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my 2011 and Beyond! build thread.

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Old May 31, 2011 | 04:05 PM
  #281  
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My Haltech is still waiting for diagnostics, Haltech is taking forever...fml
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Old May 31, 2011 | 04:15 PM
  #282  
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Originally Posted by dikspiel
I spoke with Haltech, will take 7-10 days before my EMS is put on the test bench. UGH
#1 rule of aftermarket F/I is patience my friend
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Old May 31, 2011 | 04:43 PM
  #283  
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so whats the contingency plan when Haltech says theres nothing wrong?
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Old May 31, 2011 | 04:56 PM
  #284  
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I hope that's not the case but what else could be causing the time to go nuts? Cam sensor? Oil pressure? Anything else?
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 05:55 PM
  #285  
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Custom APR Splitter for the ings+1 n-spec front bumper

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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 03:54 PM
  #286  
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I spoke with Haltech today, hopefully Thursday or Friday it will be tested. I also found that the majority of repairs for the Haltech for the 350z are done in Australia since Haltech USA doesn't normally carry the parts needed. The repair usually takes 1-2months. On top of that, the shop is asking if I can pick up my car since it is has been sitting there a month and they need to take space for other cars.

Since I don't want to put my car in storage, tow it back to LA, or wait 2 months to drive it, I ended up purchasing UpRev Osiris from GTM today. Unfortunately, Sam doesn't have any maps that are similar to my setup but since I am capable of driving my car to him he is kind enough to tweak an existing map so that works on my car free of charge so I can at least get around (Thanks Sam).

So the game plan is to install UpRev on Thursday, flash it with GTM's map for 600cc injectors, drive carefully over to GTM and have Sam tweak the map for my fuel injectors. Since my boost controller is linked to my haltech, I'm going to rely on the 8psi springs in the Tial wastegates. Also, my dual widebands won't be working since those are also linked to the Haltech. Does anyone see any major problems with this plan? I know its not ideal but I want to be able to just drive my car a little bit for the next 2 months. I'm aware it is going to be a rough tune and I won't be able to really hammer it but I'd rather invest money in the UpRev reflash then putting my car in storage for 2 months which is about 400-500 with towing.

Also its nice to know that once I get my Haltech back, I can continue to use the UpRev to disable any CEL's that aren't a concern.
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #287  
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if you have the guage, you dont need the haltech. just run power and ground to the controller.

I'd buy a manual boost controller as well for 50$ and run the boost up as well. no reason not to.

i bet after 2 months you wont have the desire to put the haltech back in. On a stock motor, uprev is just fine and probably better in some instances

Last edited by str8dum1; Jun 7, 2011 at 04:33 PM.
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 05:07 PM
  #288  
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Hah will see.

Initially I was planning on getting the Technosquare reflash and I had purchased an HKS EVC6 and HKS AFK. As of January, Technosquare no longer offers the reflash so I ended up selling my HKS AFK / EVC6 boost controller and bought the Haltech with dual wideband and boost solenoid. I doubt I will just stick with the UpRev I' guess will see in 2 months.
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 05:37 PM
  #289  
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Which Haltech dealer are you working with?
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 05:49 PM
  #290  
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RRR Dyno Tuning here in SoCal was the one who was attempting to tune the car (Haltech Certified). They sent it to Haltech USA which I believe is just Injected Performance if i'm not mistaken. I purchased the Haltech on the forum from a private individual brand new.
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 04:29 AM
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Haltech USA is not Injected Performance. You should have sent it directly to Hal at Dynosty/IP (if he was willing to accept the unit - I think he is still the primary US distributor and supporter). When I had a possible cable issue early on, Sharif sent it to Hal for inspection and everything was turned around in less than a week (got a brand new cable at no charge).

Last edited by rcdash; Jun 8, 2011 at 04:33 AM.
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 09:26 AM
  #292  
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Haltech USA is not Injected Performance. You should have sent it directly to Hal at Dynosty/IP (if he was willing to accept the unit - I think he is still the primary US distributor and supporter). When I had a possible cable issue early on, Sharif sent it to Hal for inspection and everything was turned around in less than a week (got a brand new cable at no charge).
I don't know why I thought that, I even checked the address you are correct. My shop sent it to Haltech USA.
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 12:27 PM
  #293  
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Update:

My Haltech was finally tested last week and it seems there is a problem with it. Will take another 4-6 weeks to repair since they have to send it to Australia. Cost to repair is normally $145 unless it is completely blown out which shouldn't be the case since it was partially working until it was pulled from my car.

So I was able to drive home on the UpRev using a generic 600cc map that Sam @ GTM hooked me up with. I then drove over to GTM on Saturday and Sam did me a huge favor and tuned my car for free on the street. Unfortunately, during tuning he found a problem with my car. When in vacuum bank 1 goes very lean according to the cars OEM AFR sensor. We aren't sure what the reason is but I am going to pull the injectors out this week and send them to DW for flow testing. Does any have any other ideas what could be causing this? 850cc injectors were brand new.

Last edited by dikspiel; Jun 14, 2011 at 12:28 PM.
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 05:14 PM
  #294  
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I would favor an exhaust leak near that sensor (at or just upstream). Sorry to hear about customer service from Haltech USA. I would find that unacceptable. Luckily you have an alternative, but for an EMS I would expect better...

Last edited by rcdash; Jun 14, 2011 at 05:17 PM.
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rcdash
I would favor an exhaust leak near that sensor (at or just upstream). Sorry to hear about customer service from Haltech USA. I would find that unacceptable. Luckily you have an alternative, but for an EMS I would expect better...
I agree about the customer service but there is nothing I can do about it. if it was an exhaust leak wouldn't it be effecting my AFR even when not in boost? My AFR is fine when driving driving below boost.
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by dikspiel
When in vacuum bank 1 goes very lean according to the cars OEM AFR sensor..
Originally Posted by dikspiel
if it was an exhaust leak wouldn't it be effecting my AFR even when not in boost? My AFR is fine when driving driving below boost.

Noob
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 07:57 PM
  #297  
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duplicate post, nm - see below - stupid laggy my350 server...

Last edited by rcdash; Jun 14, 2011 at 07:59 PM.
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 07:58 PM
  #298  
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lol. yeah u gotta tell us which one it is... Did you mean to say when in boost it goes lean? That would be bad and would NOT indicate an exhaust leak.
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 08:47 PM
  #299  
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Yes only in boost does my Air/Fuel go lean in bank 1, psh mid350z when not..happy? <3
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Old Jun 28, 2011 | 01:21 PM
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Dikspiel-

I am also in Cali and I have a TN charged 350Z. I barely drive it anymore being as that I laso have my Sentra and my M45 so I am planing on building the motor in a few years.

My dream would be to stay turbo on a built motor but I have already experienced the pain of getting popped and having to take everything off for a State Ref exam.

I guess you are still proceeding with your build so I have a few questions:

- Is this your daily driver?

- What happens if you get pulled over and given a state ref ticket? You are away that your WHOLE CAR must be in compliance, right? That means taking out your performance internals and everything

- What meausures are you taking to prevent getting a state ref ticket? Is your car going to be registered out of state or declared an off highway vehicle.

The 2nd installation of my turbo system was done by Sam (first was by Technosquare) and I have been talking to Sam on ideas. Do you realise that 90% of his business is now out-of-state business?

Sorry for all the questions but I want to look under every last stone before I go all-motor or built supercharger as I would LOVE to stay turbo.
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