I regularly see over 160* of intake air temp if I do one or two pulls. Heck, single 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear run will get me to over 150*...in my very first pull. At these IAT I run the timing I mentioned before. Granted, I don't know what Maxmoods IAT's are. If he's seeing over 200* then I would agree he would have to be very conservative. But if he's seeing the same numbers I am...his timing seems fine to me.

I'm so anxious for my WMI to get here...lol.

 

ya, my thinking was the fact that we see up to 140's and 150's with an ambient temps in the 90's. He has ambient temps 30* higher than ours so i would expect his IAT's to be about 30* higher than ours. That's a pretty high IAT.

 

True...Maxmood...how are you IAT's?

 

Thanks for the input guys.. you keeping me busy reading

i'm using AEM EUGO gauge.. and i'm not sure if my haltech is calibrated or not. who should calibrate it? mechanic, tuner? can i do it by myself? how?

i did mention my AIT couple of times before, but here goes:
IAT = 42c (108F) to a maximum of 54c (129F)
Coolant temp = between 90c (194F) to a maximum of 92c (198F)

i got koyo rad + tranny/engine oil coolers

 

Set it like this:

Volts 0.00 5.00
AFR 10.0 20.0

 

please elaborate..

btw guys, i just found out a leak in the plenum (i have MD plenum spacer). i wiped the area clean and i'll give it a day or two to trace out the leak source.

plus, i've marked the belt+pulley to see if the belt is slipping.

 

I remember another member suggesting this, but couldn't figure if he was being sarcastic or not.. but honestly, I don't think it will help you at all..

1. the 3.12 pulley will spin, I think about 5 hole rounds before the mark on the belt is back to starting point.

2. I think it is "normal" for the belt to slip milimeters @ WOT, and you wouldn't be able to tell if it was "belt slip" or not..

not sure though?

EDIT: Still worth giving it a try..

 

come to think about it, you're correct.. i won't be able to match the mark unless it spins couple of times. but if it doesn't match up at all, then there must be a slip.

 

as I said worth giving it a try..

how do you like the 100hp increase.. I wish it was me.

 

100whp is fun, but not the whole fun.. i wish it reached my expectation (+360whp). dunno what's wrong.

 

so it's 120* outside and you are only getting 128* intake temps? how is that possible?

We need intake temps when you go WOT a few times in a row, not when you are at cruise.

about your haltech, you need to look in the aem manual and see what the aux output wire of the aem is and set those settings in the main menu of haltech (f4 button). I do'nt think the aem is 10-20 af. I think it's slightly different so check it and put those values in the haltech.

about the belt slip, it will be hard to tell, you won't know exactly how much it's slipping. It will always slip some. There is no way to have a serpentine belt system and not have any slip. It's designed TO slip for protection of the parts. So ya, you'll have movement of the line, the problem is, did that line move a little, or did it move so much that it made it all the way back around.

By the look of your boost log, it doesn't appear to be belt slip. You're building boost all the way to redline. If you had slip you'll see the boost line level off. It should always build boost if rpms go up.

So plenum leak would cause low psi and would still allow it to continuously build boost. Fix that boost leak.

 

eye agri

 

http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf

mahmood

open your map in haltech, click the f4 button to open the main menu then under wideband you enter the numbers they have in that chart for volts and a/f gasoline.

It appears these are some numbers you can plot:

0v=10.0 af
0.62v=11.24 a/f
2.34v=14.68 a/f
4.99v= 19.98 a/f


That should be enough to get it calibrated. If not you can put more points on to make sure it's linear.

Then your haltch should show what your uego shows and you can log it properly.

 

the AIT log is after 2 runs (logged with cipher).. i'll try to do couple of runs and get that logged.

boost is building up and it looks fine on haltech (9.3psi), but i'm not seeing the same on the boost gauge (7psi). so i'm not sure if there is a belt slip or not.

i just ordered a torque wrench especially for the plenum

 

thanks a bunch bro, i'm gonna do that and let you know how it goes.

 

never trust a gauge. Gauges can be wildly off. Go by what your haltech says.

My gauge reads higher than my haltech. The needle is probably off or something wacky. Who knows. Gauges are only a reference, not a tuning tool. You tune on your logged stuff that the ecu is using to calibrate your fuel.

 

binder, i entered the numbers/volts, in both widebands, saved it, rebooted the ecu, but i still can't see it logging the AF?

any idea which channels i should be logging?

i tried:

Calibrations - O2 wideband sensor 1 and 2
Fuel - Targert AFR
Special - Actual O2 value bank 1 and 2

 

Excuse my ignorance on your setup, but do you have your AEM UEGO serial output wire wired to one of the AUX inputs on the Haltech harness?

I am going to be installing my Haltech tomorrow. However, I will be using Haltech dual wide-bands. If you don't solve the problem tonight, I would be more than happy to help further with your "problem" tomorrow once mine is installed.

 

i'm not sure if this wa wired or not, because i'm not the one who installed the haltech..

let me know how it goes with you, i might try to follow your instructions if they're DIY.

thanks

 

ya, you have to have the aux output wire hooked to the wideband 1 input on the haltech harness.

I'm pretty sure the serial output is different than the aux output. Yep, just checked it, you want to use the aux output (WHITE WIRE) to the haltech input on wideband 1. Then go into the haltech menu and put those calibrations into the O2 1 sensor.

You will datalog Calibrated o2 sensor 1.