Blown HR engine!!!!!!!!
We told you to get a built.
We told you, dont push you boost to much upwards.
We told you that in your videos the rattle/noise isnt normal.
We told you to check the engine light, which was "on" on your desk.
Good luck with your built.
Alex.
We told you, dont push you boost to much upwards.
We told you that in your videos the rattle/noise isnt normal.
We told you to check the engine light, which was "on" on your desk.
Good luck with your built.
Alex.
so who did the install and whats the deal with the tune..give all the details u have on this...how long has it been running with the TT's and what not, ever even check the a/f or anything?
anything being covered?
I am very sorry for what has happened with your build. But, welcome to the world of high performance...
Whenever you take a stock block and push it beyond the manufacturer's specifications, you are taking a risk, period. Sometimes this is going to happen. Nissan did not design these motors for FI, and I doubt they even tested them for FI. The components were designed for 330 hp at most, so when you take them beyond that, you are taking them into a realm they were never designed to operate at.
Some guys get lucky and/or are easy on the motor, and get descent milage out of them, but no one should expect that this will always be the case. Eventually a stock block with FI will fail. Of course, someone who pushes the motor hard will experience failure far sooner than someone who babies the motor.
Moral of the story, if you want to go FI, get a built block with an appropriate compression ratio and rods/pistons/bearings, etc. that are actually designed to handle the power you will be pushing.
As I have said before, and I will say again, the stock compression ratio is too high for a FI motor that is going to be driven hard. If you want to go FI, go very easy on the stock block, or get a built block with a lower compression ratio and components that are designed to handle the stress. Even then, things can and do go wrong.
Whenever you take a stock block and push it beyond the manufacturer's specifications, you are taking a risk, period. Sometimes this is going to happen. Nissan did not design these motors for FI, and I doubt they even tested them for FI. The components were designed for 330 hp at most, so when you take them beyond that, you are taking them into a realm they were never designed to operate at.
Some guys get lucky and/or are easy on the motor, and get descent milage out of them, but no one should expect that this will always be the case. Eventually a stock block with FI will fail. Of course, someone who pushes the motor hard will experience failure far sooner than someone who babies the motor.
Moral of the story, if you want to go FI, get a built block with an appropriate compression ratio and rods/pistons/bearings, etc. that are actually designed to handle the power you will be pushing.
As I have said before, and I will say again, the stock compression ratio is too high for a FI motor that is going to be driven hard. If you want to go FI, go very easy on the stock block, or get a built block with a lower compression ratio and components that are designed to handle the stress. Even then, things can and do go wrong.
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.But seriously, i do remember OP saying that his car was running perfect on that thread...And now...wow scary.. 
Sorry to seeing that OP.
What's with all the speculation and accusations? It was a stock HR motor running 8.5 lbs of boost and it let go. There are no guarantees. A bad tank of gas could've caused it. A weak rod could've caused it. Overheating could've caused it. There's no telling...
I'd take a GTM/UpRev reflash specifically designed for a HR motor/TT combo than taking it to a tuner unfamiliar with the VQ.
Sorry to hear OP. BTW, you'll need to get your turbos inspected and likely rebuilt.
I'd take a GTM/UpRev reflash specifically designed for a HR motor/TT combo than taking it to a tuner unfamiliar with the VQ.
Sorry to hear OP. BTW, you'll need to get your turbos inspected and likely rebuilt.
Let me start by sharing my condolences with the OP. However, there's always risk when taking a normally aspirated engine and adding forced induction. We can minimize the risk, but never eliminate it completely. Anyone doing this sort of thing must accept these facts.
If a customer comes to us asking for a guarantee on forced induction, we tell them to keep it stock. Even then, there are no guarantees, as we know of a couple people on another forum that have blown their motors with nothing more than exhausts and intakes. Having said that, we have done certain things in designing our turbo kits to try and mitigate the risks associated with forced induction. For example, our fuel system that we supply with our Turn Key kits is basic, simple, and effective at ensuring adequate fuel pressure. This system does not require a vacuum hose that could pop off and cause a fuel pressure drop. In the early testing of the system, we installed a fuel pressure gauge on our R&D car and the fuel system pressure was consistent all the way to redline. This fuel system has been proven to work very well and safely even though it is a returnless fuel system. Since we are using the factory ECU for tuning, the separate fuel trims for each individual cylinder to compensate for the returnless fuel system is retained.
When it comes to ignition timing, flashing the ECU ROM has been very consistent and reliable. Anybody who installs a forced induction kit should verify the Air/Fuel Ratio before ripping on the car. Even the timing values can be verified with a proper dyno test and the cable we supply with our turbo kits…that allows any parameter to be logged: Timing, Base Fuel Schedule, Water Temp, Air Temp, Wideband O2, MAF, etc. So if there is any problem with the install or even the tune, it can be detected and rectified accordingly. In a nutshell, if you install a turbo kit on a car, you put it on the dyno, verify the AFR, you verify the timing values to be safe for the application, what else can realistically be done? The risk can be minimized, but never be eliminated.
-GTM
If a customer comes to us asking for a guarantee on forced induction, we tell them to keep it stock. Even then, there are no guarantees, as we know of a couple people on another forum that have blown their motors with nothing more than exhausts and intakes. Having said that, we have done certain things in designing our turbo kits to try and mitigate the risks associated with forced induction. For example, our fuel system that we supply with our Turn Key kits is basic, simple, and effective at ensuring adequate fuel pressure. This system does not require a vacuum hose that could pop off and cause a fuel pressure drop. In the early testing of the system, we installed a fuel pressure gauge on our R&D car and the fuel system pressure was consistent all the way to redline. This fuel system has been proven to work very well and safely even though it is a returnless fuel system. Since we are using the factory ECU for tuning, the separate fuel trims for each individual cylinder to compensate for the returnless fuel system is retained.
When it comes to ignition timing, flashing the ECU ROM has been very consistent and reliable. Anybody who installs a forced induction kit should verify the Air/Fuel Ratio before ripping on the car. Even the timing values can be verified with a proper dyno test and the cable we supply with our turbo kits…that allows any parameter to be logged: Timing, Base Fuel Schedule, Water Temp, Air Temp, Wideband O2, MAF, etc. So if there is any problem with the install or even the tune, it can be detected and rectified accordingly. In a nutshell, if you install a turbo kit on a car, you put it on the dyno, verify the AFR, you verify the timing values to be safe for the application, what else can realistically be done? The risk can be minimized, but never be eliminated.
-GTM
absolutely...much safer for people like this for example who dont go get right on a dyno like they should...Then once they go get tuned decide if they wanna up the boost to say 8-9 psi...
The car was running great for the last 3-4 months/9k kilometers.
The AFR was 10.8-11.2 full throttle.
About the tune. There is no tuner here that knows how to tune VQ's around here. the nearest one is 900-1k kilometers witch is authorized HKS tuner but only tune HKS EMS's.
And beside its called "turn key" kit.
what is written in the installation manual:
I have never read or heard anything about retuning after re-flashing the ECU with the provided map.
what GTM wrote in anther thread :
I will be installing Haltec for the next motor (have to go to Bahrain or Kuwait to tune it 
) and hope to have better luck with it.
The AFR was 10.8-11.2 full throttle.
About the tune. There is no tuner here that knows how to tune VQ's around here. the nearest one is 900-1k kilometers witch is authorized HKS tuner but only tune HKS EMS's.
And beside its called "turn key" kit.
what is written in the installation manual:
Once completed your ECU is now tuned and ready to drive. This map is tuned up to 14 PSI
although it is recommended not to exceed 10 PSI for best engine longevity keep the boost at
8‐9PSI.
although it is recommended not to exceed 10 PSI for best engine longevity keep the boost at
8‐9PSI.
what GTM wrote in anther thread :
Recently we have sold several turn-key turbo kits, and this was a perfect test of much this kit is truly a turn key kit. We did not have to preform any tuning on this car, the tune was spot on, the graphs above show what you would get if you installed this kit yourself and flashed the ECU with the provided software/hardware.
) and hope to have better luck with it.
Looks like some pretty severe detonation, judging from the pitting/cracking of that piston in the pic. Unfortunately, you're probably victim of some bad fuel.. It's been happening a LOT, lately. The quality of gasoline in this country has gone to crap over the past year or so. Even sticking with the same gas station, isn't safe..
Travis
Travis
Last edited by Trav4011; Jan 13, 2010 at 07:02 PM.