway bar and bracket, and bend the hard coolant line down in order to fit a normal size drill in there (don't need a right-angle drill).
I decided to go a different route for the feed line. Since my used kit didn't come with the t-fitting, and I needed to get a sandwich plate for my oil temp sensor, I just decided to run it out of there.
After I installed the up-pipe and MAF tube, I attached the bolts and spacers with some RTV to the supercharger bracket to hold them in place, bolted up the blower, and dropped everything in. Once it was bolted up, I had to install the oil feed and return lines. This was probably the biggest pain in the ***. I decided the best way to route the return hose was down around the passenger side of the up-pipe, next to the rubber a/c line and down to the fitting on the upper pan. I zip tied it and the a/c line against the up-pipe since it is very close to the a/c pulley. Now my kit came with an extended hose, which worked out great. The stock one is just so short. But after trying for what seemed like forever, I was finally able to get the hose hooked up to the fitter on the blower going in through the wheel well.
If I did it again, would would attach the drain hose to the blower before dropping it in, then route it under the a/c hard line and behind (driver's side) of the up-pipe when someone else drops the blower + bracket in.
The feed line just hooked right up, and I zip tied it somewhere down there just to keep it from moving. On both sides of the cog belt I moved and zip tied back the wiring. The belt/pulleys are so close it's amazing. I had to cut the plastic body harness loom holder thing and zip tie back the wires so they wouldn't get trashed.
After the blower was all in there I installed all of the charge pipes and intercooler. I just followed Vortech's instructions and it worked out great. I pointed the by-pass valve towards the passenger side, since it seemed to make the most sense (air is moving towards the passenger side, should be easier to exit in that direction). Everything fits pretty tight, and the hardest pipe to get in was the one that comes out of the blower. I just had to force it past a couple of the pulleys. I left the plastic pieces off both the left and right side, since I seemed to have lost one somehow, and I didn't feel like drilling holes in them for the charge pipes. The bad thing is that stones and water will get in there during hard turns, but it should be fine.
And here it is all done...
Last edited by JonnyC; 05-18-2008 at 08:05 PM.
05-18-2008, 07:55 PM
#2
I'm missing a bunch of steps and info!. There is a bunch of stuff I left out about the install, including the Walbro install, injector install, etc. I planned on having a nice step-by-step guide, but man it takes forever to type this crap up!!
Any questions please ask!
A lot of blood and sweat (almost some tears) went into this, and so far it seems well worth it. It's really great doing things yourself so that you know how to fix it, but I also think "oh crap, did i do this right?" There are some things that I wish I did better, and some things that I'm nervous about (oil return line), and I wouldn't be nervous about it if I had a good shop install it. However, I did save a nice chunk of change.
In the end though, I have devoted so much time to purchasing parts, researching pretty much everything, and spending a bunch of time with a wrench in my hand, that if I took that time to do some side work, I could have paid for the entire kit and install. But this is called a hobby for a reason - it's supposed to drain your bank account, not make it bigger.
Oh, as for the total $$$ invested: it's somewhere between $5,500 and $6,000, not including the TurboXS exhaust that I need to sell now. I had a nice Google spreadsheet going to keep track of it all...but I just gave up.
Issues Experienced
Nothing huge happened so far. Didn't blow a coupling loose, have the return line kink, or anything real major.
However, I'm trying to diagnose a sound coming from the blower or pulleys
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/359135-weird-issue-with-vortech-please-watch-video.html
My Innovate LC-1 is also acting up, so I'll have to send it back. It seems like 1 out of every 10 starts or so it will lose it's calibration, so I have to shut the motor off while running to cycle air through, disconnect the O2 sensor, turn the car on, turn it off, plug it back in, turn the car on and recalibrate, then fire it up. It has also gotten "stuck" a few times, where it gets stuck at 15.0 or something.
Videos (will get updated hopefully)
Crappy pull during a cruise - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97ibEQXX7l0
Hitting a pothole trying to get a clip of my TurboXS exhaust - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxG_XACBvog
Here's some pictures I took after having the car up and running for about a week.
Oh, and here are my headlights that I had painted over the winter by http://www.lightwerkz.net/
Any questions please ask!
A lot of blood and sweat (almost some tears) went into this, and so far it seems well worth it. It's really great doing things yourself so that you know how to fix it, but I also think "oh crap, did i do this right?" There are some things that I wish I did better, and some things that I'm nervous about (oil return line), and I wouldn't be nervous about it if I had a good shop install it. However, I did save a nice chunk of change.
In the end though, I have devoted so much time to purchasing parts, researching pretty much everything, and spending a bunch of time with a wrench in my hand, that if I took that time to do some side work, I could have paid for the entire kit and install. But this is called a hobby for a reason - it's supposed to drain your bank account, not make it bigger.
Oh, as for the total $$$ invested: it's somewhere between $5,500 and $6,000, not including the TurboXS exhaust that I need to sell now. I had a nice Google spreadsheet going to keep track of it all...but I just gave up.
Issues Experienced
Nothing huge happened so far. Didn't blow a coupling loose, have the return line kink, or anything real major.
However, I'm trying to diagnose a sound coming from the blower or pulleys
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/359135-weird-issue-with-vortech-please-watch-video.html
My Innovate LC-1 is also acting up, so I'll have to send it back. It seems like 1 out of every 10 starts or so it will lose it's calibration, so I have to shut the motor off while running to cycle air through, disconnect the O2 sensor, turn the car on, turn it off, plug it back in, turn the car on and recalibrate, then fire it up. It has also gotten "stuck" a few times, where it gets stuck at 15.0 or something.
Videos (will get updated hopefully)
Crappy pull during a cruise - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97ibEQXX7l0
Hitting a pothole trying to get a clip of my TurboXS exhaust - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxG_XACBvog
Here's some pictures I took after having the car up and running for about a week.
Oh, and here are my headlights that I had painted over the winter by http://www.lightwerkz.net/
Last edited by JonnyC; 05-18-2008 at 08:35 PM.
05-18-2008, 08:27 PM
#6
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Great Job and write up with good pic's, You should put this in the DIY section if you haven't already. Glad to hear you got her tuned. Now get that baby on a Dyno and lets see some #'s
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05-18-2008, 09:05 PM
#11
Thanks guys! I'm going to post up info on how I went about the tuning process (still a work in progress) in case people are wondering about that. I'm exhausted though...so that might take a few days.
Yeah, i just took everything out of the interior that I could
It really helped to have the passenger seat out of there for the fuel pump install and all of the wiring.
Yeah, i just took everything out of the interior that I could
It really helped to have the passenger seat out of there for the fuel pump install and all of the wiring.
05-18-2008, 10:00 PM
#12
Badazz
I have a vortech kit i brought a few weeks ago and I keep hyping myself up to want to install the it but never get around to doing it. I'm buying and scrapping parts together such as autometer nexus gauges, kinteix ssv, oil cooler, oil pan spacer, ngk 1 step colder spark plugs, 550 injectors etc. I waiting for all my parts to get in since its summer time and I can ride my bike around while i'm twisting wrenches. I can totally agree with you doing this all yourself saved mad bucks in the end. I'm going to be hitting you up for some pointers. Subscribing!!!!
-Jon
-Jon
05-19-2008, 02:00 AM
#14
Great job bro!!
I was thinking that maybe the issue with the blower would for some reason have to do with the oil supply from where you have it coming from. I don't see why that would be an issue but it is the one thing that is different from the norm.
I was thinking that maybe the issue with the blower would for some reason have to do with the oil supply from where you have it coming from. I don't see why that would be an issue but it is the one thing that is different from the norm.
05-19-2008, 06:27 AM
#15
Originally Posted by Quamen
I was thinking that maybe the issue with the blower would for some reason have to do with the oil supply from where you have it coming from. I don't see why that would be an issue but it is the one thing that is different from the norm.
I don't see how it could be any different though, but I planned on pulling out the oil sprayer from the blower and testing it out this Saturday, and completely forgot to get around to it. Not sure why anything would change as things heat up, unless overall the blower isn't getting enough oil. I'm seeing 60+ psi of oil pressure at all times though...so I don't know.I guess I'll have to check out that oil nozzle...
This is frustrating
05-19-2008, 06:28 AM
#16
Originally Posted by sajazzman007
I have a vortech kit i brought a few weeks ago and I keep hyping myself up to want to install the it but never get around to doing it. I'm buying and scrapping parts together such as autometer nexus gauges, kinteix ssv, oil cooler, oil pan spacer, ngk 1 step colder spark plugs, 550 injectors etc. I waiting for all my parts to get in since its summer time and I can ride my bike around while i'm twisting wrenches. I can totally agree with you doing this all yourself saved mad bucks in the end. I'm going to be hitting you up for some pointers. Subscribing!!!!
-Jon
-Jon
05-19-2008, 06:48 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by JonnyC
Do it! Unless you have the money for an install...to give you piece of mind and someone to blame. But let me know if you have any questions!
lol... Great Job! I wish we have that kind of long empty space in NYC to drive hard without getting pulled over by the popo.
05-19-2008, 03:08 PM
#18
Very nice wright up jonny and nothing makes it better then doing it yourself.But if you think your install was a pita just try installing the greddy twins with the engine in the car............................................never ever again nor will help anybody do it either.
05-19-2008, 04:14 PM
#19
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I would say if you are not getting enough oil to the unit you would have already worn out the bearings in the blower.I would check just to be sure though.The Procharger only needs 2.5 ounces of there oil to keep her lubed.
05-19-2008, 05:14 PM
#20
Originally Posted by superchargedg
Very nice wright up jonny and nothing makes it better then doing it yourself.But if you think your install was a pita just try installing the greddy twins with the engine in the car............................................never ever again nor will help anybody do it either.