Got a problem!!! My freshly built Z is overheating and spewing antifreeze
Good luck finding the source of the problem, even though I have my suspicions, mine was never found....blah
Not very confidence inspiring when building another motor and you don't know what came first the chicken or the egg.
Not very confidence inspiring when building another motor and you don't know what came first the chicken or the egg.
Ok, what about this theory - I postulate this only because I propose a solution also. My belief is that localized steam pockets at the cylinder wall / head gasket / coolant channel interface may cause momentary formation of air channels between the combustion chamber and the coolant. The process essentially compresses the gasket and allows the escape of high pressure combustion gases in the absence of head or block deformation.
You guys know I like Evans NPG+. I think it may solve a small HG leak issue if the theory above is sound, for 2 reasons.
1. It is heralded for its ability to prevent localized hot spots due to nucleate boiling.
2. It does not pressurize the coolant system as much and has much less chance of forcing open a channel to the combustion chamber.
I think its worth a shot to switch out to Evans and see if the problem can be reproduced. I know some don't advocate it, but I would try it if it were my car. It may already be too late because of damage to the headgasket where it has been burned by combustion gases, but still I think there's a good chance for this to work.
You guys know I like Evans NPG+. I think it may solve a small HG leak issue if the theory above is sound, for 2 reasons.
1. It is heralded for its ability to prevent localized hot spots due to nucleate boiling.
2. It does not pressurize the coolant system as much and has much less chance of forcing open a channel to the combustion chamber.
I think its worth a shot to switch out to Evans and see if the problem can be reproduced. I know some don't advocate it, but I would try it if it were my car. It may already be too late because of damage to the headgasket where it has been burned by combustion gases, but still I think there's a good chance for this to work.
Last edited by rcdash; Aug 12, 2008 at 06:19 AM.
Originally Posted by rcdash
Ok, what about this theory - I postulate this only because I propose a solution also. My belief is that localized steam pockets at the cylinder wall / head gasket / coolant channel interface may cause momentary formation of air channels between the combustion chamber and the coolant. The process essentially compresses the gasket and allows the escape of high pressure combustion gases in the absence of head or block deformation.
You guys know I like Evans NPG+. I think it may solve a small HG leak issue if the theory above is sound, for 2 reasons.
1. It is heralded for its ability to prevent localized hot spots due to nucleate boiling.
2. It does not pressurize the coolant system and has much less chance of forcing open a channel to the combustion chamber.
I think its worth a shot to switch out to Evans and see if the problem can be reproduced. I know some don't advocate it, but I would try it if it were my car. It may already be too late because of damage to the headgasket where it has been burned by combustion gases, but still I think there's a good chance for this to work.
You guys know I like Evans NPG+. I think it may solve a small HG leak issue if the theory above is sound, for 2 reasons.
1. It is heralded for its ability to prevent localized hot spots due to nucleate boiling.
2. It does not pressurize the coolant system and has much less chance of forcing open a channel to the combustion chamber.
I think its worth a shot to switch out to Evans and see if the problem can be reproduced. I know some don't advocate it, but I would try it if it were my car. It may already be too late because of damage to the headgasket where it has been burned by combustion gases, but still I think there's a good chance for this to work.
I wasted easily that much when mine went south
by the way the system still pressurizes with Evans coolant
We will know in a few days. I will keep everyone posted:
Side note*
If anyone has a trailer that I can pull the car to Forged, give me a PM. North GA area, also, I hate the UHAUL.
Side note*
If anyone has a trailer that I can pull the car to Forged, give me a PM. North GA area, also, I hate the UHAUL.
Originally Posted by rcdash
Ok, what about this theory - I postulate this only because I propose a solution also. My belief is that localized steam pockets at the cylinder wall / head gasket / coolant channel interface may cause momentary formation of air channels between the combustion chamber and the coolant. The process essentially compresses the gasket and allows the escape of high pressure combustion gases in the absence of head or block deformation.
You guys know I like Evans NPG+. I think it may solve a small HG leak issue if the theory above is sound, for 2 reasons.
1. It is heralded for its ability to prevent localized hot spots due to nucleate boiling.
2. It does not pressurize the coolant system and has much less chance of forcing open a channel to the combustion chamber.
I think its worth a shot to switch out to Evans and see if the problem can be reproduced. I know some don't advocate it, but I would try it if it were my car. It may already be too late because of damage to the headgasket where it has been burned by combustion gases, but still I think there's a good chance for this to work.
You guys know I like Evans NPG+. I think it may solve a small HG leak issue if the theory above is sound, for 2 reasons.
1. It is heralded for its ability to prevent localized hot spots due to nucleate boiling.
2. It does not pressurize the coolant system and has much less chance of forcing open a channel to the combustion chamber.
I think its worth a shot to switch out to Evans and see if the problem can be reproduced. I know some don't advocate it, but I would try it if it were my car. It may already be too late because of damage to the headgasket where it has been burned by combustion gases, but still I think there's a good chance for this to work.
water cirulates very, very quickly in a coolant system and there is quite a lot of it. I can't see how 'localized hot spots' could even develop, even if the car is sitting still. As good as Evans stuff is (I'm aware of it...I don't use it, but I've heard good things), that sounds like marketing to me
Originally Posted by westpak
dude changing to Evans is not going to do jack other than waste 100+ bucks and time
I wasted easily that much when mine went south
by the way the system still pressurizes with Evans coolant
I wasted easily that much when mine went south
by the way the system still pressurizes with Evans coolant
no water = no water vapor = no steam pockets
Supposedly it operates at under 5 psi. It was just a thought. You tried it and it didn't work? Did you do the flush first to get rid of all the water?The only first hand experience I can relate is that I have run the car with no clamping force on one of the main coolant hoses (under the fuel rails). It drove several hundred miles before it started dripping, slowly... No spewing at all - very hard to find. I finally found that the band clamp hadn't been tightened down at all - freely spinning around the hose.
Last edited by rcdash; Aug 12, 2008 at 06:05 AM.
it might operate at under 5 psi (ie it doesn't need pressure), but unless you run without a radiator cap...then it pressurizes, no two ways about it. Big difference between not pressurizing and not needing pressure. Like I said, marketing 
The car should operate just fine with just 100% plain 'old tap water. At most, distilled water is preferred only because it is said to be free of contaminents. Aside from that, a coolant system is very, very simple, and the moment you have to start introducing additives into the equation just to get it to operate normally, you have a problem

The car should operate just fine with just 100% plain 'old tap water. At most, distilled water is preferred only because it is said to be free of contaminents. Aside from that, a coolant system is very, very simple, and the moment you have to start introducing additives into the equation just to get it to operate normally, you have a problem
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
it might operate at under 5 psi (ie it doesn't need pressure), but unless you run without a radiator cap...then it pressurizes, no two ways about it. Big difference between not pressurizing and not needing pressure. Like I said, marketing 
The car should operate just fine with just 100% plain 'old tap water. At most, distilled water is preferred only because it is said to be free of contaminents. Aside from that, a coolant system is very, very simple, and the moment you have to start introducing additives into the equation just to get it to operate normally, you have a problem

The car should operate just fine with just 100% plain 'old tap water. At most, distilled water is preferred only because it is said to be free of contaminents. Aside from that, a coolant system is very, very simple, and the moment you have to start introducing additives into the equation just to get it to operate normally, you have a problem
Originally Posted by rcdash
no water = no water vapor = no steam pockets
Supposedly it operates at under 5 psi. It was just a thought. You tried it and it didn't work? Did you do the flush first to get rid of all the water?
The only first hand experience I can relate is that I have run the car with no clamping force on one of the main coolant hoses (under the fuel rails). It drove several hundred miles before it started dripping, slowly... No spewing at all - very hard to find. I finally found that the band clamp hadn't been tightened down at all - freely spinning around the hose.
Supposedly it operates at under 5 psi. It was just a thought. You tried it and it didn't work? Did you do the flush first to get rid of all the water?The only first hand experience I can relate is that I have run the car with no clamping force on one of the main coolant hoses (under the fuel rails). It drove several hundred miles before it started dripping, slowly... No spewing at all - very hard to find. I finally found that the band clamp hadn't been tightened down at all - freely spinning around the hose.
yes I flushed the system before putting Evans but Evans had nothing to do with the failure so I don't blame it but after wasting all of that money I decided not to do it again
Evans definately works guys...absolutely no question about it. The super high boiling point, in itself, is reason enough to use it.
But like Westpak said, switching to Evan's right now, is very much like closing the barn door after the horse ran out.
But like Westpak said, switching to Evan's right now, is very much like closing the barn door after the horse ran out.
now that we're off topic, I'll ask: what good does a super high boiling point serve in the realm of engine coolant? For engines that have a higher thermal capacity, I certainly can understand . But we've got aluminum everything...it simply can't sustain temps much above the normal range of your typical coolant/water mix in the first place
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
now that we're off topic, I'll ask: what good does a super high boiling point serve in the realm of engine coolant? For engines that have a higher thermal capacity, I certainly can understand . But we've got aluminum everything...it simply can't sustain temps much above the normal range of your typical coolant/water mix in the first place
I don't know what temps an aluminum block can sustain, but I would surmise that few have studied and published data in detail on the topic. Clearly the temperatures are much hotter on the combustion side than the coolant side though, so not exactly sure what you're stating. My sense is that temps are potentially far above the boiling point for either Evans or water right at the liquid/metal interface.
Last edited by rcdash; Aug 12, 2008 at 09:34 AM.
just simply what the possible benefits of coolant that allows for a higher boiling temp than a conventional mix - I can't think of why that is a desirable feature
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
just simply what the possible benefits of coolant that allows for a higher boiling temp than a conventional mix - I can't think of why that is a desirable feature
Anyway, Evans smells good.
Not that I'm sniffing it, but I can tell when there's a leak from 10 ft away. Ask Sharif, I have a sensitive sense of smell...
Last edited by rcdash; Aug 12, 2008 at 10:02 AM.





