YAY! Thats good news. Thanks! I did a custom catch can for my setup with baffles etc. This is V2 of the design, if I make a V3, I think I'll try the hoses like you have them rcdash. That hose setup does look the best.

 

so for FI rcdash's system is best?!

 

I no longer have a connection between the catch can and the driver's side turbo intake. It didn't contribute enough to warrant the extra plumbing. This also eliminates another route for oil to get into the intake piping. Instead I left a check valve open to air on the catch can (along with another little breather filter). That provides another escape route for gases under boost.

 

picture?!

 

This is how i put in my greddy catch can and i can see that it the inlet hose it a bit more yellow than the outlet hose...i think its working i guess..its been a month.

 

If those are the stock greddy hoses then change them ASAP. they are weak and tend to close the ends up.

 

On NA it's causes a vacuum leak if it draws vacuum. I tried it and I'm 100% sure of it. Don't know if it still does with no vacuum drawn. Don't know how it wouldn't on FI.

 

haha yeah found that out like 2 days later...now i got better hoses. Thanks.

 

Where is everyone getting their check valves at?

I've been looking everywhere for a 3/8" check valve for my setup. I found some for an air compressor that are 3/8" NPT and would work good but they don't list which direction flow is on the website. I don't want to spend 11$ each if they are the wrong direction.

 

This would work:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...6843&catid=489

At $.70 you can't go wrong.

 

this is why you get paid the big bucks.

thanks!

 

Sorry, to continue beating this dead horse, but I'm getting a smelly, watery, yellow liquid in my catch can. Kind of like a watered down vegetable oil. I had about 2 shot glasses worth after my 1100 mile drive from South Carolina to Texas.

My plumbing is passenger and drivers valve covers to catch can then outlet to driver's turbo intake.

 

^ then you are getting rid of fuel and water vapor. It's working correctly!

 

Sorry to revive an old thread but what OD are the two valve cover ports, need to order some breathers for them.

 

5/8" for the drivers and like 3/8" for the passenger

 

Thanks so much.

 

I keep having to replace my seals on the vortech. I just reinstalled an upgraded seal from 928 motorsports, and was wondering if maybe the reason behind my seals going bad have somthing to do with my PCV setup. I have the driver side vented with a breather, and the passenger side has a catch can between the PCV and the plenum(not vented). Here are my options now.

1. replace catch can with a vented one and plug the plenum.

2. same as above with drilled out PCV.

3. drilled out PCV with breather filter.

The reason I ask is cause the new seals came with a pamphlet stating that an improper PCV setup can cause seal problems due to increased crank case pressure. What are your thoughts on this?

 

It sounds like your PCV may be letting boost back into the crankcase. Put another check valve in line with the intake manifold to prevent boost from getting into your catch can. Then you can opt to drill out the PCV if you wish, which will help out of boost evacuation only.

 

i'm failing to see the connection between vortech oil seals and crankcase pressure. Increased crankcase pressure will cause valve cover seals to fail but it won't do anything to the pressure inside the gearbox on the vortech unit.

 

I'm leaning towards capping the plenum and just venting the drilled out pvc through a vented catch can. I was going to also run a hose into the catch can from the rear driver side. I'm tired of getting soot all over my fire wall. Just have to find a good mounting spot for the can, because of how the Vortech is mounted.

This is per 928 Motorsports.

"If the crankcase is building pressure, the supercharger case (which drains into the crankcase) is building pressure too, and this may be the cause of the seal weeping. Vent the crankcase correctly and the seal leak may stop".