95hp increase with a 3.12 pulley sounds right. I don't think there is any issue at all. His base dyno was 209hp so that's well below what other people are getting. I'm strongly thinking it's environmental issues. High heat, humidity of the area, and a HUGE factor people are forgetting is altitude. Depending his altitude his boost reading will be lower. Higher altitude=less density=less displayed boost. Technically it should be accounted for if the boost is referenced to zero at atmospheric pressure but i think that can still fluctuate.

also, it depends on where you are getting the boost reading. My boost gauge is off from what my haltech gets. Boost gauges can be off. If yours is off by 2psi then that means you are getting 9psi.

Again, i wouldn't worry about it, your net gain is 95 hp which is in the ballpark for everyone else that is using a 3.12 pulley. It woudln't hurt at all to run a larger intercooler. Lower intake temps=easier on the engine and less chance for detonation.

 

he has a 2.87 as far as I understand.. but still nice increase for 7 psi..

 

He said it was a 2.87.

Today I did a pull at 101* ambient temp and still put 12psi.

 

at sea level probably. i think he's higher elevation. I don't remember why, but i was thinking he mentioned in a thread somewhere that he was at a high elevation. If so, his boost will be lower.

 

Is his AT?

 

I thought of that, but apparently the highest peak in bahrain is only 440ft.

 

Its damn hot and humid there. Nice place though.

 

ok, i'll try to do that tomorrow if i get the chance to. cuz even tho i bought a shorter belt after seeing a slip, it still feels as tight/loose as the previous one (ability to twist it with 3 fingers to 90*).

hmm.. i think it's time to order couple of these belts. just incase.

sounds like a plan.. i'll do that too.

little correction, it's 95whp gains on 2.87"..

it isn't bad at all. but from what i've read during my research for the SC, my setup should produce a minimum of 150whp extra on DJ. which should at least bring my car upto 360whp ballpark at least.

weather is a huge factor. we're just the opposite of what you guys do. you enjoy ur cars in the summer, while they breakdown on us. and you store/stop using ur cars in winter, while it's when we enjoy it.

i'm at sea level, and i'm possitive that i have never seen terrains in Bahrain

yup...
and this year's summer isn't any cooler than the previous years.. i'm really doing the SC job @ the wrong time.

 

Just to let you know..

IAT = 42c to a maximum of 54c
Coolant temp = between 90c to a maximum of 92c

 

Okay... i did datalogging on Haltech this morning on my way to work.

This is totally different from what i can read on the gauges, and i really mean different.

Idle AFR is stable @ 14.7
AFR seems stable @ 14.7 during cruising
AFR goes to 13.0 @ WOT.
Boost is 9.3psi @ WOT @ 6,303rpm

This is what i see on the gauges:

Idle AFR is 12.6 - 14.0.
Cruising AFR @ 10.8 - 13.x
WOT AFR @ 10.0 - 10.x (it does blip over to 11.x, but most of it stays @ 10.x)
Boost is 7psi @ 6,200rpm

 

sounds like you need a rewire...

are the same sensors feeding both the gauges and the Haltech?

 

i doubt that.. because i have berk HFCs, which has the extra bungs. so most probably the mechanic installed each sensor separately..

 

What are your thoughts on this timing from my haltech.

xxpsi on vaccum = 30*
0psi = 18*
5psi = 17*
10psi = 16*
15psi = 15*
20psi = 14*

screenie of a log (run):

 

Don't hassle yourself with vac timing settings. Just run "c" for copy through and let the ecu control the timing for the vac map.

I would definitely change your 13:1 a/f. That's too high for boost. I wouldn't go over 12:1.

I don't remember if you're stock block or not. if so I would definitely drop timing a lot more than 1* at 15psi. I'm not even 15* timing at 15psi and i have a low compression build engine. Pull it way the hell back incase you overboost.

Also, it matters what rpm's these timing values are at. You can run more timing near redline than you can in the midrange.

 

He's be running 16* at 10psi ( which is about what he's pushing )...that's really not that high at all.

 

hmm, i was running 19* at 10psi on my vortech. This is also with a 9:1 compression engine and 100* intake temps.

at 140* intake temp that is pulled back to 16* timing. I figured since he's in a hot climate (120* ambient temps) his intake temps are probably going to be higher along with 10.3:1 compression he'll have a high chance for detonation. Especially with his 13:1 a/f. I don't fully remember but i thought over there he only had 92 octane fuel also.

Either way, it seems to be very close to the limit for a stock engine and detonation. I truthfully would pull it back a tad with the high intake temps he's probably seeing over there.

also, that 19* i ran (and 16* at 140* intake temps) was all the way up to the limit on hal's dyno. He pushed this built block as far as it would go.

 

A/F in the 13's is just ridiculous. But I don't see timing being a problem. I ran 20* of timing at 9-10psi when I was on the 3.12 pulley and never had an issue ( and I go wot 4-5 times a day ). Now I run about 16* at 12psi.

 

13:1 a/f on haltech map, but on A/F guage i see it @ 10.xx

i'll try to do datalogging tonight with cipher, just to compare results.

yes, i'm on a stock block. and the timing is set across the rpm. e.g. from 1k-9k rpm at 15psi is set on 15*... the same with 10psi is set on 16*.


-does the psi (5, 10, 15) on the haltech represent the boost i'm building up? if yes, then i should concentrate more on the 5 and 10, because i haven't seen more that 10psi on my boost guage.

-should i lower the timing on 5psi to 15*, and 10psi to 12*?

 

does retarding means lowering the number? i.e. from 16* to 14*? or is it from 16* to 18*?

we only have 93 and 91, and i'm only using 93 octane.

AF is what i'm seeing on Haltech logs. the AF guage shows something else.

i'm running the 2.87" pulley, so i'm not sure if i can adjust the timing.

the car threw couple of CELs 2 days ago (P0011, P0021, and P0175)..

the last code refers to the engine being rich. so, most probably what i read on the gauage is more accurate than what i'm getting from Haltech (because i think it's only reading the AF from the map and not anywhere else).

your thoughts?

 

which gauge and wideband are you using? Unless you have your haltech calibrated wrong, i would trust the haltech over any display gauge.

retard means reduce. so 16 down to 15 is retarding the timing. advancing means add. 16 up to 17 is advancing.

I wouldn't drop your 10psi down to 12. That's 4* timing reduction. That's a huge swing. If anything i would drop it 1* or so.

psi on the haltech is boost. It's also called "load" on there.

GTER, you also aren't taking into consideration your IAT's when you ran 20*. If he's seeing 150-160* intake temps (which is VERY possible with a 120* ambient outside temp) then he can't run near as much timing. Just going from 100* intake temp to 140* intake temp hal had to pull 3* of timing on mine to keep it from detonating. Intake temps make a big impact on the amount of timing that causes detonation.

Mahmood, datalogging with cipher will not be helpful for timing adjustments. Cipher will read the timing that the ecu is programmed to run which will be probably around mid 20's. The haltech doesn't send that signal to the engine though so you need to look at what the haltech is showing. THAT is what the engine sees.

Logging with cipher when running my haltech i was seeing 28* timing on my cipher which si the N/a timing for the ecu. Haltech then took over and said no, you will run someting else.