BC2 Cams - Idle and stalling (Haltech)
Thats quick reply. Thanks!!!
Another secondary problem/question....
I have the "03 with narrowband, so I've gotten the Haltech Dual Wideband and wanted to put them on only to find out that the dealer sold me the Silverbox 350z Haltech with Old Harness (without the pnp connector for the dual wideband).
Long story short.... We completed the tune without fixing the haltech widebands... I wanted to get the wideband wired up somewhere and put them in use. However, the tuner advised that I should have the haltech wideband calibrated against the tuneshop's wideband which they used to tune my car.
I was told it would require 1-2 hrs of dyno time for that...and of coz that means $$$$.
Question is...
Is it really necessary to calibrate against the tuneshop's wideband? What if I don't??
Another secondary problem/question....
I have the "03 with narrowband, so I've gotten the Haltech Dual Wideband and wanted to put them on only to find out that the dealer sold me the Silverbox 350z Haltech with Old Harness (without the pnp connector for the dual wideband).
Long story short.... We completed the tune without fixing the haltech widebands... I wanted to get the wideband wired up somewhere and put them in use. However, the tuner advised that I should have the haltech wideband calibrated against the tuneshop's wideband which they used to tune my car.
I was told it would require 1-2 hrs of dyno time for that...and of coz that means $$$$.
Question is...
Is it really necessary to calibrate against the tuneshop's wideband? What if I don't??
Also rcdash is correct - to help with idle, use copythrough ignition for idle/vacuum areas. You can enable/disable copythrough on a cell-by-cell basis by pressing the letter 'c' in the ignition-base table.
Feel free to email me with any questions.
str8dum1, Elperuano is correct. The prosport gauge, when wired correctly, does not work. It is advertised to use the same 0-5v 10-20 scale as the Haltech controller outputs, but it is off (0.5 to 2.0afr points). We have tested one as well.
Until a new gauge manufacturer is producing, using Haltech ECU Manager is the best bet to view air fuel ratios. This is convenient for tuning, and also because it can be set to automatically log when you go over xxxx rpm, or into boost, etc. This way, you can make a pull and then review AFR, rather than trying to watch a gauge while driving WOT.
Until a new gauge manufacturer is producing, using Haltech ECU Manager is the best bet to view air fuel ratios. This is convenient for tuning, and also because it can be set to automatically log when you go over xxxx rpm, or into boost, etc. This way, you can make a pull and then review AFR, rather than trying to watch a gauge while driving WOT.
Can you use a potentiometer and diode(s) on the ground or signal leads as a means of calibrating the prosport gauge? You should be able to modify offset and slope/gain if the gauge is at least linear... Schottky diodes can drop voltage a fixed amount with granularity as small as 0.2 volts I believe. Standard diodes provide a 0.7 volt drop.
Last edited by rcdash; Jun 9, 2010 at 10:35 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 507
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From: Davie
Put me down on the waiting list! Guess ima have to start carrying my laptop wit me in da car everywhere I go!
str8dum1, Elperuano is correct. The prosport gauge, when wired correctly, does not work. It is advertised to use the same 0-5v 10-20 scale as the Haltech controller outputs, but it is off (0.5 to 2.0afr points). We have tested one as well. Until a new gauge manufacturer is producing, using Haltech ECU Manager is the best bet to view air fuel ratios. This is convenient for tuning, and also because it can be set to automatically log when you go over xxxx rpm, or into boost, etc. This way, you can make a pull and then review AFR, rather than trying to watch a gauge while driving WOT.
Interesting. doesnt make sense why it would be off, since its just translating a linear 0-5V into a linear 10-20AFR.....
Hopefully Haltech gets a new gauge sourced soon!
An input/output box is still way more pressing though if Haltech wants to stay competitive.
Hopefully Haltech gets a new gauge sourced soon!
An input/output box is still way more pressing though if Haltech wants to stay competitive.
str8dum1, Elperuano is correct. The prosport gauge, when wired correctly, does not work. It is advertised to use the same 0-5v 10-20 scale as the Haltech controller outputs, but it is off (0.5 to 2.0afr points). We have tested one as well.
Until a new gauge manufacturer is producing, using Haltech ECU Manager is the best bet to view air fuel ratios. This is convenient for tuning, and also because it can be set to automatically log when you go over xxxx rpm, or into boost, etc. This way, you can make a pull and then review AFR, rather than trying to watch a gauge while driving WOT.
Until a new gauge manufacturer is producing, using Haltech ECU Manager is the best bet to view air fuel ratios. This is convenient for tuning, and also because it can be set to automatically log when you go over xxxx rpm, or into boost, etc. This way, you can make a pull and then review AFR, rather than trying to watch a gauge while driving WOT.
so i should prob just send mine back then huh? fn waste of 70$ and now i won't have anything to check my a/f at a glance for cruise to make sure it's not dumping stupid amoutns of fuel.
Is there no way to adjust it? $70 seems like a lot for a gauge that is so inaccurate. If it's consistently off, just add a standard diode (that has a voltage drop equivalent to the error) to the signal line and it should be fixed, no?
If it's unpredictably off, then the gauge is useless junk.
Saw this in another forum - looks like other folks have had trouble...
Others have had good luck with them. 
If it's unpredictably off, then the gauge is useless junk.
Saw this in another forum - looks like other folks have had trouble...
If anyone has any questions or concerns- just call us 727-572-9011 or email us sales@prosportgauges.com
Last edited by rcdash; Jun 9, 2010 at 01:06 PM.
interesting. i'll install it and see how it goes. I'll give them a call and let them know about this issue and find out if i can get my money back if it's junk. 70$ is a good chunk of change for a piece of junk so i wnat to make sure i can get my money back before i take it out of the box.
this is the wrong thread and i'm sorry but here is some info:
i spoke with prosport. They said the gauge is setup to be linear on these numbers:
0v=10
1v=12
2v=14
3v=16
4v=18
5v=20
and if there are issues then it must be a defective gauge. They said if the outputs from the wideband controller is putting that exact voltage to the gauge it will read those numbers. I'm gonna go get a potimeter at radioshack and do some testing on this tonight to see if mine is ok.
i spoke with prosport. They said the gauge is setup to be linear on these numbers:
0v=10
1v=12
2v=14
3v=16
4v=18
5v=20
and if there are issues then it must be a defective gauge. They said if the outputs from the wideband controller is putting that exact voltage to the gauge it will read those numbers. I'm gonna go get a potimeter at radioshack and do some testing on this tonight to see if mine is ok.
Hey if you're going to radio shack get a non polarized small capacitor like 0.01 uF. If the gauge electribuc are interfering with the signal, putting that in line might fix it. And if you don't need it, you can use it for the knock sensor listening port! 
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 507
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From: Davie
wtf... so to get this prosport gauge to work i needa McGyver this crap together? So $70 bucks for the gauge n extra maybe $20-30 in extra crap from Radio Shack?
I sure do hope Hal gets a manufacturer for the display gauge...
And sorry to OP cuz i just realized we hi-jacked his thread n got way off topic!
I sure do hope Hal gets a manufacturer for the display gauge...
And sorry to OP cuz i just realized we hi-jacked his thread n got way off topic!
I think the capacitor is only like a buck. lol. Worth a try. If Hal had trouble also that means there's some kind of signal level incompatibility with the controller. Capacitive isolation might resolve it.
i have capacitors.
i have some issues with my install though so gauge is taking the back burner. My twin turbo oil drains that were welded to my upper pan are right in the way of the charge pipe. big problem.....
i have some issues with my install though so gauge is taking the back burner. My twin turbo oil drains that were welded to my upper pan are right in the way of the charge pipe. big problem.....
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 145
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From: United Kingdom
Thanks rcdash and Hal@IP.
Idle like stock now after C the idling and below cells.
Another question
Do I have to C the fuel map for the idling cells too? Because I've noticed the following if I don't C the fuel map...
If I C the ignition map & fuel map for idling cells and below
Idle like stock, no problem
If I C the ignition map only
RPM 650-700 (A/C off) => engine knocking sound
RPM 700-750 (A/C on) => idle ok.
Idle like stock now after C the idling and below cells.
Another question
Do I have to C the fuel map for the idling cells too? Because I've noticed the following if I don't C the fuel map...
If I C the ignition map & fuel map for idling cells and below
Idle like stock, no problem
If I C the ignition map only
RPM 650-700 (A/C off) => engine knocking sound
RPM 700-750 (A/C on) => idle ok.
Thanks rcdash and Hal@IP.
Idle like stock now after C the idling and below cells.
Another question
Do I have to C the fuel map for the idling cells too? Because I've noticed the following if I don't C the fuel map...
If I C the ignition map & fuel map for idling cells and below
Idle like stock, no problem
If I C the ignition map only
RPM 650-700 (A/C off) => engine knocking sound
RPM 700-750 (A/C on) => idle ok.
Idle like stock now after C the idling and below cells.
Another question
Do I have to C the fuel map for the idling cells too? Because I've noticed the following if I don't C the fuel map...
If I C the ignition map & fuel map for idling cells and below
Idle like stock, no problem
If I C the ignition map only
RPM 650-700 (A/C off) => engine knocking sound
RPM 700-750 (A/C on) => idle ok.
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