my SC Setup
I know that dyno is the stock one, but it shows a LOT of knock ( look at all the spikes ) which explains why power is so low.
Your car is a US vehicle, but that dyno was not done in the US ( it says Isa Town ). What fuel is available in Isa Town?
Your car is a US vehicle, but that dyno was not done in the US ( it says Isa Town ). What fuel is available in Isa Town?
I'm not sure why are you guys mixing up the stock dyno graph with my current issues? Car is running perfectly fine when it was stock. We even dyno'ed a 3.5L Altima that produced the same power.
Again, I don't think ignition timing was altered when it was stock.
And on top of that, I've done a compression test before even buying the SC kit and the results were all good.
Again, I don't think ignition timing was altered when it was stock.
And on top of that, I've done a compression test before even buying the SC kit and the results were all good.
I'm basing my thoughts on what is happening. You said extreme temps and no power. Detonation causes a severe loss in power and extreme temps. That would also no matter what level of boost produce lower power than the stock engine. If it was just a boost issue then it would produce at least stock power.
Now, you said you had a compressino check done BEFORE the supercharger. I'm talking about do a comp test and leak down NOW since i think the damage occured when your tuner first ran that beast on boost.
keep in mind that smoothing is set to zero in that dyno plot. most of the ones posted on here have smoothing set to five.
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,311
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From: Dallas/NewYork/Michigan/Korea
Sounds like you have a huge boost leak somewhere.
Also check your plugs for detonation. Did your tuner said something about dyno?
Post up dyno sheet or log, that way you can get much better advice than guessing advice.
Btw, you didn't search enough about AC line. I posted that on my other thread about AC line needs to wrap before install blower.!!!
Good luck and no worry take your time. And let's hope that its not something big issue.
Also check your plugs for detonation. Did your tuner said something about dyno?
Post up dyno sheet or log, that way you can get much better advice than guessing advice.
Btw, you didn't search enough about AC line. I posted that on my other thread about AC line needs to wrap before install blower.!!!
Good luck and no worry take your time. And let's hope that its not something big issue.
check some info about "Bahrain", you'll see how small it is. the fuel all around the country is the same, and we don't have stations that pumps any better fuel.
i'm not going on that dyno at all.
I'm basing my thoughts on what is happening. You said extreme temps and no power. Detonation causes a severe loss in power and extreme temps. That would also no matter what level of boost produce lower power than the stock engine. If it was just a boost issue then it would produce at least stock power.
Now, you said you had a compressino check done BEFORE the supercharger. I'm talking about do a comp test and leak down NOW since i think the damage occured when your tuner first ran that beast on boost.
I'm basing my thoughts on what is happening. You said extreme temps and no power. Detonation causes a severe loss in power and extreme temps. That would also no matter what level of boost produce lower power than the stock engine. If it was just a boost issue then it would produce at least stock power.
Now, you said you had a compressino check done BEFORE the supercharger. I'm talking about do a comp test and leak down NOW since i think the damage occured when your tuner first ran that beast on boost.
... and btw, the weather here is a killer.. humidity + hot = almost all year.we only got 2 seasons, summer and spring.. and summer is usually 9 months.
temps nowadays are about 100F, and once we're in Jul/Aug, we'll see 120F if not even more..
2- i'm actually getting more than stock power
(15whp on top of stock).. that's why i'm assuming it's more likely to be boost leak + slipage.3- if i'll have to do this, then it's gonna be done next week.. i'm not sure tho, because i'm driving the car 2-3 times a week, under boost, and everything seems like stock.
the dyno guy is actually a tuner, he didn't say anything about knocking.. along with my tuner too.. they both didn't mention anything about knocking.
is it possible to monitor knock with Osiris?
Last edited by maXmood; May 29, 2010 at 11:38 PM.
Sounds like you have a huge boost leak somewhere.
Also check your plugs for detonation. Did your tuner said something about dyno?
Post up dyno sheet or log, that way you can get much better advice than guessing advice.
Btw, you didn't search enough about AC line. I posted that on my other thread about AC line needs to wrap before install blower.!!!
Good luck and no worry take your time. And let's hope that its not something big issue.
Also check your plugs for detonation. Did your tuner said something about dyno?
Post up dyno sheet or log, that way you can get much better advice than guessing advice.
Btw, you didn't search enough about AC line. I posted that on my other thread about AC line needs to wrap before install blower.!!!
Good luck and no worry take your time. And let's hope that its not something big issue.
2- i'll have the plugs checked.. and no, he didn't comment on the dyno chart.
3- i didn't search "before" installing the SC kit, because it never came to my mind that it actually needs attention.. but i did search "after" being in the situation, and never got your thread!
i still need to fix the AC, it's killing me running in this sh!tty weather.
3- thanks! *fingers crossed*
to compensate on this matter, i'm gonna buy MS103 and mix it with my current fuel.
ok, if it's running better than stock i retract my statements.
if you're worried about octane, i would do a light meth kit or just do a water injection to help surpress detonation. MS 103 is around 70$ a can so 4 cans and you have your injection kit paid for. And if you just use distilled water injection you shouldn't have to change your tune so you won't have any issues if you run out of it when you're out driving.
There is a better way to route your oil drain so it gives more room for your a/c line. Under the supercharger there is a black plate held in place with 3 bolts. remove it. Run the drain straight backwards towards the fender and THEN down towards the oil pan. That way you aren't running it near the a/c pulley alongwith the a/c line. Then i used really long and flat zip ties around the frame rail and that a/c line to pull it away from the a/c pulley.
another note: don't put race fuel in that tank to tune the car. Once you run out of that fuel the car will be tuned for higher octane and you could damage your motor big time.
spark plugs are a great way to check knock. Look with a magnifying glass on the insulator for small grey or black specs. Those specs mean detonation.
if you're worried about octane, i would do a light meth kit or just do a water injection to help surpress detonation. MS 103 is around 70$ a can so 4 cans and you have your injection kit paid for. And if you just use distilled water injection you shouldn't have to change your tune so you won't have any issues if you run out of it when you're out driving.
There is a better way to route your oil drain so it gives more room for your a/c line. Under the supercharger there is a black plate held in place with 3 bolts. remove it. Run the drain straight backwards towards the fender and THEN down towards the oil pan. That way you aren't running it near the a/c pulley alongwith the a/c line. Then i used really long and flat zip ties around the frame rail and that a/c line to pull it away from the a/c pulley.
another note: don't put race fuel in that tank to tune the car. Once you run out of that fuel the car will be tuned for higher octane and you could damage your motor big time.
spark plugs are a great way to check knock. Look with a magnifying glass on the insulator for small grey or black specs. Those specs mean detonation.
Do you know if that rating is RON, MON or R+M/2 ( which is what we use here in the US )?
ok, if it's running better than stock i retract my statements.
if you're worried about octane, i would do a light meth kit or just do a water injection to help surpress detonation. MS 103 is around 70$ a can so 4 cans and you have your injection kit paid for. And if you just use distilled water injection you shouldn't have to change your tune so you won't have any issues if you run out of it when you're out driving.
There is a better way to route your oil drain so it gives more room for your a/c line. Under the supercharger there is a black plate held in place with 3 bolts. remove it. Run the drain straight backwards towards the fender and THEN down towards the oil pan. That way you aren't running it near the a/c pulley alongwith the a/c line. Then i used really long and flat zip ties around the frame rail and that a/c line to pull it away from the a/c pulley.
another note: don't put race fuel in that tank to tune the car. Once you run out of that fuel the car will be tuned for higher octane and you could damage your motor big time.
spark plugs are a great way to check knock. Look with a magnifying glass on the insulator for small grey or black specs. Those specs mean detonation.
if you're worried about octane, i would do a light meth kit or just do a water injection to help surpress detonation. MS 103 is around 70$ a can so 4 cans and you have your injection kit paid for. And if you just use distilled water injection you shouldn't have to change your tune so you won't have any issues if you run out of it when you're out driving.
There is a better way to route your oil drain so it gives more room for your a/c line. Under the supercharger there is a black plate held in place with 3 bolts. remove it. Run the drain straight backwards towards the fender and THEN down towards the oil pan. That way you aren't running it near the a/c pulley alongwith the a/c line. Then i used really long and flat zip ties around the frame rail and that a/c line to pull it away from the a/c pulley.
another note: don't put race fuel in that tank to tune the car. Once you run out of that fuel the car will be tuned for higher octane and you could damage your motor big time.
spark plugs are a great way to check knock. Look with a magnifying glass on the insulator for small grey or black specs. Those specs mean detonation.
what i'm thinking is, i'll just mix some 103 with my current fuel to have a better outcome from the system. i'm not gonna do full tank of 103, cuz just like you said, i don't want to be in a situation where i don't have anything near me.
about the AC line (high pressure hose), i got an AC repair shop to make a new hose that is longer and re-route it around the pipes. all good and i'm happy with that..
i received the belt yesterday, and i'm just waiting for the MAF to arrive so i can have both installed at the same time.
my question is, do i just replace the MAF and that's it? i mean, can i just carry on with the current tune till i get it fully tuned?
and what about the belt, once i replace it, i should see difference in boost and power? is it safe to carry on driving it with the current tune?
and our fuel is PON.. R+M/2 = PON
i gotta talk to Vince again about this. because i've seen the option on Osiris to change the MAF type, but not sure if it requires on site tuning or he can do it from abroad.
about the belt, i already don't drive on boost. i just drive on vaccum, because i'm afraid to go on boost on a not fully tuned map. it's tiring, but better safe than sorry.
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,311
Likes: 0
From: Dallas/NewYork/Michigan/Korea
Edit: Bigger housing or Modif sensor needs new tune. Even N/A.
Id would remove the cog belt if you are worry about getting on boost.
Id would remove the cog belt if you are worry about getting on boost.
Last edited by Chef-J; May 31, 2010 at 04:29 PM.