My Build: The Good, The Bad & The Progress
, not quite that baller. Just my 05 lights - the 06+ with the Halo are SWEEEET!!! I did upgrade to the 06 LED rears though.
11-30-2008, 08:12 PM
#64
Most of the build is the same, but there are a few changes:
- Solid Motor Mount - undecided and looking for input
- Unorthodox Pulley - swapped for a Fluidampr & stock pulleys
- Ingalls Engine Damper - Do I need this if I use the Solid Mounts
Looking for opinions/feedback from members that are using solid motor mounts. I have read different things in threads, both good and bad, but I am still undecided. Also, do I need the motor damper if I use the solid motor mounts?
- Solid Motor Mount - undecided and looking for input
- Unorthodox Pulley - swapped for a Fluidampr & stock pulleys
- Ingalls Engine Damper - Do I need this if I use the Solid Mounts
Looking for opinions/feedback from members that are using solid motor mounts. I have read different things in threads, both good and bad, but I am still undecided. Also, do I need the motor damper if I use the solid motor mounts?
I feel very lucky about the fully built longblock that I purchased from a fellow Intense customer. I got a sleeved motor with ported & polished heads and 1mm oversize Ferrea valves for the same price ($5,000), but I gave the seller my stock block in return since he is parting out his Z and returning it to stock. The motor was not built by Intense, so it was torn down and inspected prior to installation in my G. Fortunately, the motor was legit (only 1-2% leakdown) and had already proven itself prior in the customer's car with 700+whp dyno pulls at Intense. My
about the evolution of your engine build:- Good/smart decision to go with the Fluidampr pulley on the crank.
The Unorthodox crank pulley is not harmonically balanced and is bad news for longevity on a high power build. - You shouldn't need the engine damper, if you get solid motor mounts; overkill IMO.
- About getting solid motor mounts... What is the intended use for your Z? Primarily track and some street driving? Or primarily street driving and some track use? Solid motor mounts are not a necessity at the 600whp level. If your priority is streetability for daily or weekend driving with occasional track use, I would recommend against solid motor mounts. They will transmit a significant increase in vibration and noise into the cabin. Jorge (IIQuickSilverII) has a 1,000whp build almost completed and the 600+whp build on my G should be done soon after. Neither of us are using solid motor mounts in our builds, because we want to keep our cars streetable. FWIW, Intense's 906whp widebody G still uses the stock motor mounts.
Last edited by RudeG_v2.0; 11-30-2008 at 08:14 PM.
11-30-2008, 08:16 PM
#65
Registered User
Ditto on stock motor mounts here too (769rwhp). Didn't want all that extra vibration and noise.
Tom
Tom
Damn, sorry to hear about your ordeal with this motor. I feel very lucky about the fully built longblock that I purchased from a fellow Intense customer. I got a sleeved motor with ported & polished heads and 1mm oversize Ferrea valves for the same price ($5,000), but I gave the seller my stock block in return since he is parting out his Z and returning it to stock. The motor was not built by Intense, so it was torn down and inspected prior to installation in my G. Fortunately, the motor was legit (only 1-2% leakdown) and had already proven itself prior in the customer's car with 700+whp dyno pulls at Intense.
My about the evolution of your engine build:
I feel very lucky about the fully built longblock that I purchased from a fellow Intense customer. I got a sleeved motor with ported & polished heads and 1mm oversize Ferrea valves for the same price ($5,000), but I gave the seller my stock block in return since he is parting out his Z and returning it to stock. The motor was not built by Intense, so it was torn down and inspected prior to installation in my G. Fortunately, the motor was legit (only 1-2% leakdown) and had already proven itself prior in the customer's car with 700+whp dyno pulls at Intense. My
about the evolution of your engine build:- Good/smart decision to go with the Fluidampr pulley on the crank. The Unorthodox crank pulley is not harmonically balanced and is bad news for longevity on a high power build.
- You shouldn't need the engine damper, if you get solid motor mounts; overkill IMO.
- About getting solid motor mounts... What is the intended use for your Z? Primarily track and some street driving? Or primarily street driving and some track use? Solid motor mounts are not a necessity at the 600whp level. If your priority is streetability for daily or weekend driving with occasional track use, I would recommend against solid motor mounts. They will transmit a significant increase in vibration and noise into the cabin. Jorge (IIQuickSilverII) has a 1,000whp build almost completed and the 600+whp build on my G should be done soon after. Neither of us are using solid motor mounts in our builds, because we want to keep our cars streetable. FWIW, Intense's 906whp widebody G still uses the stock motor mounts.
Sorry to hear about all this crap, but it seems as though your pockets are deep enough? ROFLMAO w/the washer and dryer
12-01-2008, 07:32 AM
#69
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Man Cass...I didn't know you were having so much trouble with your build. Sorry to hear about the motor. You're in VERY good hands with Frank though. Let me know when you're up there I'll bring my Z by so you can take it for a spin with the Autronic.
I agree with Rude.... Stick with stock mounts and get rid of the pulleys. Other than that...seems like you're well on your way. You're gonna love the car and thats the kit I'm going with in the future.
Keep me updated and you know Dave will answer all questions.
I agree with Rude.... Stick with stock mounts and get rid of the pulleys. Other than that...seems like you're well on your way. You're gonna love the car and thats the kit I'm going with in the future.
Keep me updated and you know Dave will answer all questions.
12-01-2008, 05:07 PM
#70
About getting solid motor mounts... What is the intended use for your Z? Primarily track and some street driving? Or primarily street driving and some track use? Solid motor mounts are not a necessity at the 600whp level. If your priority is streetability for daily or weekend driving with occasional track use, I would recommend against solid motor mounts. They will transmit a significant increase in vibration and noise into the cabin. Jorge (IIQuickSilverII) has a 1,000whp build almost completed and the 600+whp build on my G should be done soon after. Neither of us are using solid motor mounts in our builds, because we want to keep our cars streetable. FWIW, Intense's 906whp widebody G still uses the stock motor mounts.
http://www.iapdirect.com/product.php?productid=41962
I got this included with the motor, so at least the seller was good for something, bonus - $0.
The car will be used as a summer/weekend driver and I hope to do a track day or two if possible (not sure if harnesses and a roll cage are needed). Also hoping to hand out the occasional highway beat down when needed.
Man Cass...I didn't know you were having so much trouble with your build. Sorry to hear about the motor. You're in VERY good hands with Frank though. Let me know when you're up there I'll bring my Z by so you can take it for a spin with the Autronic.
I just realized that I have gone the entire day and not spent any money on the build ................that feels different.
12-01-2008, 06:05 PM
#71
Jon is the winner!!! (he may have cheated though)
After missing out on a used Greddy kit from thawk408 (he did a great thing and held his kit for a member of the military that was overseas), I went looking for new kits and came across this:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine/3764...-aps-sale.html
I did some research here:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ion-noobs.html
Thanks SlideFox. This thread will tell you almost anything you need to know about different kits and who is running what, then you can search for members threads and get more detailed info and see how happy they are with their install and setup. Another useful tool is this:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ut-thread.html
Thanks JETPILOT. Again, you can see what is being done with different setups and kits. I know many of you already know this stuff, this is for the benefit of the noobs.
Anyway, I got the APS TT Tuner kit from bryan@Z1 Motorsports. Great customer service and he took the time and answered all my questions prior to purchase. Z1 is having a great APS sale right now - $4995 shipped - if you pay by bank to bank transfer (which was great, no more freakin paypal). The kit arrived in two HEAVY boxes. I haven't opened them for two reasons, I don't want to misplace any parts before install and second, the wife thinks they are equipment for one of my restaurants. They are hiding in plain sight in my storage shed.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=2242
After purchasing the APS kit I decided to upgrade the plenum and went with the APS Tallboy. I considered the Cosworth, but was unsure of the wait time and that plenum is for true ballers only. I found my plenum and the required APS strut bar in the classifieds from specialized5223, it was ironic because we had been trading PMs since he was also burned by the seller of my motor for an oil cooler, he restored my faith in the classified sellers. Package price - $650
https://my350z.com/forum/engine/3853...boy-strut.html
After missing out on a used Greddy kit from thawk408 (he did a great thing and held his kit for a member of the military that was overseas), I went looking for new kits and came across this:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine/3764...-aps-sale.html
I did some research here:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ion-noobs.html
Thanks SlideFox. This thread will tell you almost anything you need to know about different kits and who is running what, then you can search for members threads and get more detailed info and see how happy they are with their install and setup. Another useful tool is this:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ut-thread.html
Thanks JETPILOT. Again, you can see what is being done with different setups and kits. I know many of you already know this stuff, this is for the benefit of the noobs.
Anyway, I got the APS TT Tuner kit from bryan@Z1 Motorsports. Great customer service and he took the time and answered all my questions prior to purchase. Z1 is having a great APS sale right now - $4995 shipped - if you pay by bank to bank transfer (which was great, no more freakin paypal). The kit arrived in two HEAVY boxes. I haven't opened them for two reasons, I don't want to misplace any parts before install and second, the wife thinks they are equipment for one of my restaurants. They are hiding in plain sight in my storage shed.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=2242
After purchasing the APS kit I decided to upgrade the plenum and went with the APS Tallboy. I considered the Cosworth, but was unsure of the wait time and that plenum is for true ballers only. I found my plenum and the required APS strut bar in the classifieds from specialized5223, it was ironic because we had been trading PMs since he was also burned by the seller of my motor for an oil cooler, he restored my faith in the classified sellers. Package price - $650
https://my350z.com/forum/engine/3853...boy-strut.html
12-01-2008, 07:13 PM
#73
Thanks Robbie, I appreciate that. Seeing your car at F:T when I went down for my first mods and tune showed me just how far these cars can be taken. For those of you who haven't seen Driven1's Z yet, it is truly BALLER. I look forward to checking out the Autronic next time we meet up.
Is there a thread about this?
12-01-2008, 07:32 PM
#74
Not OT at all:
http://www.speedlab1.com/autronic_engine_management.htm
https://my350z.com/forum/mid-atlanti...ion-tuned.html
Not a lot of info out there, but it comes highly recommended by Dave at F:T and Robbie (Driven1). I am giving it serious consideration as my EMS.
Edit: I sent Dave a PM asking him to elaborate and I am sure Robbie can offer more info as well. I have some level of understanding, but do not want to explain it poorly.
http://www.speedlab1.com/autronic_engine_management.htm
https://my350z.com/forum/mid-atlanti...ion-tuned.html
This is just a HUGE thanks to Dave at Function:Tuned and a testament to the work he has done on my car.
I just returned from absolutely beating on my car in the AKA Rally (NYC to VEGAS) and I have to say it ran absolutely FLAWLESSLY. I did not change a single thing in the tune on the Autronic SM-4 (I ran 1 map the ENTIRE way with 18psi of boost on an APS ST) and it took the abuse of hours of 100+mph in everything from sea level to above "mile high" (Denver) elevations, 70 degrees to 115 degrees farenheight, and 20+ laps on the track at Hastings Motorsports Park road course in Nebraska (there are other times when it was thrashed a little bit I just won't elaborate for legal reasons...I will say for example a Mustang Cobra learned he needed some more power ). Coolant temps ran absolutely constant nearly all the time except slightly (im talking 5-10 centegrade) hotter at highest elevations and in some of the hottest temps (at the same time). It even took 91 octane (w/octane booster...who knows if they actually work) without a hickup. Top speed pull (not just one but the fastest) was 155 mph (confirmed by GPS as many of you know your speedos become more inaccurate the faster you go). To give you and idea on how well it ran... the car was CONSISTANTLY 2-3 into every checkpoint behind the CRAZY Ferrari drivers (who ended up in jail on the final leg as their luck finally ran out...Vince...if u see this I love you man but you're nuts...and yes...you were first...except for the last day...hahahaha) and the GT-R who I drove with most of the time.
I couldn't be happier with all the work he has done on the car and would absolutely never let anyone else touch it. It made it without a hick-up even when fully built diesel trucks, turbo RX-8's by SFR, and stock Porches were faultering to the abuse. If any of you have ever driven across the country you can imagine the abuse of doing a rally in the summer heat where consistant higher speeds are being done with more acceleration periods. I even still got 300 miles per tank.
Props Dave. W/O your great work it would've never made it and I would have never had the experiences on the Rally this year.
I did finally break it as I melted some wiring doing numerous back to back burnouts and donuts in Vegas at Las Vegas Motor Speedway. I was a little excited and got a little overzealous...the heat just got to be too much for plastic wiring connectors to take (burnouts equal lack of airflow, FYI..lol). The car should be back a week from today from Vegas for repairs and back on the road VERY shortly as it's pretty minor.
Awesome work Dave. Thanks Again.
I just returned from absolutely beating on my car in the AKA Rally (NYC to VEGAS) and I have to say it ran absolutely FLAWLESSLY. I did not change a single thing in the tune on the Autronic SM-4 (I ran 1 map the ENTIRE way with 18psi of boost on an APS ST) and it took the abuse of hours of 100+mph in everything from sea level to above "mile high" (Denver) elevations, 70 degrees to 115 degrees farenheight, and 20+ laps on the track at Hastings Motorsports Park road course in Nebraska (there are other times when it was thrashed a little bit I just won't elaborate for legal reasons...I will say for example a Mustang Cobra learned he needed some more power ). Coolant temps ran absolutely constant nearly all the time except slightly (im talking 5-10 centegrade) hotter at highest elevations and in some of the hottest temps (at the same time). It even took 91 octane (w/octane booster...who knows if they actually work) without a hickup. Top speed pull (not just one but the fastest) was 155 mph (confirmed by GPS as many of you know your speedos become more inaccurate the faster you go). To give you and idea on how well it ran... the car was CONSISTANTLY 2-3 into every checkpoint behind the CRAZY Ferrari drivers (who ended up in jail on the final leg as their luck finally ran out...Vince...if u see this I love you man but you're nuts...and yes...you were first...except for the last day...hahahaha) and the GT-R who I drove with most of the time.
I couldn't be happier with all the work he has done on the car and would absolutely never let anyone else touch it. It made it without a hick-up even when fully built diesel trucks, turbo RX-8's by SFR, and stock Porches were faultering to the abuse. If any of you have ever driven across the country you can imagine the abuse of doing a rally in the summer heat where consistant higher speeds are being done with more acceleration periods. I even still got 300 miles per tank.
Props Dave. W/O your great work it would've never made it and I would have never had the experiences on the Rally this year.
I did finally break it as I melted some wiring doing numerous back to back burnouts and donuts in Vegas at Las Vegas Motor Speedway. I was a little excited and got a little overzealous...the heat just got to be too much for plastic wiring connectors to take (burnouts equal lack of airflow, FYI..lol). The car should be back a week from today from Vegas for repairs and back on the road VERY shortly as it's pretty minor.
Awesome work Dave. Thanks Again.
Edit: I sent Dave a PM asking him to elaborate and I am sure Robbie can offer more info as well. I have some level of understanding, but do not want to explain it poorly.
Last edited by Cass007; 12-01-2008 at 09:09 PM.
12-01-2008, 08:08 PM
#76
Not OT at all:
http://www.speedlab1.com/autronic_engine_management.htm
https://my350z.com/forum/mid-atlanti...ion-tuned.html
Not a lot of info out there, but it comes highly recommended by Dave at F:T and Robbie (Driven1). I am giving it serios consideration as my EMS.
http://www.speedlab1.com/autronic_engine_management.htm
https://my350z.com/forum/mid-atlanti...ion-tuned.html
Not a lot of info out there, but it comes highly recommended by Dave at F:T and Robbie (Driven1). I am giving it serios consideration as my EMS.
Hmmm... Not much info indeed. Even the speedlab website did not have a lot of specific info on features or specs. I'm curious how this EMS compares to FCon, Haltech, ProEFI, MoTec, etc.Hopefully Robbie will chime in here and provide some more info about the Autronic's features/specs. It's performance on his Z in the AKA Rally is definitely impressive.
12-02-2008, 07:35 AM
#77
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I'd rather not get off topic here for Cass, but Ill give a little info and ask Dave at F:T to start a thread explaining everything.
A little info about the Autronic. I currently run the SM-4. I can't explain the serious indepth details about how it runs in the background b/c Im not the truely knowledgable one on these units, but the features are endless. We haven't even figured out how or had the time to mess with integrating all the features to get them to work with the Z...(wet/dry TCS, etc...we need time). Dave a F:T does have the gear based boost control, throttle based boost control, cam control, etc. functioning. It has antilag, launch control, autotune based on wideband, data stream power and tq from the dyno and all that fun stuff too.
The thing that sold me on the Autronic is it has EVERY feature of the top of the line EMS's out there but has more background factors entering into compensation (charge temp, coolant temp, wideband, etc)which is VERY important when driving during drastic and extreme climate and elevation changes. My cars tune was done at 32 degrees F here in Dulles, VA in January 2008 and not changed prior to running across the 115 degree F dessert conditions entering Vegas and the Mile High heat in Colorado in August.
Autronic is building a new website so most of the vids are gone. Including the one cell tune. But here it is anyway.
http://www.autronic.com.au/
Here's a vid of some autotuning on an EVO (blurry as hell but I think you'll get the point)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7I4Zn0sbFc
And heres the vid of the famous one cell tune on an SM-4.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpW_SLtANMc
A little info about the Autronic. I currently run the SM-4. I can't explain the serious indepth details about how it runs in the background b/c Im not the truely knowledgable one on these units, but the features are endless. We haven't even figured out how or had the time to mess with integrating all the features to get them to work with the Z...(wet/dry TCS, etc...we need time). Dave a F:T does have the gear based boost control, throttle based boost control, cam control, etc. functioning. It has antilag, launch control, autotune based on wideband, data stream power and tq from the dyno and all that fun stuff too.
The thing that sold me on the Autronic is it has EVERY feature of the top of the line EMS's out there but has more background factors entering into compensation (charge temp, coolant temp, wideband, etc)which is VERY important when driving during drastic and extreme climate and elevation changes. My cars tune was done at 32 degrees F here in Dulles, VA in January 2008 and not changed prior to running across the 115 degree F dessert conditions entering Vegas and the Mile High heat in Colorado in August.
Autronic is building a new website so most of the vids are gone. Including the one cell tune. But here it is anyway.
http://www.autronic.com.au/
Here's a vid of some autotuning on an EVO (blurry as hell but I think you'll get the point)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7I4Zn0sbFc
And heres the vid of the famous one cell tune on an SM-4.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpW_SLtANMc
12-02-2008, 12:44 PM
#80
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Auto tune means set your background parameters...hold throttle, rpms, and load...and wait for the cell to turn green. When you're green.. the factors you have determined in your desired A/F have been corrected to maintain your A/F ratio at that point. The more cells that are green the smoother your A/F's are throughout load, throttle, boost, RPM etc.
Thats the simple way to put it... and it is pretty much that simple. Perfecting the background factors is whats the hard part.
Last edited by Driven1; 12-02-2008 at 12:46 PM.