Catch Can / Breather Filter Install (Lots of Pics)
#62
Doug, I didnt read the entire thread but wanted to note.
I have blown my dipstick out a few times after only a second or two WOT. It was due to the rubber seal on the dipstick disentegrating. It felt like it was in, but would pull out with no hesitation. I needed a new dipstick to stop the problem. Easy fix, take a look at yours, chances are with how hard it is to get to and the charge pipe being large, that the rubber is torn.
BTW-give me your address Im gonna send you an engine cleaning kit for Xmas!
I have blown my dipstick out a few times after only a second or two WOT. It was due to the rubber seal on the dipstick disentegrating. It felt like it was in, but would pull out with no hesitation. I needed a new dipstick to stop the problem. Easy fix, take a look at yours, chances are with how hard it is to get to and the charge pipe being large, that the rubber is torn.
BTW-give me your address Im gonna send you an engine cleaning kit for Xmas!
#63
Doug, I didnt read the entire thread but wanted to note.
I have blown my dipstick out a few times after only a second or two WOT. It was due to the rubber seal on the dipstick disentegrating. It felt like it was in, but would pull out with no hesitation. I needed a new dipstick to stop the problem. Easy fix, take a look at yours, chances are with how hard it is to get to and the charge pipe being large, that the rubber is torn.
BTW-give me your address Im gonna send you an engine cleaning kit for Xmas!
I have blown my dipstick out a few times after only a second or two WOT. It was due to the rubber seal on the dipstick disentegrating. It felt like it was in, but would pull out with no hesitation. I needed a new dipstick to stop the problem. Easy fix, take a look at yours, chances are with how hard it is to get to and the charge pipe being large, that the rubber is torn.
BTW-give me your address Im gonna send you an engine cleaning kit for Xmas!
i have no problem cleaning my engine or my car for that matter.. but when you are frustrated about ****.. thats the last thing on your mind.. you knwo what i mean? when i meticuliously clean my car is when things are running great.. when its a drag to drive the car.. you could care less about how clean it is
#65
Drill from the bottom of the PCV. Go slow and take away just enough material so that you can then easily pop out the internal valve and spring. The drill bit should be just slightly larger than the hole that is already there.
Do not try to drill from the top, drill from the bottom and remove the valve and spring that way.
Do not try to drill from the top, drill from the bottom and remove the valve and spring that way.
#67
Yes... I used a 7/16 drill bit. You want to remove almost the entire lower black cap. The inner diameter of the pcv valve is 7/16. So when you drill the black outer cap off the white poppet valve falls out. You do not want to drill the white valve. That can't be done. Then drill from the top part of the pcv valve to enlarge the hole for more flow. As Andrew said I used his drill press to do this.
#68
Drill from the bottom of the PCV. Go slow and take away just enough material so that you can then easily pop out the internal valve and spring. The drill bit should be just slightly larger than the hole that is already there.
Do not try to drill from the top, drill from the bottom and remove the valve and spring that way.
Do not try to drill from the top, drill from the bottom and remove the valve and spring that way.
God d@mn it though - why didn't I think of that? Wasted that $20 piece.
#70
Like I said before, some people like to apply vacuum to the crankcase - either vacuum on all ports (to actually create a vacuum condition in the cc), or at least to pull fresh air through one side. These "meaningless check valves" are used by people who wish to have vacuum applied to the cc under low-load conditions (not in boost) - at least something to help extract blowby out of the cc.
I would personally want vacuum in my cc at all times. However, short of a vacuum pump, keeping the PCV hooked up to the plenum with a check valve is the next best solution. Like rcdash said, it would also be nice to hook up the driver's side to a turbo/sc intake to help pull blowby out under boost - despite the very low vacuum provided by an turbo/sc intake.
Regardless of the setup, it seems like most F/I people should enlarge the hole in the driver's side breather.
#71
The PCV valve works as advertised. There is no need for a check valve.
A vaccum pump is not needed. High pressure will seak low pressure. Give the high pressure air somewhere to vent and it will.
A vaccum pump is not needed. High pressure will seak low pressure. Give the high pressure air somewhere to vent and it will.
#73
it screws into the valve cover.. yeah you can remove it without removing the valve cover.. just have to remove the hose.. then you can screw it out with a socket wrench
#74
From what I gathered...
Just pop off the hose leading to the pcv, unscrew the pcv with ratchet & socket, pull it out and modify it to a full free flowing port. Re-install new and improved pcv valve and add a hose leading to a Catch can that has a filtered opening instead of a return hose. Finally you can cap off the return port to the lower plenum.
Did I miss anything?
#75
Awesome news. Thanks. That makes doing this mod much more simple.
From what I gathered...
Just pop off the hose leading to the pcv, unscrew the pcv with ratchet & socket, pull it out and modify it to a full free flowing port. Re-install new and improved pcv valve and add a hose leading to a Catch can that has a filtered opening instead of a return hose. Finally you can cap off the return port to the lower plenum.
Did I miss anything?
From what I gathered...
Just pop off the hose leading to the pcv, unscrew the pcv with ratchet & socket, pull it out and modify it to a full free flowing port. Re-install new and improved pcv valve and add a hose leading to a Catch can that has a filtered opening instead of a return hose. Finally you can cap off the return port to the lower plenum.
Did I miss anything?
You could do all that...the only problem is now when you are in vacuum you aren't pulling air through the crankcase. Based on what I've gathered on here, I would go the route of enlarging the DRIVER'S side breather by drilling it out before and see how that works before you completely eliminate the PCV system.
#76
Is this because the port on the driver side is deceptively large but the internal diameter is much smaller than it appears?
So when you say drill it out, you mean to drill it to open it to its actual size to facilitate more air into the valve cover/cc?
So when you say drill it out, you mean to drill it to open it to its actual size to facilitate more air into the valve cover/cc?
#77
Drilling it out wouldn't be the first thing I would do as it is the most labor intensive since you have to remove the valve cover. And it is to let the CC vent out not in. The problem is venting under boost.
#78
Yes, it's smaller inside. It's to facilitate more CC pressure OUT during boost.
#79
Yes the problem IS venting under boost, which is exactly why opening up the driver's side breather would help flow more pressure OUT into the pre-boost intake or to atmosphere. It's a good way to keep the PCV system while venting more during boost.