Hi guys

I have a question about the famous actuator springs from the PE TT kit, which I am having fitted as we speak.

The kit itself comes with springs #3, I also supposedly have the stiffest springs #6 that I got from Sharif.

I was under the impression i needed the stiffest springs to get more boost=more power, and since I'm getting the engine rebuilt, I wanted to get as much as possible out of the turbos.

My builder is saying the stiffer springs are going to create "uncontrolled boost pressure" which is not what we want apparently, their first impressions being that these will not work as they seem to go coil-bound at the correct fitted length.

I am also installing a boost controller, but this doesn't seem to need to get into this equation.

My installer thinks we got the wrong springs, I can only get pics for comparison tomorrow.

All i want to know is
-what springs do I have to use to get most power out of the PE TT kit, having forged internals and how???
-What's the "risk" of running the std #3 springs and what power levels would we see with those?
-How difficult of a job is it to change those springs with the engine in situ, if needed?

see my build thread for pics of engine


I tried to ring Forged but Sharif is "busy", so I've emailed him and left my number too, hopefully either you guys (Cheston etc) with experience with this kit or Sharif (Sandy even said they've never fitted a PE kit before, I'm sure she must have been getting confused!!!) will help me out.


Thanks

 

We recently finished a rebuild for a customer with a blown engine and Power Enterprise TT kit. When the car came in we removed the engine and found one of the turbos completely destroyed as well as cracks in both headers. We installed new PE TT manifolds (which have been updated and are now cast) and new PE turbos (as the originals were not rebuildable). We had a hard time getting boost up high with a boost controller on the stock actuators, but I would not fear a stiff spring given the small size of the turbos. The max recorded was 13psi at lower rpm fading to 9-10psi on top end.

You can read more about the build and see dyno chart with different boost levels at our blog here:
http://www.injectedblog.com/2009/08/...erprise-build/

 

I had the upgraded springs on my PETT kit... and they would spike around 13 Ibs. .... i don't have the kit anymore or i'd gladly open it up and see if there are any markings as to lead to a distinction between the two sets. ( I did not have a lift when I installed mine but I can not see that making it any easier to change the springs when everything is installed )

 

Also using the Haltech mate, just to plug it


So Hal you are saying that provided we have the right #6 springs, the installer will be OK? The graph is with std springs?

Thanks!!

 

our supposed #6 springs have a blue marking on them.

Did you use a boost controller, did you use the #6 springs, did you have any issues with what my installer is concerned with?

 

i have the HKS EVC5 boost controller with #4 springs that got me to ~18psi.

how much boost are you looking for?

i'm running 8.8:1 cosworth internals..now with a freer flowing HFC..and im keeping the boost around 17-18.. i think they can run higher but i didnt want to since im now limited by my injector sizing.. (trying to goto 800cc now..)


on my old JE setup (8.5:1) on stock wastegate springs, i was limited to like 12psi on 2.25" test pipes.. with the boost controller set higher.. too many variables for a good comparison..

i dont know if that helps or not-

 

this is just confusing the heck out of me now....

All I wanted to know (from the beginning!) was if I needed higher rate springs in order to maximise power on a built engine with the PE TT kit.

I now have the #6 (allegedly) and the #3 (std): can someone tell me how do I get the most power for my build?


- Should I get the #6 installed? If so, why? How about the concerns raised by my installer?


- If not, why not? If I keep #3, aren't I going to get limited hp numbers like in Hal's install?



What should I tell my installer tomorrow morning?

 

Hi valerio. We have been dealing with 10 inches of rain in two days and I sent most of my staff home. I did speak with your intaller this morning and i am waiting on pictures to confirm and send to PE. But I am almost certain you have the right springs.

Hang in there.

 

Thanks Sharif, sounds like climate more appropriate to this country than Georgia!

How big a job is to change these with the engine in?

I'll tell Mark not to keep the #3 but delay the build until we have clarified this. He is worried about this "uncontrolled boost" as with the #6 springs he says the wastegates wouldn't open.


How have you dealt with this in the past?



Is there anyone out there with these springs? I'm just wondering why would PE even offer that specific stiffness of springs, if they won't work with the PE1420 turbos? Am I missing something?

 

these are the 2 types of springs I have, the bigger is supposedly the #6 one... there's a heck of a difference!

 

some technical details from my installer about the 2 springs...

"approximate critical information:

Original Spring New Spring

Free Length: 2.50” 2.125”

Coil binding length: 1.25” 0.500”

Pressure at 1.50”: 10 lbs 40 lbs



The new spring is substantially stronger than the original spring to the point where it is coil bound at the correct fitted length, which would provide uncontrolled boost pressure.

Standard (#3) spring pressure at full stroke is 10psi, whereas the replacement is 50psi (and coil bound) at full stroke which is a bit of a problem."



What do you guys make of it??

 

anyone???

 

ah well the fact that PE USA has shut down, has simplified things for me. Std springs then, let's see what I can get with them...

 

Hi Val, the 6 spring does not look right mate! The stock spring will get you 10 psi or so with a boost controller. Use that for braking the motor in and go from there mate!

 

yeah, I am checking some other contacts, and see if I can get a hold of PE Japan. For now, I think to avoid the delay just go with the regular spring.

 

Well considering what's been achieved with the std springs (450whp), I'll stick with those for now, bearing in mind I've neer wanted stpid power (I wouldn't have gone for the PE kit otherwise), just reliable power and drivability.


When the time comes to tune it after running in, I'll have the Cosworth plenum and either the 3.5" APS pipes or the 2.5" test pipes (have to decide between the pros and cons of the 2 parts)