Snapped the fitting in the motor. Other solution for oil line? (Vortech help!)
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Snapped the fitting in the motor. Other solution for oil line? (Vortech help!)
Ok guys... I know! the title sounds confusing as hell... it even made me confused but i didnt know how else to put it in short words.... anyways!...
For those who know... with the vortech ( maybe its the same with the rest ).. I had to remove the oil pressure sensor, install the adapter into the engine block, followed by the TEE and the put the oil pressure sensor back in with the oil line going right under neath it.
The problem is.. that when I was trying to remove it.. the fitting SNAPED!!!
inside the block.... I thought ok, whatever... so I ran to home depot and got an " EZ out " tool... I proceeded to take the snapped fitting out and THEN!! the EZ-out.. SNAPED! too!! **** me!! 
... now im pretty much stuck!! The oil doesnt leak from there or anything either.. its so tight, it acts like a sealer..
I dont have much room to work there with anything.. and I doubt if i brought it at the shop they will be able to take it out.. this thing is stuck in there for good!
Heres a quick pick
my question is...
I have the AAM oil pan spacer.. and it already comes pre-tapped with a fitting ( thats supposed to be used for like oil temperate gauge )... I looked into it more and.. the adapter and the TEE fit perfectly fine there... Can I use that space to place the TEE and the oil pressure sensor???.. I need to get oil to the vortech somehow!
HELP!
I will take more pictures tomorrow of what exactly iam talking about..
Thanks a ton for any help!
For those who know... with the vortech ( maybe its the same with the rest ).. I had to remove the oil pressure sensor, install the adapter into the engine block, followed by the TEE and the put the oil pressure sensor back in with the oil line going right under neath it.
The problem is.. that when I was trying to remove it.. the fitting SNAPED!!!
inside the block.... I thought ok, whatever... so I ran to home depot and got an " EZ out " tool... I proceeded to take the snapped fitting out and THEN!! the EZ-out.. SNAPED! too!! **** me!! ... now im pretty much stuck!! The oil doesnt leak from there or anything either.. its so tight, it acts like a sealer..I dont have much room to work there with anything.. and I doubt if i brought it at the shop they will be able to take it out.. this thing is stuck in there for good!
Heres a quick pick
my question is...
I have the AAM oil pan spacer.. and it already comes pre-tapped with a fitting ( thats supposed to be used for like oil temperate gauge )... I looked into it more and.. the adapter and the TEE fit perfectly fine there... Can I use that space to place the TEE and the oil pressure sensor???.. I need to get oil to the vortech somehow!
HELP!
I will take more pictures tomorrow of what exactly iam talking about..
Thanks a ton for any help!
Pull engine............have machine shop/engine shop remove.
You pretty much have a foreign object that you "hope" is sealed in there good......your going about other means to get oil to the SC and then one day your gonna be driving down the road boast'n purdy and leak = engine no oil and boom.....
remember the block is ALum and the easy out is more likely tool steel, etc...their coef of thermal expansion are not the same, it will work free or leak down the road as you drive around and everything gets hot and expands/contracts..etc..
sucks i know...
-J
You pretty much have a foreign object that you "hope" is sealed in there good......your going about other means to get oil to the SC and then one day your gonna be driving down the road boast'n purdy and leak = engine no oil and boom.....
remember the block is ALum and the easy out is more likely tool steel, etc...their coef of thermal expansion are not the same, it will work free or leak down the road as you drive around and everything gets hot and expands/contracts..etc..
sucks i know...
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Aug 22, 2009 at 04:46 AM.
Pic sux, if I were you id try a vice.... I cant see wtf ur trying to remove..
There is a oil press sensor sandwich plate you need to buy ..... I got mine from FP....
There is a oil press sensor sandwich plate you need to buy ..... I got mine from FP....
Last edited by Jay'Z; Aug 22, 2009 at 06:06 AM.
I know exactly what you're talking about.
I'm not sure how you broke the ez out. Those are "supposed" to be hardened steel. Maybe it was a cheap knock off?
Anyways, you need to get the ezout out of the block so you can put a good one in it and back that fitting out. If you can get a new ezout in there then use a torch to heat up the block AROUND the fitting so it will expand and free the fitting. it works well on stuck bolts. Don't melt the aluminum, just make it hot before the fitting inside of it is hot.
As for the oil pan, you cannot put the pressure line there. That is only for returns. There is no pressure. Pressure must come from a sandwhich plate or from the pressure sensor side of the engine.
I'm not sure how you broke the ez out. Those are "supposed" to be hardened steel. Maybe it was a cheap knock off?
Anyways, you need to get the ezout out of the block so you can put a good one in it and back that fitting out. If you can get a new ezout in there then use a torch to heat up the block AROUND the fitting so it will expand and free the fitting. it works well on stuck bolts. Don't melt the aluminum, just make it hot before the fitting inside of it is hot.
As for the oil pan, you cannot put the pressure line there. That is only for returns. There is no pressure. Pressure must come from a sandwhich plate or from the pressure sensor side of the engine.
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From: Westchester NY
Pull engine............have machine shop/engine shop remove.
You pretty much have a foreign object that you "hope" is sealed in there good......your going about other means to get oil to the SC and then one day your gonna be driving down the road boast'n purdy and leak = engine no oil and boom.....
remember the block is ALum and the easy out is more likely tool steel, etc...their coef of thermal expansion are not the same, it will work free or leak down the road as you drive around and everything gets hot and expands/contracts..etc..
sucks i know...
-J
You pretty much have a foreign object that you "hope" is sealed in there good......your going about other means to get oil to the SC and then one day your gonna be driving down the road boast'n purdy and leak = engine no oil and boom.....
remember the block is ALum and the easy out is more likely tool steel, etc...their coef of thermal expansion are not the same, it will work free or leak down the road as you drive around and everything gets hot and expands/contracts..etc..
sucks i know...
-J
I know exactly what you're talking about.
I'm not sure how you broke the ez out. Those are "supposed" to be hardened steel. Maybe it was a cheap knock off?
Anyways, you need to get the ezout out of the block so you can put a good one in it and back that fitting out. If you can get a new ezout in there then use a torch to heat up the block AROUND the fitting so it will expand and free the fitting. it works well on stuck bolts. Don't melt the aluminum, just make it hot before the fitting inside of it is hot.
As for the oil pan, you cannot put the pressure line there. That is only for returns. There is no pressure. Pressure must come from a sandwhich plate or from the pressure sensor side of the engine.
I'm not sure how you broke the ez out. Those are "supposed" to be hardened steel. Maybe it was a cheap knock off?
Anyways, you need to get the ezout out of the block so you can put a good one in it and back that fitting out. If you can get a new ezout in there then use a torch to heat up the block AROUND the fitting so it will expand and free the fitting. it works well on stuck bolts. Don't melt the aluminum, just make it hot before the fitting inside of it is hot.
As for the oil pan, you cannot put the pressure line there. That is only for returns. There is no pressure. Pressure must come from a sandwhich plate or from the pressure sensor side of the engine.
Iam taking pictures right now.. and the ****ing fitting is tight in there.. I have tried to heat it up and everything... nothing works.... **** my life. Funny thing is that.. b4 this I was going to part out and trade the Z for a 335i coupe... and I decided to keep the Z for a while.. now this
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^ 
just what i figured happened.....You don't wanna leave those broken pieces in there and hope they "seal"...........
Looking for oil supply for your vortech else where and not fixing this would be a bad idea...
-J
just what i figured happened.....You don't wanna leave those broken pieces in there and hope they "seal"...........Looking for oil supply for your vortech else where and not fixing this would be a bad idea...
-J
Ya, there is no way to just drive with no oil in the vortech. Take the cog belt off the backside of the vortech so it doesn't spin and that solves the vortech problem.
I'm going to take a guess and say that no matter how wedged those things are in there it isn't making a water tight seal. At 80psi when you start the engine the oil will almost 100% leak out of that.
That's weird that the easy out snapped. I've removed many many bolts with those. You didn't have it on a drill or anything did you? They should be removed by slowly turning the pieces out.
So you've used a torch to heat up the area around the fitting red hot and still no turning? You will probably have to drill that ezout in order to get another one in. That will require a very hard drill bit.
fyi, those t fittings are JUNK. Brass cracks and they break all the time.
I'm going to take a guess and say that no matter how wedged those things are in there it isn't making a water tight seal. At 80psi when you start the engine the oil will almost 100% leak out of that.
That's weird that the easy out snapped. I've removed many many bolts with those. You didn't have it on a drill or anything did you? They should be removed by slowly turning the pieces out.
So you've used a torch to heat up the area around the fitting red hot and still no turning? You will probably have to drill that ezout in order to get another one in. That will require a very hard drill bit.
fyi, those t fittings are JUNK. Brass cracks and they break all the time.
Last edited by binder; Aug 22, 2009 at 06:54 AM.
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From: Westchester NY
Well I went to the shop.. and he couldnt do anything about it... He said I have to bring it back monday and see if he can take it out again... I have to leave it there for 3+ hrs..
He sealed it up though. So at least I dont have to worry about them getting loose and oil pouring everywhere!
I tapped the oil for the vortech in the spacer.. I drove it around and everything seems to be running fine ( I just rebuild the blower, so it sounds brand new ) .. but ofcourse I dont have oil pressure so the stock gauge is showing 0 .
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Ya, there is no way to just drive with no oil in the vortech. Take the cog belt off the backside of the vortech so it doesn't spin and that solves the vortech problem.
I'm going to take a guess and say that no matter how wedged those things are in there it isn't making a water tight seal. At 80psi when you start the engine the oil will almost 100% leak out of that.
That's weird that the easy out snapped. I've removed many many bolts with those. You didn't have it on a drill or anything did you? They should be removed by slowly turning the pieces out.
So you've used a torch to heat up the area around the fitting red hot and still no turning? You will probably have to drill that ezout in order to get another one in. That will require a very hard drill bit.
fyi, those t fittings are JUNK. Brass cracks and they break all the time.
I'm going to take a guess and say that no matter how wedged those things are in there it isn't making a water tight seal. At 80psi when you start the engine the oil will almost 100% leak out of that.
That's weird that the easy out snapped. I've removed many many bolts with those. You didn't have it on a drill or anything did you? They should be removed by slowly turning the pieces out.
So you've used a torch to heat up the area around the fitting red hot and still no turning? You will probably have to drill that ezout in order to get another one in. That will require a very hard drill bit.
fyi, those t fittings are JUNK. Brass cracks and they break all the time.
No i didnt drill it.. I was going as slowly as I possibly could.. it just snapped right in the end...
Nope no turning whats so ever.. its so tight its insane ... and there isnt much room to work with down there too, ya know.. so that makes it even harder.
I drove it around, no oil leaks
which spacer did you use to put pressure to the vortech? hopefully you mean an oil filter sandwich plate. Go ahead and tap that thing again and put your oil pressure sensor there.
They will probably just use a right angle drill kit with hardened bits to drill it out then find a way to back out the brass fitting.
They will probably just use a right angle drill kit with hardened bits to drill it out then find a way to back out the brass fitting.
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From: Westchester NY
which spacer did you use to put pressure to the vortech? hopefully you mean an oil filter sandwich plate. Go ahead and tap that thing again and put your oil pressure sensor there.
They will probably just use a right angle drill kit with hardened bits to drill it out then find a way to back out the brass fitting.
They will probably just use a right angle drill kit with hardened bits to drill it out then find a way to back out the brass fitting.
answered.
for anyone else the main answer was: NO, there is no pressure ports on an oil pan spacer. Pressure comes from the oil filter sandwich plate. Easily confused in text but 2 different things in different locations.
Removing the cog belt and driving low rpm will not hurt the car. It will run a little rich probably but that's about it. For a short drive this is no problem. I drove mine over an hour with the cog belt off to get my car home when I installed and no problems.
for anyone else the main answer was: NO, there is no pressure ports on an oil pan spacer. Pressure comes from the oil filter sandwich plate. Easily confused in text but 2 different things in different locations.
Removing the cog belt and driving low rpm will not hurt the car. It will run a little rich probably but that's about it. For a short drive this is no problem. I drove mine over an hour with the cog belt off to get my car home when I installed and no problems.
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From: Wichita , Ks
This may sound dumb but I have done this 2 times, once on a boosted celica and 2nd time one a vortech scion tc, using a copper T fitting just like the one in your picture. They break easy if over tight or if have bad angle when screwing in. Anyways I had a local shop take it out. The first time came to my house and used a drill tap to drill into it then back it out, I belive this is like the easyout but never used one. The second time it was stuck like yours and had to drill it out and re thread it. After that let oil drain though that spot and maybe good idead to drain all oil or drop pan clean out so no shavings are in the engine. Good luck.
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