best camber spec for max traction!!!
An alignment guy that wont do what your paying him to do with YOUR car is a fool IMO. Ive dealt with a few shops, all have done what Ive asked, and all the guys would say "you need more traction in a straight line huh?"
I have never heard or read anybody say what that guy told you. Not giving the rear more positive camber due to the front sounds like a guy that wanted to go to lunch early that day lol...also while its not a huge difference a good shop will put the drivers weight in the car when performing an alignment.
I have never heard or read anybody say what that guy told you. Not giving the rear more positive camber due to the front sounds like a guy that wanted to go to lunch early that day lol...also while its not a huge difference a good shop will put the drivers weight in the car when performing an alignment.
An alignment guy that wont do what your paying him to do with YOUR car is a fool IMO. Ive dealt with a few shops, all have done what Ive asked, and all the guys would say "you need more traction in a straight line huh?"
I have never heard or read anybody say what that guy told you. Not giving the rear more positive camber due to the front sounds like a guy that wanted to go to lunch early that day lol...also while its not a huge difference a good shop will put the drivers weight in the car when performing an alignment.
I have never heard or read anybody say what that guy told you. Not giving the rear more positive camber due to the front sounds like a guy that wanted to go to lunch early that day lol...also while its not a huge difference a good shop will put the drivers weight in the car when performing an alignment.
I run -.5 in the rear and the handling is still pretty decent. Floaty with the DRs but I think it would be good on normal street tires.
Gran Turismo East did my alignment with me in the car. They do alot of track cars and high end street cars. Very cool guys.
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Well I didn't then. I've got SPL street spec arms sitting in my garage now waiting for someone to install them.
But my point was that he was unwilling to go to -1.5 in the rear while leaving the front at -2.0.
You guys are confusing me.
You said you have less negative camber in the rear than the front (0 vs -1). So why was this guy complaining about a -1.5 vs -2 setup (rear vs. front)?
But my point was that he was unwilling to go to -1.5 in the rear while leaving the front at -2.0.
You guys are confusing me.
You said you have less negative camber in the rear than the front (0 vs -1). So why was this guy complaining about a -1.5 vs -2 setup (rear vs. front)?
You can never have too many adjustment options
Is your car a track car only? Normally you dont do it that way for street cars because of having someone besides yourself in the car....which throws it off.
Last edited by XKR; Oct 15, 2008 at 10:04 AM.
I have Kinetix camber/traction rods AND SPC toe bolts.
Without the toe bolts and my old drop I couldnt get more positive than -2 degrees rear. After raising the rear a little and putting in the toe bolts, car can be in spec at -1 degree, I personally wouldnt want more positive camber on this car.
Without the toe bolts and my old drop I couldnt get more positive than -2 degrees rear. After raising the rear a little and putting in the toe bolts, car can be in spec at -1 degree, I personally wouldnt want more positive camber on this car.
Edit: I didn't do toe bolts and it still lined up great. But I have no idea how much more adjustment is left. Probably not much, but mine isn't that extreme...
Butler did my first alignment and they sucked. Alignment was off, car didn't feel solid at all, and they said they couldn't get it any closer. As was already mentioned by rcdash, they wouldn't work with me.
I've been to Gran Turismo East a few times, and those guys totally rock!
Last edited by gothchick; Oct 16, 2008 at 12:33 PM.
^ yea dude. some shop mechanics are just plain too annoying when it comes to fitting larger tyres.
anyways, thanks a lot for the detailed info bro!!! reason is, im gonna get me a set of camber arms soon.
anyways, thanks a lot for the detailed info bro!!! reason is, im gonna get me a set of camber arms soon.
SPC makes good and inexpensive camber arms, if you can find them. Kinetix and Stillen are probably better but a lot more expensive.
Last edited by gothchick; Oct 16, 2008 at 11:54 AM.
Well I didn't then. I've got SPL street spec arms sitting in my garage now waiting for someone to install them.
But my point was that he was unwilling to go to -1.5 in the rear while leaving the front at -2.0.
You guys are confusing me.
You said you have less negative camber in the rear than the front (0 vs -1). So why was this guy complaining about a -1.5 vs -2 setup (rear vs. front)?
But my point was that he was unwilling to go to -1.5 in the rear while leaving the front at -2.0.
You guys are confusing me.
You said you have less negative camber in the rear than the front (0 vs -1). So why was this guy complaining about a -1.5 vs -2 setup (rear vs. front)?Good choice on the R888's
, especially since you live in a predominantly dry environment. I have 305/30/19s in the rear, and they stuck like h*ll when the track was dry. If it starts raining, however, take it very, very easy. I slowed way down in the rain, but the back end still came around on me twice. I have Pilot Cup Sports in the front because Toyo doesn't make the R888s in 265/30/19. They seemed to be a tad bit better in the rain (since the rear end broke loose first), but it was my first time on the track, so I'll reserve judgement until I get more experience. Also, if you can get 275s in the front (it depends on your wheel size), they should fit. Unfortunately, neither the R888s or Pilot Cup Sports come in a 275 width for my 19" diameter wheels.
Last edited by ttg35fort; Oct 16, 2008 at 11:51 AM.
i took some pic's today, just looking at my camber and seeing my contact patch/wear on my rear tires what kind of camber do you think i am running in the back "ball park"? reason being is i have been doing alot of research on do it yourself aligments. the articles are very informative and it can be accomplished with readily available tooling. i am willing to take a stab at it even if it takes me a whole weekend and some! after i feel i have gotten the spec's that i am looking for i may have it checked at a reputible aligment shop to DOUBLE CHECK my settings. one of the articles is a step by step procedure that is performed on a 240sx which is great due to it has a similar suspension system to the z " rear irs ".
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