Big boost?.. Was it worth it?
Clutches in cars like vette's/vipers are much larger diamter.
The stock T56 viper clutch (prior to the '08) hold 900rwtq on stock organic disc. But its like 12+inches in diamter.
Tom
The stock T56 viper clutch (prior to the '08) hold 900rwtq on stock organic disc. But its like 12+inches in diamter.
Tom
my biggest complaint... the freaking clutches to hold all the power. trying to daily drive around town with these grabby, no slip clutches is a nightmare. are the clutches in high horsepower factory cars just as unforgiving? lets say for instance a C6 Z06, is the clutch easy to drive?
I drove a 09 Z06 with intake, headers, and exhuast. The clutch was actually very easy to deal with. I had an easier time with it then my buddy's TT 04 Cobra
which was a calf workout.
which was a calf workout.
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,256
Likes: 0
From: Texas, Arizona,Cayman Island
Let me speak on behalf of the Porsche ...a stock 996 or 997 will NOT handle no where near 800 whp...Matter of fact... Not even 700whp. Trust me... I KNOW!!
If you think you could just add some bolt ons to a 996/997tt and turn up the boost.... Think again.!!! You think Porsche don't have a few issues when tampered with... Or as you all call it. "Modded"....in it's stock form it has it's problems.
For every 50k you spend on a G/Z....it will cost you 125k for a TT Porsche . For what I have spent on my G to reach 815 dd or 937 DJ...it would cost.... Well you get my point.
I chose to mod my G because i wanted to prove a point....long story..... But I can honestly say that my G has been to the dealer/Shop less than any car I have or have owned in stock form or in the form it is in now.
If you think you could just add some bolt ons to a 996/997tt and turn up the boost.... Think again.!!! You think Porsche don't have a few issues when tampered with... Or as you all call it. "Modded"....in it's stock form it has it's problems.
For every 50k you spend on a G/Z....it will cost you 125k for a TT Porsche . For what I have spent on my G to reach 815 dd or 937 DJ...it would cost.... Well you get my point.
I chose to mod my G because i wanted to prove a point....long story..... But I can honestly say that my G has been to the dealer/Shop less than any car I have or have owned in stock form or in the form it is in now.
Last edited by XKR; Mar 15, 2010 at 11:20 AM.
youve proven your point and its a one of kind with your signature on it. winner.
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,256
Likes: 0
From: Texas, Arizona,Cayman Island

I am just using the % difference that FP dyno puts out vs the DJ I use. here in town.... It's going on the DJ after ZDayz..
Last edited by XKR; Mar 15, 2010 at 07:11 PM.
If its modding a 996tt....invest in MAF's
Tom
Tom
I hear you Keith....it's amazing how some people thing that it's so easy to mod a Porsche . If you like getting rapped... Then modding a Porsche is the perfect car to mod
I am just using the % difference that FP dyno puts out vs the DJ I use. here in town.... It's going on the DJ after ZDayz..

I am just using the % difference that FP dyno puts out vs the DJ I use. here in town.... It's going on the DJ after ZDayz..
I'm not saying a Porsche is perfect car to mod... What was initially said was a built shortblock was better than a stock Porsche Turbo block. Which is false.. Porsche though are Very very expensive, do respond very well to about 650 and 700 would be complete max. I feel the only real advantage the Porsche has on the Z is that the Porsche is a more naturally balanced car in regards to performance, braking, and handling. I do feel a Z is better than most cars on the road due to it's dollar to overall package. Sure there are cars that are faster or some that handle better but very few have a little of everything and still manage to keep it reasonalble. The aftermarket steps in and levels the
Z up.
Z up.
The part that's worth it is you'll have an ear to ear grin while driving, the negative is the $ spent and time the car has to go to the shop when you have a problem. I agree with make sure you have a 2nd car since the car will be in the shop in the begining or if you have issues you have something to drive.
I got burned BAD but that's beside the point. I still have 2 Zs and I actually enjoy them with the light mods they have. I'm about to sell one and my little brother drives the other most of the time.
I was pushing over 500RHWP and while I don't want to be a bummer here I don't think it's worth the hassle on this car. You cannot put enough rubber in the rear to sustain safe traction. If you're looking for highway pulls, braggin rights, or stuck with this car then go for it but for the time you will invest and the headaches that you will suffer I say stay with a lower boost setup and enjoy. If you plan on time attacking or tracking the car anything over 450ish is worthless and will kill your times. I have since 3 other cars that produce lower RWHP and pull extremely better track times not to mention are completely enjoyable and the latest car only having cams, exhaust, intake, and suspension upgrade out performs every aspect of my boosted Z... Just my honest 2 cents, take it or leave it.
I was pushing over 500RHWP and while I don't want to be a bummer here I don't think it's worth the hassle on this car. You cannot put enough rubber in the rear to sustain safe traction. If you're looking for highway pulls, braggin rights, or stuck with this car then go for it but for the time you will invest and the headaches that you will suffer I say stay with a lower boost setup and enjoy. If you plan on time attacking or tracking the car anything over 450ish is worthless and will kill your times. I have since 3 other cars that produce lower RWHP and pull extremely better track times not to mention are completely enjoyable and the latest car only having cams, exhaust, intake, and suspension upgrade out performs every aspect of my boosted Z... Just my honest 2 cents, take it or leave it.
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,256
Likes: 0
From: Texas, Arizona,Cayman Island
^^^^ this is the way I look at it... If you are looking for 300whp.... Build a 500whp car....that plan has not let me down yet. Driving a car at it's max is just asking for it.
As far as what hp to use for autocross and Auto X.... With a good TC... Big hp is not a problem.
As far as what hp to use for autocross and Auto X.... With a good TC... Big hp is not a problem.
Last edited by XKR; Mar 17, 2010 at 03:16 AM.
Last edited by Chris@FsP; Mar 17, 2010 at 06:38 AM.
Well that is the philosophy Nissan and Toyota used for their flagship FI cars.
The Z32tt was a 400hp motor detuned to 300hp
And the Supra was a 500hp motor detuned to 320hp (actually it can hold a lot more than 500hp too).
Yea but we don't know the whole story with all those motors.....some shops straigt-up lied, some used inferior parts, some used inferior people to assemble those parts....all lead to failures in the end.
But like Mike said, if you are running your setup near its limits, something is bound to fail (I don't care what the platform is).
Tom
The Z32tt was a 400hp motor detuned to 300hp
And the Supra was a 500hp motor detuned to 320hp (actually it can hold a lot more than 500hp too).
Yea but we don't know the whole story with all those motors.....some shops straigt-up lied, some used inferior parts, some used inferior people to assemble those parts....all lead to failures in the end.
But like Mike said, if you are running your setup near its limits, something is bound to fail (I don't care what the platform is).
Tom



