GReddy 18g v. 20g. for 600whp?
#21
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Here is a video of my old setup (18G) vs Sharif on his old 20G setup. Sorry for the gay music, I had to swap audio to get the video to play youtube pulled it with the original song/edit...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGHxTYPbqLQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGHxTYPbqLQ
#22
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I'm trying to plan ahead for my build as I continue saving and I wanted to get some opinions on the setup for my car so here goes.
I'm planning on going GReddy TT kit on my Z. My goal is to put down 600whp on a DD, and run 10's in the quarter mile. I don't have any interest in putting down any more power any time soon as I'm sure the car will be a beast to handle at that power level. There is a guy local to me that has made 600whp with the 18g kit, but he recommended that I should go with the 20g kit so I will have more head room if I decide to up the boost even more later.
Is the extra money spent on the 20g worth it? And how much laggier is the 20g v. the 18g? I would like as little lag as possible as this will be mainly a street car that sees some track time. I know, everyone's famous last words "I'll be fine with xxxhp, no need to turn it up later" but I know what my goals are for the build and I'd rather get a good, responsive setup on the car first and then decide if I can deal with more lag/more power later.
Thanks for any help in advance.
I'm planning on going GReddy TT kit on my Z. My goal is to put down 600whp on a DD, and run 10's in the quarter mile. I don't have any interest in putting down any more power any time soon as I'm sure the car will be a beast to handle at that power level. There is a guy local to me that has made 600whp with the 18g kit, but he recommended that I should go with the 20g kit so I will have more head room if I decide to up the boost even more later.
Is the extra money spent on the 20g worth it? And how much laggier is the 20g v. the 18g? I would like as little lag as possible as this will be mainly a street car that sees some track time. I know, everyone's famous last words "I'll be fine with xxxhp, no need to turn it up later" but I know what my goals are for the build and I'd rather get a good, responsive setup on the car first and then decide if I can deal with more lag/more power later.
Thanks for any help in advance.
I made over 600 RWHP on a Mustang dyno (609 actual, 603 weather corrected) with the twin Greddy 18g's on 93 octane with 17.5 psi of boost.
The timing was fairly conservative at 9-10 degrees between 3500 and 5500 rpm. I still had room to go, but didn't want to push it until we got a chance to tune with meth. Roger felt that if we wanted to push it to the bleeding edge (which he strongly recommended not to do since I run it on the track), we could have gotten to 630 RWHP on 93 octane. With meth injection on line, which would allow for more boost and advanced timing, we were hoping to get to between 700 and 750 RWHP. (I say "were" because now I am in the process of switching to water cooled turbos since I will be pushing the turbos very hard for long periods of time on road courses).
That said, the 20g's will give you more a bit more air flow, but there will be a bit of sacrifice with turbo lag.
One last thing, I am selling my Greddy TT kit with the 18G's and the Greddy Intercooler for a screaming deal. It only has about 1,000 miles on it and the first 500-600 miles were easy breakin. It also has Techline ceramic coating applied inside and out on the Exhaust manifolds and Turbo housings. Here is the link, which includes my 93 octane dynograph (before the ceramic coating was applied):
https://my350z.com/forum/turbos-nitr...st-system.html
Last edited by ttg35fort; 04-14-2009 at 07:43 AM.
#23
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I would bet my car I would destroy 99% of the cars on this forum running built motors and 20G kits especially from a roll...
If anything your statement above is backwards, the faster spool would help on the street for drag racing you should never be out of powerband ever![Wink](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
If anything your statement above is backwards, the faster spool would help on the street for drag racing you should never be out of powerband ever
![Wink](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
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#25
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Oh man, another dreamer thread, 600whp, and wants to run 10's!! What is your drag racing experience like?
OP-the 18G kit will get you 700whp trust me![Wink](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I make 605whp @ 13psi on pump, I didnt like the lag of the 20G kit, it never felt like it made up for it on the top end either....
OP-the 18G kit will get you 700whp trust me
![Wink](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I make 605whp @ 13psi on pump, I didnt like the lag of the 20G kit, it never felt like it made up for it on the top end either....
![thumbup](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
The reason I was hesitant to go with the 20g also is I won't be sleeving the motor initially and from what I've read anything past 650whp on a stock-sleeve engine is dangerous territory. I've considered doing cams with the build, but I don't plan on putting the engine together myself, installing it back in the car with the turbo kit will be what I am doing.
psychoballistic - Looking into the ACT 6 puck clutch and StreetLite Flywheel. I'm sure I will blow the transmission at some point but we will cross that road when we get to it. Stock rear end gear ratio too.
Thanks for all the input, keep it coming
#26
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Here is a video of my old setup (18G) vs Sharif on his old 20G setup. Sorry for the gay music, I had to swap audio to get the video to play youtube pulled it with the original song/edit...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGHxTYPbqLQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGHxTYPbqLQ
#27
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Alberto - Have been anywhere from 14 second passes in a N/A Honda Civic to 9 second passes on my ZX10R and everything in between. I'm not expert my any means and I guess it's not my first rodeo either. Hell I'll be happy to click off a 10.9999999
The highest HP car I've owned was a 500hp Cobra so I don't think this will be too much more to handle. My bike is also faster than a local 600whp Z so I think I'll be ok.
The reason I was hesitant to go with the 20g also is I won't be sleeving the motor initially and from what I've read anything past 650whp on a stock-sleeve engine is dangerous territory. I've considered doing cams with the build, but I don't plan on putting the engine together myself, installing it back in the car with the turbo kit will be what I am doing.
psychoballistic - Looking into the ACT 6 puck clutch and StreetLite Flywheel. I'm sure I will blow the transmission at some point but we will cross that road when we get to it. Stock rear end gear ratio too.
Thanks for all the input, keep it coming
![thumbup](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
The reason I was hesitant to go with the 20g also is I won't be sleeving the motor initially and from what I've read anything past 650whp on a stock-sleeve engine is dangerous territory. I've considered doing cams with the build, but I don't plan on putting the engine together myself, installing it back in the car with the turbo kit will be what I am doing.
psychoballistic - Looking into the ACT 6 puck clutch and StreetLite Flywheel. I'm sure I will blow the transmission at some point but we will cross that road when we get to it. Stock rear end gear ratio too.
Thanks for all the input, keep it coming
I'm not sure how Nissan got around this issue with the stock sleeves, but whatever they did to the stock sleeves seems to work. XKR had over 800 RWHP on his last build on a motor with stock sleeves, and I don't beleive he had any problems. Now he is going for over 1000 RWHP with a 4.0 L stroker, and I think this still uses the stock sleeves.
Also, the motors with the Darton sleeves run hotter. If you are only using this for street or 1/4 mi. use, it may not be a problem. If, however, you are planning or road racing the car, you're probably better off not sleeving the motor.
One last thing, I would recommend a Carbonetics or Exedy twin or tripple disk clutch. A single disk clutch that is strong enough to hold 650 RWHP will most likely have an engagement that is not going to be street friendly (i.e. almost like a switch, off and then on). I have a Carbonetics tripple disk. It is very smooth and very strong. Much, much smoother and stronger than the Clutchmasters twin disk I started with (which I fried the first time I launched at 3500 rpm).
I hope this helps.
Last edited by ttg35fort; 04-14-2009 at 07:14 PM.
#31
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Bone freakin stock ![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I have plans on doing the whole 9, built engine, full fuel system, engine management, full exhaust, clutch setup, suspension ect. ect. but I've still got alot of research on which parts I want to buy.
Would like to have Forged tune the car as they aren't but a few hours from me.
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I have plans on doing the whole 9, built engine, full fuel system, engine management, full exhaust, clutch setup, suspension ect. ect. but I've still got alot of research on which parts I want to buy.
Would like to have Forged tune the car as they aren't but a few hours from me.
Doing everything at once will cut down on some of the labor costs, but can make tracking down issues a bit harder. Doing it in steps will allow you to get things sorted out as you add pieces to your build.
If I had it to do over again, I would consider just sitting down with your tuner (Sharif in this case) and going over all the components and costs involved and then drop off your car and back up a dumptruck full of money at Forged.... wait 8-10 weeks and pick up your monster. Then again, if I had to do it over with from the start I may have just stuck with my TN single and paid off my and the wife's cars and bought a new Range Rover Sport.
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