Ha ha, it's funny that you mention that, because I was thinking about it about an hour ago.

I did not know that the stock clutch can handle the powa, although probably not for a long time.

Before I go ahead and experiment, I will have to do some injector bank trimming. My bank one is running (at times for a 500rpm duration) richer than bank two. I would see 10.5 a/f on bank one and at the same instance 11.4 a/f on bank two.

Hal tels me that it is normal and very common for bank one to run leaner with these engines, I just don't know if that is a bit much.

 

how do you tune for different banks?

I have a setup for a dual wideband but i only run 1 because i didn't think it would make a difference since i can't tune for the separate banks.

I've done logging on both banks and they seem pretty much identical for mine.

 

Well guys it's time for an update. I have been going to the track (1/4 mile) often and beating the crap out of the kit/car. Everything was holding up great untill I bumped the boost to 7.5psi. Right off the line I dump the clutch at about 3500rpm and I instanlty go to 6500rpm and not moving that fast.

Stock clutch had enough, so last week I jacked the car up and installed the JWT flywheel (what an effing nightmare) and a CM FX300 clutch. I bought the clutch/flywheel here used:

https://my350z.com/forum/engine/4365...cm-clutch.html

The idiots that had it installed for the first time striped most of the 9 bolts that hold the clutch pressure plate in place. I knew I couldn't tighten them to the JWT specs of 24ft/lbs so it was time for plan B. I took the drill out and drilled all the holes out to 21/64'ths of an inch, grabed a 3/8-24 tap and retapped all the holes. Had to drill the pressure plate a bit as well but it all turned out great.

I am now at 7.5psi and loving it. With this clutch it is a completly different car, I can now tell how much the OEM clutch was slipping. With a 3.3fd VLSD, I lost traction in second gear (on the street) at about 5500rpm, a bit cary I have to say. This is with 295 PS 2's in the back with 25psi air pressure.

I think the turbo is much happier in this range, and I know it would be even better at about 9-10psi. I just can't believe the difference between 5psi and 7.5psi.

I also changed my piping slightly, I now have 2.5" piping from both banks. I had some issues with bank 1 running richer than bank 2 at WOT. This I now know was caused by the 2" piping that was run from bank one to merge with bank 2. This cleaned up my A/F up nicely because now the back pressure is even, again a good improvement.

So basically the kit has now been perfected, and I am confident that in it's current state could produce 550+whp. The turbo is rated for 781cfm/61lb basically same as the GT35r, and I love the fact that I hit full boost at 3200rpm. Wish I had a built engine or knew somebody that does, so I can send them a kit to try it out.

I will try to redyno, just to see how much more power the car is making. I can tell it is a lot more than it used to.

 

Kool Congratz to you my friend. Im eager to see the new dyno results

 

Took u long enough..... lol Congrats on the completion and satisfaction. I remember when u started this last yr, post 15.

 

Yeah, the only reason I didn't bump the boost sooner is the clutch. I was hoping to ride it out till winter and then do the upgrade, so much for that I guess.

 

awsome update! that sucks about the extra work on the clutch but pretty sweet that you overcame and got it installed.

 

so what were your times?

 

Not that good, my 60' is suffering. My best 60' is 2.35, ran 13.9@107. During this run I had crazy wheel hop in second gear so I let off the throdle and then got back on it again. That lost me a ton of time right there.

I will be at it again this weekend. I know the car can do low 13's, if I could just get my 60' down to around two and no wheel hop. I will lower my tire pressure to 20psi and see what happens. The 2200ft elevation makes a bit of a difference too. I would also benifit from a 3.5fd diff, maybe this winter I will get the Quaife.


How do you guys set your suspention up for the drag strip. I have the BC coilovers, so there is a ton of adjustment that can be made. I sould suspect that I should go full soft in the back. I will also mount a camer in the car tonight and have some videos for you guys.

 

MAn.... Congrats on the work and and the results. I remember people hitting on you why not just get a TT or stuff like that. I wish I could have the mad skills you have to fabricate my own kit. I've researched about kits and thought once that I could get the STS universal kit and fit it to the Z. Price was a factor since I have to pay tuition. I opted to save some more money and hopefully buy a good set up. Anyways, look forward to see your Dyno sheets, videos, and new times at the track!

 

Great job perfecting that midship turbo kit! If you have a GoPro, please do some runs with the cam mounted outside the car too - that would be really cool...

 

awesome work. It was pleasure reading the entire build from page 1 to 21...

 

do not run street tires below 28 psi. it wont gain you anything and its just dangerous. keep practicing. You should be much quicker than a stock car

 

Tell me about it. Mind you, the best I got stock was 15.2. So practice practice practise I guess.

I also have a bit more tuning to do. I loged all my runs last time I was out and noticed that after first gear I am running very rich (10:1). So basically first gear is perfect, and when I shift to second it goes to 10:1 till about 5500rpm then back to 11:7:1, next gear same thing, rich at first leaning out after 5500rpm.

I will have a closer look at the log tonight and see what cells I need to pull fuel out of. That has a lot to do with it too, power/torque to be gained right there.

 

that easy to do. just have someone drive and realtime change with your haltech.

 

Using the data log for fine tuning is tedious but it works.

Someone needs to write a nifty auto-tune program to take a data log and automatically apply corrections to the appropriate cells of a fuel map, taking load, rpms and interpolation between cells into account. Much of this could be coded in Excel pretty easily with a couple of predesigned worksheets and some visual basic.

Any programmers out there running Haltechs with some free time?

 

Ha, wouldn't that be something.

I do my adjusting by going through the data logs as well, and yes it is not the fastest way to get tings done, but does work well.

I took some fuel out in the 5500+rpm range and high vacuum so we shall see how that works out. I didn't feel like going out for a drive though, kind of cold and crappy here. I think winter is here, again.

 

I'm a programmer & was just thinking the other day about writing a log analyzer that you could upload to, producing a printable chart on a website. Other features like suggested tuning adjustments makes sense. Do the Haltech's provide data logging in a .txt or .csv output format?

Sasha, maybe you could send me one of yours - I'd like to take a look at it.

 

The power commander V self-tunes based a a pre-determined a/f ratio. If they can do it on bikes i'm sure someone can make it work on cars!

 

^thats what closed loop tuning is