APS turbo studs replacement?
03-25-2009, 03:56 PM
#1
Turbo Whore
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: West suburbs of Chi-town
Posts: 7,303
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
APS turbo studs replacement?
So 2 years ago I pulled my stock motor out and swapped my APS TT kit to my built motor. In the process of removing the turbos, I rounded a couple of the lock nuts that hold the turbos to the manifolds since all i could get on them was an open end wrench.
The studs used in the aps kit are dual thread, so they are not readily available.
I went to the local hardware store and was able to find hardened studs that matched the length and were single thread that matched the manifold. I then bought some thin 12mm nuts and tightened them pretty good. I did not use split washers though.
Fast forward to now, 3 out of the four nut/stud combos on the drivers side turbo have backed themselves out and disappeared. At least one is gone from the pass side turbo. So now I'm in the process of pulling my motor for no other reason then to "re-stud" and torque down new hardware on the turbos.
(before anyone says that I should have replaced the studs with the motor in the car, I couldn't find any way to PROPERLY torque the nuts on the studs with the motor in the car.)
Anyway..does anyone know where I can get some replacement hardware that WON'T back itself out?? I know some shops had to have run into this issue.
The studs used in the aps kit are dual thread, so they are not readily available.
I went to the local hardware store and was able to find hardened studs that matched the length and were single thread that matched the manifold. I then bought some thin 12mm nuts and tightened them pretty good. I did not use split washers though.
Fast forward to now, 3 out of the four nut/stud combos on the drivers side turbo have backed themselves out and disappeared. At least one is gone from the pass side turbo. So now I'm in the process of pulling my motor for no other reason then to "re-stud" and torque down new hardware on the turbos.
(before anyone says that I should have replaced the studs with the motor in the car, I couldn't find any way to PROPERLY torque the nuts on the studs with the motor in the car.)
Anyway..does anyone know where I can get some replacement hardware that WON'T back itself out?? I know some shops had to have run into this issue.
03-25-2009, 05:11 PM
#6
There is a threadlocker http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/rm_threadlockers.htm
The red loctite withstands only to about 500 deg..
Product Description
Loctite 272 Red withstands temperatures to 450 Degrees F. This high-temp/High-strength threadlocker is formulated for heavy-duty applications. Prevents bolts up to 1-1/2" (36mm) from loosening due to shock severe vibration and heatstress. An exclusive formulation for newer engines and high performance applications where extreme temperature resistance is required. removable with heat and hand tools. Suggested applications: Camshaft sprocket bolts crankshaft bolts idler bearings press fit filler tubes transmission input and output shaft threads ring gear and shock bolts.
The red loctite withstands only to about 500 deg..
Product Description
Loctite 272 Red withstands temperatures to 450 Degrees F. This high-temp/High-strength threadlocker is formulated for heavy-duty applications. Prevents bolts up to 1-1/2" (36mm) from loosening due to shock severe vibration and heatstress. An exclusive formulation for newer engines and high performance applications where extreme temperature resistance is required. removable with heat and hand tools. Suggested applications: Camshaft sprocket bolts crankshaft bolts idler bearings press fit filler tubes transmission input and output shaft threads ring gear and shock bolts.
03-25-2009, 05:21 PM
#7
Turbo Whore
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: West suburbs of Chi-town
Posts: 7,303
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
There is a threadlocker http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/rm_threadlockers.htm
The red loctite withstands only to about 500 deg..
Product Description
Loctite 272 Red withstands temperatures to 450 Degrees F. This high-temp/High-strength threadlocker is formulated for heavy-duty applications. Prevents bolts up to 1-1/2" (36mm) from loosening due to shock severe vibration and heatstress. An exclusive formulation for newer engines and high performance applications where extreme temperature resistance is required. removable with heat and hand tools. Suggested applications: Camshaft sprocket bolts crankshaft bolts idler bearings press fit filler tubes transmission input and output shaft threads ring gear and shock bolts.
The red loctite withstands only to about 500 deg..
Product Description
Loctite 272 Red withstands temperatures to 450 Degrees F. This high-temp/High-strength threadlocker is formulated for heavy-duty applications. Prevents bolts up to 1-1/2" (36mm) from loosening due to shock severe vibration and heatstress. An exclusive formulation for newer engines and high performance applications where extreme temperature resistance is required. removable with heat and hand tools. Suggested applications: Camshaft sprocket bolts crankshaft bolts idler bearings press fit filler tubes transmission input and output shaft threads ring gear and shock bolts.
Anyone have any ideas on hardware?
Trending Topics
03-26-2009, 04:10 AM
#8
Spot weld. My mechanic builds race cars and he spot welds every bolts and nuts. He makes a "weld dot" on the joining surface of where the bolt and surface meet... <-I'm not sure if you undertand what I'm talking about... anyway.... They stay in place and it's not too difficult to undo them..
Last edited by leeboyNY; 03-26-2009 at 04:19 AM.
03-26-2009, 04:37 AM
#9
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
They actually make a nice stud socket that will drive them in tight and wont mess up the threads, thats what you need to tighten them with. Then use some copper nuts on there. They will hold it fine but will probably need to be replaced each time you take them off but they wont back the studs out if they are properly tightened in. Those studs are pretty easy to find at any place that only deals with fasteners. Probably wont find them at a generic hardware store though.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a
03-26-2009, 07:10 AM
#10
Turbo Whore
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: West suburbs of Chi-town
Posts: 7,303
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Spot weld. My mechanic builds race cars and he spot welds every bolts and nuts. He makes a "weld dot" on the joining surface of where the bolt and surface meet... <-I'm not sure if you undertand what I'm talking about... anyway.... They stay in place and it's not too difficult to undo them..
Originally Posted by Jeremy@Altered
They actually make a nice stud socket that will drive them in tight and wont mess up the threads, thats what you need to tighten them with. Then use some copper nuts on there. They will hold it fine but will probably need to be replaced each time you take them off but they wont back the studs out if they are properly tightened in. Those studs are pretty easy to find at any place that only deals with fasteners. Probably wont find them at a generic hardware store though.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a
I have no issues with the studs. I can install and removed them just fine with two nuts tightened against each other. It's the nuts staying in place that is the problem.
03-28-2009, 07:51 AM
#11
atpturbo.com
they sell the APS studs. 8mm and 10mm.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=FST
they sell the APS studs. 8mm and 10mm.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=FST
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
