+1 on both of these. No reason to get all caught up in a number on a specific dyno. Go back in the winter or fall and get the number you want, if that's all you care about. Will cost you next to nothing for another dyno.

Also, this thread title should be closed, especially since the OP now admits he hit 500whp on pump gas.

 

Exactly the reason I will stop at a single walbro. IP usually net ~500-520 whp on a single walbro so I thought that would be my stopping point. I already have an cjm stage 2 and 800 cc injectors.

I have a question about Meth injection. Where the gain in power made? Timing or Increasing the Boost?

 

both if you inject enough

 

both.

you have to tune for it but you can advance timing due to higher octane along with increasing the boost due to the cooler air temps. Increasing boost won't really do a whole lot if you are already outside of the efficiency range of the turbo though.

most of meth is power due to advanced timing. meth decreases AIT along with increased octane are 2 reasons timing can be advanced.

 

If the AITs could be dropped, there may be a little room for increased boost. All I would like to achieve at this point is the 40-50 whp that I thought the kit would have achieved since I will be out of fuel by that point. What Meth kit would you recommend to achieve an extra 40-50hp without breaking the bank?

 

i guess cheaper kits with progressive controllers

snow stage 2
coolingmist varicool
aem


40-50hp is asking a lot for a turbo that's already out of its effeciency range (noted by the severe increase in IAT).

 

OP, just upgrade the turbo and sell the 35R

 

I am weighing out the cost to benefit ratio. If I can produce the extra hp with a ~$500 Meth kit that I can install and then Have IP do a simple retune that may only cost me an extra ~$100-200 vs $2000 turbo, have IP install that turbo since I couldn't drive the car to them if I change to turbo out first, and an $400-500 retune. I know the gt37 can product more power than the meth kit but I don't know if I will have enough fuel at that point and don't plan on buying an twin pump and upgrade lines from stage 1 to stage 3.

 

Keep in mind you could sell the 35r and you could drive it to injected as long as you stay out of boost.

 

yep, plus it won't cost you 2 grand out of your pocket if you sell your 35r or just upgrade the housing on the 35r to pull out some extra power.

 

IMHO just buy a precision t67 that will fit (bb if you want too). those things are gnarly good stuff. The amount of psi they take and still make power with is just mind boggling.

 

Just wondering, if i were to upgrade the turbo to a t67 could I keep all the piping that came with the original PL kit? What would have to be changed to run this bigger turbo? Is it just drop n play or would it require different piping n all?

 

should be the same if the flange is the same, and all the connectors are the same.

 

If I am understanding this thread correctly, the turbo itself is the limiting factor, not the piping.

Where would you sell a GT35R and how much could you get for it?

I think you could modify the intake pipe to connect to the intake of the GT37

It is still quite disappointing to see this kit unable to use a built motor without meth or race gas

 

how much longer does it take for a g37 to spool n hit full boost? What bout a t67?

 

+10000000 I wouldof been very upset if I bought this kit Ithinking I was gonna make 550whp+++ on 93 pump. I guess we truely find out the real numbers of kits when users put them to the limit. Good luck OP wish your performance wishes come true without costing you an arm and a leg.

 

This comment and this thread are ridiculous. Just because HIS kit with HIS build didn't make the power he wanted (it actually did), doesn't mean it can't be done. Several components of his build are limiting and have been mentioned. The kit has produced the power claimed by the manufacturer on multiple cars. He first said it WONT do 500whp, which it currently IS doing! Secondly, why would he NOT put in a couple gallons of 110 or C16 to see what the car puts down? that's like complaining that you can't get enough power on 87 and refusing to try 91/93! I assume he has more than a couple of dollars into his car, so he shouldn't go broke with a few gallons of Q16 even at $15/gallon. Proper advice from his original and current builder/tuner or even this forum or a friend or anyone would have helped this guy avoid a lot of heartache.

 

It's ridiculous to see people indulging such ignorance... as if it's realistic or reasonable/prudent to expect 500-550whp on a DD dyno (which equates to 550-600+whp on a DJ dyno) while using only pump gas with a turbo that maxes out at ~650whp on a DJ dyno with C16 fuel.

 

If you are needeing race gas or meth injection to get over 500wp on a non-DJ dyno, the turbo is being pushed passed its choke line. Here is what Garrett says about this:

"The Choke Line is the right hand boundary of the compressor map. For Garrett maps, the choke line is typically defined by the point where the efficiency drops below 58%. In addition to the rapid drop of compressor efficiency past this point, the turbo speed will also be approaching or exceeding the allowable limit. If your actual or predicted operation is beyond this limit, a larger compressor is necessary."

In other words, even if you can get the hp numbers, the turbo is going to have a shorter than expected life.

 

One more note, there are different versions of the GT3582R turbo. Some versions have a ported shroud, which shifts the choke line lower along the pressure ratio axis. This would help turbo efficiencey, and thus lower the IAT, in this particular case. In other words, it will help with the power issue.