Blown HR engine!!!!!!!!
01-13-2010, 07:15 PM
#61
Looks like some pretty severe detonation, judging from the pitting/cracking of that piston in the pic. Unfortunately, you're probably victim of some bad fuel.. It's been happening a LOT, lately. The quality of gasoline in this country has gone to crap over the past year or so. Even sticking with the same gas station, isn't safe..
Travis
Travis
01-13-2010, 07:35 PM
#64
I wasn't pushing it, I was only running 8.5psi.
The rattle you talking about was from shifting (the cam mic magnified that)
The check engine light was from P 1078 code witch I fixed (changed the Exhaust valve timing control position sensor (bank 1)).
Thanks any way
01-13-2010, 07:38 PM
#65
In a nutshell, get a tune...you can't 100% rely on a reflash on engines that will have varying amount of differences, particularly when you're boosting...
When it comes to ignition timing, flashing the ECU ROM has been very consistent and reliable. Anybody who installs a forced induction kit should verify the Air/Fuel Ratio before ripping on the car. Even the timing values can be verified with a proper dyno test and the cable we supply with our turbo kits…that allows any parameter to be logged: Timing, Base Fuel Schedule, Water Temp, Air Temp, Wideband O2, MAF, etc. So if there is any problem with the install or even the tune, it can be detected and rectified accordingly. In a nutshell, if you install a turbo kit on a car, you put it on the dyno, verify the AFR, you verify the timing values to be safe for the application, what else can realistically be done? The risk can be minimized, but never be eliminated.
-GTM
When it comes to ignition timing, flashing the ECU ROM has been very consistent and reliable. Anybody who installs a forced induction kit should verify the Air/Fuel Ratio before ripping on the car. Even the timing values can be verified with a proper dyno test and the cable we supply with our turbo kits…that allows any parameter to be logged: Timing, Base Fuel Schedule, Water Temp, Air Temp, Wideband O2, MAF, etc. So if there is any problem with the install or even the tune, it can be detected and rectified accordingly. In a nutshell, if you install a turbo kit on a car, you put it on the dyno, verify the AFR, you verify the timing values to be safe for the application, what else can realistically be done? The risk can be minimized, but never be eliminated.
-GTM
01-13-2010, 08:06 PM
#66
Sorry to hear, that is complete disaster. You ALWAYS have to verify a flash, no two cars are EVER the same, so a flash on one car with exact mods on another car might not have the same results, its just how it is. Do you know if the motor was knocking at any moment or have anything to monitor knock?
My advice, if you dont have a tuner close to you, then learn how to tune yourself. That way you dont have to depend on a flash and be pushing the car hard blindly without knowing if its about to blow.
For how long did you have this setup?
My advice, if you dont have a tuner close to you, then learn how to tune yourself. That way you dont have to depend on a flash and be pushing the car hard blindly without knowing if its about to blow.
For how long did you have this setup?
01-13-2010, 08:25 PM
#67
I have never heard the car knocking, although I'm running open dumps (waiting for the re-circulating tubes to be send from GTM for almost a year now and I still don't get them but that's a different story)
thinking about ordering the GTM HR Full Return Fuel System but afraid of the loooong wait!!! (although they make topnotch products)
Had the setup for the last 3-4 months 9k kilometers.
thinking about ordering the GTM HR Full Return Fuel System but afraid of the loooong wait!!! (although they make topnotch products)
Had the setup for the last 3-4 months 9k kilometers.
Last edited by midz350; 01-13-2010 at 08:49 PM.
01-13-2010, 08:28 PM
#68
A real tune might not have guaranteed this wouldn't have happened, but it might have prevented or delayed it. Look on the bright side -- this should nudge you into making more power and pushing it harder after your build
Last edited by FineWine; 01-13-2010 at 08:29 PM.
01-13-2010, 08:44 PM
#69
The good thing that I was shopping around for wheels,body kit and suspension. so I have most of the budget to rebuild the engine, just need some nice discounts here and there for the the rest of the stuff
Last edited by midz350; 01-13-2010 at 08:45 PM.
01-13-2010, 09:32 PM
#72
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Sorry to see this happening.
was there any sign before this have happened!!!
what is the interval of oil change!!!! and when you do oil change, do you check your oil for any metal parts!!!!.
can you give us a more clear picture. i am in dubai and we can say its the same climate.
for me, i change the oil every 3000 KM not Miles. and i do have A/F ratio gauge, but am on a APS single turbokit+ Unichip tune,
am sure GTM will offer all the help possible, SAM never let me down in anything i asked him for and he was more than helpful. also his team and his products are Topnotch.
good luck buddy
was there any sign before this have happened!!!
what is the interval of oil change!!!! and when you do oil change, do you check your oil for any metal parts!!!!.
can you give us a more clear picture. i am in dubai and we can say its the same climate.
for me, i change the oil every 3000 KM not Miles. and i do have A/F ratio gauge, but am on a APS single turbokit+ Unichip tune,
am sure GTM will offer all the help possible, SAM never let me down in anything i asked him for and he was more than helpful. also his team and his products are Topnotch.
good luck buddy
01-13-2010, 09:42 PM
#73
Doing the oil changes every 3k-4k KM.and never notice any metals in the oil.
here is huge pics: just change the **** with f-u-c-k
http://imageshack album
And yea Sam is a great guy.
here is huge pics: just change the **** with f-u-c-k
http://imageshack album
And yea Sam is a great guy.
Last edited by midz350; 01-13-2010 at 09:44 PM.
01-14-2010, 01:07 AM
#74
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I see.. well, you never know. Obviously, this is an event that was caused by detonation, so, we can narrow it down to a few things.
Too much timing for the fuel being used at the current C/R and/or boost pressure
Fuel pump, or internal regulator problem, injector problem, or debris in the fuel system
Fuel map not set properly for given injector/MAF combo
Heat soak
In any event, I'd be looking for the cause, before I went and dumped 8-10K on a built motor. Good luck with your project!
Travis
Too much timing for the fuel being used at the current C/R and/or boost pressure
Fuel pump, or internal regulator problem, injector problem, or debris in the fuel system
Fuel map not set properly for given injector/MAF combo
Heat soak
In any event, I'd be looking for the cause, before I went and dumped 8-10K on a built motor. Good luck with your project!
Travis
01-14-2010, 03:05 AM
#75
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what went wrong is that the tune that u get is not good for KSA or even kuwait or any other place out the US cuz of the Differences in ٍsea level.
any change in the weather will affect. ...
any way good luck
any change in the weather will affect. ...
any way good luck
Last edited by SmallTuner; 01-14-2010 at 03:08 AM.
01-14-2010, 04:39 AM
#77
Attributing the failure to the tune is pure conjecture. The stock ECU corrects for environmental changes and Osiris can alter all of the tables. Given that Sam and Jared (both outstanding tuners) came up with the base tune, I would have full confidence in a UpRev reflash. Of course using the supplied cable to perform some periodic data logging under different environmental conditions to confirm AFR and timing are dialed in would be prudent.
Limitations of a reflash (no boost control or monitoring) obviously needs to be addressed with at least a gauge if not some external failsafe.
I think it is far more likely that the HR motors have variance in tolerances and just like the DE, some last longer than others when operated beyond spec.
Limitations of a reflash (no boost control or monitoring) obviously needs to be addressed with at least a gauge if not some external failsafe.
I think it is far more likely that the HR motors have variance in tolerances and just like the DE, some last longer than others when operated beyond spec.
Last edited by rcdash; 01-14-2010 at 04:44 AM.
01-14-2010, 04:55 AM
#78
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Attributing the failure to the tune is pure conjecture. The stock ECU corrects for environmental changes and Osiris can alter all of the tables. Given that Sam and Jared (both outstanding tuners) came up with the base tune, I would have full confidence in a UpRev reflash. Of course using the supplied cable to perform some periodic data logging under different environmental conditions to confirm AFR and timing are dialed in would be prudent.
Limitations of a reflash (no boost control or monitoring) obviously needs to be addressed with at least a gauge if not some external failsafe.
I think it is far more likely that the HR motors have variance in tolerances and just like the DE, some last longer than others when operated beyond spec.
Limitations of a reflash (no boost control or monitoring) obviously needs to be addressed with at least a gauge if not some external failsafe.
I think it is far more likely that the HR motors have variance in tolerances and just like the DE, some last longer than others when operated beyond spec.
still even if the flash is ok, its a flash.
allot of this happend here for cars made reflashs.
thats way i told 350z-900whp to fine tune his car when it gets to kuwait.
01-14-2010, 05:08 AM
#79
Certainly a GREAT deal depends on the quality of the reflash tune, but from what I have seen of Osiris vs say something like the Haltech, while there is no boost control or overboost protection per se, many of the other tables are all present. There is full and complete control of timing and fueling if you know what you are doing (and Sam are Jared are more than just competent tuners).
Sure the stock ECU does not have the resolution of a standalone and forget about knock control. Tuning for FI shouldn't come anywhere near the knock threshold, especially with a reflash. Though I'll give you that standalones are probably better for dialing in knock control for FI than a reflash. No argument there.
The fact is with a high compression stock motor + FI, there will be some greater risks. You tell me how you would discriminate something like overheating (coolant leak), versus a bad tank of gas (low octane), versus mechanical rod failure, versus a poor reflash. End result = too much stress for the stock motor and catastrophic failure.
Sure the stock ECU does not have the resolution of a standalone and forget about knock control. Tuning for FI shouldn't come anywhere near the knock threshold, especially with a reflash. Though I'll give you that standalones are probably better for dialing in knock control for FI than a reflash. No argument there.
The fact is with a high compression stock motor + FI, there will be some greater risks. You tell me how you would discriminate something like overheating (coolant leak), versus a bad tank of gas (low octane), versus mechanical rod failure, versus a poor reflash. End result = too much stress for the stock motor and catastrophic failure.
Last edited by rcdash; 01-14-2010 at 05:10 AM.
01-14-2010, 05:14 AM
#80
The price some people pay to play.
Its unfortunate but all part of the game.
Hope the future plans and $$$ to be spent work out better than this.
I actually know of a GTM car with a reflash that has been running 500whp strong for a little while now, so Im not gonna go blame GTM for this - can you believe it?
Its unfortunate but all part of the game.
Hope the future plans and $$$ to be spent work out better than this.
I actually know of a GTM car with a reflash that has been running 500whp strong for a little while now, so Im not gonna go blame GTM for this - can you believe it?
Last edited by Alberto; 01-14-2010 at 05:15 AM.