pressure is dictated by the rad cap and to an extent, the size of the coolant passages. Using one coolant vs another isn't going to have an impact here. As for vapor recondensing, I'll have to break out the chem books for that one. That line of marketing seems to suggest that water, for example, has a severe burn off problem in a sealed system. In other words, every time you drive your car, you're losing a bit of coolant through the vaporization process. OK...maybe I buy that, but to what end? When was the last time you had to add coolant to your car just because it was low, without there being some sort of leak in the system?

I'll stick to antifreeze; I can tell when its dripping too, site unseen

 

sorry to go OT by the way....let us know what it turns out to be!

 

Hot coolant temp is not what damages an engine, per se...its the destructive boiling and heat spots that develop as a result of the high temp. Regular coolant/water max will start frothing and foaming at about 230F, and suddenly the coolant's effective drops radically as a result. With Evan's there is no foaming, no localized boiling, frothing or hotspots at all. Your cylinders are costantly bathed in a uniform bath of liquid. The cars we track regularly see 230F with Evans with zero issues of any kind. That is not something I would try without Evans.

Evans is overkill for an NA street car, that is not pushed beyond normal limits or used as an endurance engine. Let's face it....no level of street driving...no matter how "hard" you think you are pushing your car....really taxes the cooling system, in the way that 5-10 laps around a circuit course will do.

 

agree with you on the last point

as for the first point, I'll have to see if I can convince the future sister in law to let me borrow some of the tiny cameras from the hospital

 

haha...that would be cool.

Just bring your coolant temp up to 230F (disconnect your fan or something), and then crack the bleeder screw...you can see the foam for yourself.

 

The stuff has been around a while, the chemical explanations make sense but in practicality who knows

here are some threads on the subject

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...rue#Post617434

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...rue#Post612191

 

To get somewhat back on topic, has anyone considered turbo cooling water as cause for failures? I'm having the same exact problem as in the OP's engine. I've been limping it around a while running with the boost controller off, REALLY LIGHT throttle and some aluma seal in the coolant.

Looking at the water flow to the turbos for the JWT kit it taps into the same water for the oil cooler. From looking at it this water is taken from the cooling system after passing thru the engine, then the turbos and back into the engine at the thermostat but it actually enters on the back side of the thermostat.

If the turbos are really hot and you let off the throttle to idle is it possible that there is not enough flow and the coolant to the turbos actually boils? The reason I mention this is since this problem became really pronounced I notice there is a LOT of cavitation going on in the water pump at idle (I hear it) and purging the "Bubble" as I keep hearing has gotten harder and harder. I really think that this is what is creating this "Bubble".

The only answer I see is gutting the thermostat, that way the water pump will always have plenty of flow. The problem is that we only do that after we start having issues.

 

I agree with fklentz... Built motor with APS TT with 50 - 50 water and antifreeze. When
I shut my car off without letting it cool down a little, I hear the water boiling for about
20 seconds and it seems to come from the passenger side Turbo more than driver side.
You have to know how hot the turbos are, and the water temp in the engine is already
not far from boiling point itself, that when the water/antifreeze stop moving after being
shut off, I am sure some boiling does take place. Kinda like the older turbos and the
coking effect of oil. Once engine is shut down, no oil or coolant flow. Not a problem
with coking now as the ball bearings in the new turbos took care of that. HEAT!!!

 

i thought Craig had Greddy Turbo's.. which would be oil cooled

 

Turbo temps is another reason to raise the boiling point of the coolant (for water cooled turbos). Forgot about that. I agree with Sharif about questionable need for street driven cars, but its just an extra margin of safety that I don't mind having...

 

Yep, greddy.

 

we had the same problem befor, the compression was going in to the water passeg and makeing the same problem. it was a broken headstud L19, and i have the pics. ill post them today.

 

When the head was removed, were the torque values checked?

I think this is the first L19 failure I have heard of. Kuwait gets hot for sure.

 

Let's see it.

 

the First broken L19 Headstud in the world

 

hey sharif

thanks for the new headstud u sent to oumran, that was fast.

 

yes we cheked. we torque them 88 befor, after opening the engine, it was 85.

 

lol, it was a horible experience l19. the car makes boost and runs like a normal for a moment then starts overheating. when we took the plenum off of the engine, there was a huge a mount of oil underneath. we couldn’t believe the cause was due to l19 failure. Anyway, it was broke due to air bubble and detonation. btw torque is 85.

 

I torqued mine to 95