my SC Setup
okay! i wired up everything, and ready to be connected to the harness on the haltech..
1 problem tho......... i don't know to which one i should connect? and how to connect it?
1 problem tho......... i don't know to which one i should connect? and how to connect it?
Last edited by maXmood; Aug 21, 2010 at 05:15 AM.
dude, you're looking at outputs.
look in the haltech manual for the section on widebands. You're using the wrong plug completely.
http://www.injectedperformance.com/haltech/
look in the haltech manual for the section on widebands. You're using the wrong plug completely.
http://www.injectedperformance.com/haltech/
For those users without the built-in harness, they must wire the wideband into the main harness(Haltech). I would try contacting Injected to see if they could send you over a copy of the said instructions.
I just re-read the wideband instructions from Injected Performance. Apparently there are two versions of the harness available. One version has an input connector built-in to the harness, the other does not. Sounds like you don't have the version with the built in connector.
For those users without the built-in harness, they must wire the wideband into the main harness(Haltech). I would try contacting Injected to see if they could send you over a copy of the said instructions.
For those users without the built-in harness, they must wire the wideband into the main harness(Haltech). I would try contacting Injected to see if they could send you over a copy of the said instructions.
i wouldn't have known what exactly i have, because Haltech's manual isn't updated.. i got the silver one, while their manual is describing the red one.
i'm a learning enthusiast after all..
thanks for the input guys.. i'll keep you posted on how it goes.
Yep... binder is correct.! 
i got the correct harness, it's just i plugged into the wrong AMP..
i've followed the instructions on the link you posted, and was able to get the readings from both sensors.
i think Haltech should consider updating their stuff.
now it's time to get a better AFR targets.
i got the correct harness, it's just i plugged into the wrong AMP..
i've followed the instructions on the link you posted, and was able to get the readings from both sensors.
i think Haltech should consider updating their stuff.
now it's time to get a better AFR targets.
i have a question tho regarding the readings of DynoJet..
i'll make a new thread about it.
here it is: https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...n-reading.html
i'll make a new thread about it.
here it is: https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...n-reading.html
Last edited by maXmood; Aug 22, 2010 at 04:25 AM.
^hmmmm... they're ready for Haltech log viewer.
you can download it and then load them up.
try this from IP: http://www.injectedperformance.com/h...20(beta30).msi
if not, then this link for ECU Manager which includes the viewer: http://files.haltech.com/downloads/p..._4_release.zip
you can download it and then load them up.
try this from IP: http://www.injectedperformance.com/h...20(beta30).msi
if not, then this link for ECU Manager which includes the viewer: http://files.haltech.com/downloads/p..._4_release.zip
Last edited by maXmood; Aug 22, 2010 at 01:11 PM.
looks good. under 3600rpm you go really rich when you go WOT. sensor bottoms at 10.2 so you might even be richer than that. After 3600 your a/f is rock solid. timing looks great.
IDK what's going on with that first log but maybe you were spinning the wheels? the rpms were jumping all over the place. knock that crap off for logggin
it confuses the readers.
It also looks like the boost levels off a little in that first run near the top and gets kinda jumpy which means you are getting a leak somewhere or the belt was starting to slip. It should be a steady line all the way to redline. Since you said you know you have a leak i would think that might be the leak showing up there. I really didn't see it on other logs though but they were lower boost than the first one.
IDK what's going on with that first log but maybe you were spinning the wheels? the rpms were jumping all over the place. knock that crap off for logggin
it confuses the readers. It also looks like the boost levels off a little in that first run near the top and gets kinda jumpy which means you are getting a leak somewhere or the belt was starting to slip. It should be a steady line all the way to redline. Since you said you know you have a leak i would think that might be the leak showing up there. I really didn't see it on other logs though but they were lower boost than the first one.
good to hear a second opinion on the tune.. 
thanks.
yea, 1st run was wacky with all the stuff. i didn't wanna save it first, but then i thought something might interest someone, NOT!
exactly what i've noticed, @ WOT at low rpm, it goes pretty rich, i'll get the tuner to fix this (i'll see if i can do it before handing it over).
i still didn't tighten the plenum (where the leak is), cuz i'm waiting for my torque wrenches to arrive.
one problem tho, whenever i go WOT shifting through gears, it throws a code (P0175, System is rich, Bank 2) i'm not sure why this keeps coming up, but i need to find a solution to it.
now, you think adjusting the timing would give me better gains and would still be safe?
thanks.yea, 1st run was wacky with all the stuff. i didn't wanna save it first, but then i thought something might interest someone, NOT!
exactly what i've noticed, @ WOT at low rpm, it goes pretty rich, i'll get the tuner to fix this (i'll see if i can do it before handing it over).
i still didn't tighten the plenum (where the leak is), cuz i'm waiting for my torque wrenches to arrive.
one problem tho, whenever i go WOT shifting through gears, it throws a code (P0175, System is rich, Bank 2) i'm not sure why this keeps coming up, but i need to find a solution to it.
now, you think adjusting the timing would give me better gains and would still be safe?
until you can look at the tq curve on a dyno or listen for knock with a device i wouldn't touch the timing. Setting up knock thresholds on the haltech take forever. I've been working on mine all summer so don't expect to use that.
as for the wot fix just do a trace view in the datamanager and look at whre it's rich and pull some fuel. If you want it to be like 11.5 you just take 10.2/11.5 and that's the amount of difference you need to change it. That gets you .88 which is 88% so to make it 11.5 you need to raise it about 12% (increase the number in the cell 12). I'm not sure if i would go that much to start. I'd say start with like a 10% increase and then do a pull. Keeping it rich and slowing pulling fuel is always safest.
Don't touch antyhing at 3500 and above because it was good a/f.
also, when you do the plenum, take it all off and start from scratch and torque the bolts in proper sequence. Just tightening the loose ones will throw the balance off.
as for the wot fix just do a trace view in the datamanager and look at whre it's rich and pull some fuel. If you want it to be like 11.5 you just take 10.2/11.5 and that's the amount of difference you need to change it. That gets you .88 which is 88% so to make it 11.5 you need to raise it about 12% (increase the number in the cell 12). I'm not sure if i would go that much to start. I'd say start with like a 10% increase and then do a pull. Keeping it rich and slowing pulling fuel is always safest.
Don't touch antyhing at 3500 and above because it was good a/f.
also, when you do the plenum, take it all off and start from scratch and torque the bolts in proper sequence. Just tightening the loose ones will throw the balance off.
until you can look at the tq curve on a dyno or listen for knock with a device i wouldn't touch the timing. Setting up knock thresholds on the haltech take forever. I've been working on mine all summer so don't expect to use that.
as for the wot fix just do a trace view in the datamanager and look at whre it's rich and pull some fuel. If you want it to be like 11.5 you just take 10.2/11.5 and that's the amount of difference you need to change it. That gets you .88 which is 88% so to make it 11.5 you need to raise it about 12% (increase the number in the cell 12). I'm not sure if i would go that much to start. I'd say start with like a 10% increase and then do a pull. Keeping it rich and slowing pulling fuel is always safest.
Don't touch antyhing at 3500 and above because it was good a/f.
also, when you do the plenum, take it all off and start from scratch and torque the bolts in proper sequence. Just tightening the loose ones will throw the balance off.
as for the wot fix just do a trace view in the datamanager and look at whre it's rich and pull some fuel. If you want it to be like 11.5 you just take 10.2/11.5 and that's the amount of difference you need to change it. That gets you .88 which is 88% so to make it 11.5 you need to raise it about 12% (increase the number in the cell 12). I'm not sure if i would go that much to start. I'd say start with like a 10% increase and then do a pull. Keeping it rich and slowing pulling fuel is always safest.
Don't touch antyhing at 3500 and above because it was good a/f.
also, when you do the plenum, take it all off and start from scratch and torque the bolts in proper sequence. Just tightening the loose ones will throw the balance off.
i'll keep you posted..
