F-con vs Haltech
This might be a n00b question since im still learnin the haltech but how much of a variable does weather play when tuning the car with the haltech and then lets say if u go run it at night? I know the haltech will always try to self adjust itself but how much and when is it necessary to actually re-tune cuz of temperature change, if thas even needed?
I got my tune in the hot a$$ afternoon when it was like 100' outside n even lil hotter in the closed shop of Japtrix and my a/f was pretty spot on at like 11.2-11.8 or so...
Tonite when I was runnin the car the a/f jumped up to like 12.2 or 12.4... But it was also like 68' tonite so the temperature change is actually quite different from the time i got the actual tune done..
Also not sure if since my kit is new down to the injectors n plugs n maybe its still "breaking" in or whatnot? Any info would appreciate.. Gonna try another WOT run tomorrow in the afternoon to see if anythin changes.
I got my tune in the hot a$$ afternoon when it was like 100' outside n even lil hotter in the closed shop of Japtrix and my a/f was pretty spot on at like 11.2-11.8 or so...
Tonite when I was runnin the car the a/f jumped up to like 12.2 or 12.4... But it was also like 68' tonite so the temperature change is actually quite different from the time i got the actual tune done..
Also not sure if since my kit is new down to the injectors n plugs n maybe its still "breaking" in or whatnot? Any info would appreciate.. Gonna try another WOT run tomorrow in the afternoon to see if anythin changes.
^ it only adjusts itself as well as your tuner setup the compensation tables....
There must be gains with cam timing adjustments. But, there were too many pulls done with small changes for me to capture the differences on the dyno from my last tune/ SO no hard data
There must be gains with cam timing adjustments. But, there were too many pulls done with small changes for me to capture the differences on the dyno from my last tune/ SO no hard data
This might be a n00b question since im still learnin the haltech but how much of a variable does weather play when tuning the car with the haltech and then lets say if u go run it at night? I know the haltech will always try to self adjust itself but how much and when is it necessary to actually re-tune cuz of temperature change, if thas even needed?
I got my tune in the hot a$$ afternoon when it was like 100' outside n even lil hotter in the closed shop of Japtrix and my a/f was pretty spot on at like 11.2-11.8 or so...
Tonite when I was runnin the car the a/f jumped up to like 12.2 or 12.4... But it was also like 68' tonite so the temperature change is actually quite different from the time i got the actual tune done..
Also not sure if since my kit is new down to the injectors n plugs n maybe its still "breaking" in or whatnot? Any info would appreciate.. Gonna try another WOT run tomorrow in the afternoon to see if anythin changes.
I got my tune in the hot a$$ afternoon when it was like 100' outside n even lil hotter in the closed shop of Japtrix and my a/f was pretty spot on at like 11.2-11.8 or so...
Tonite when I was runnin the car the a/f jumped up to like 12.2 or 12.4... But it was also like 68' tonite so the temperature change is actually quite different from the time i got the actual tune done..
Also not sure if since my kit is new down to the injectors n plugs n maybe its still "breaking" in or whatnot? Any info would appreciate.. Gonna try another WOT run tomorrow in the afternoon to see if anythin changes.
I know I already asked the question pertaining to the benefits of playing with the cam phasing, but the ablility to adjust cam phasing seems to be one of the significant features of the Haltech over the F-CON discussed herein. So, if it is a significant feature, I'm assuming that there are benefits to be had. Has anyone seen any benefits? If not, I think that particular feature is practically worthless. I would like to see a discussion of this from those that have played with cam phasing.
As I noted, one person that I trust has indicted that the stock phasing is optimum, but it is in my nature to continue to ask the question and ask for second opinions.
As I noted, one person that I trust has indicted that the stock phasing is optimum, but it is in my nature to continue to ask the question and ask for second opinions.

Cam phasing works in a very repeatable and methodical fashion. Intake cams are advanced gradually to the maximum towards trq peak, and then cam phasing is pulled all the way back to nearly zero degrees at redline. This leaves just a little bit of tweaking room available for a tuner to possibly get a little more power in the midrange. In short, the OEM cam phasing tables are just about perfect and there isn't a huge amount of power to be had with adjusting them further.
Now, if cam phasing is disable or not functioning at all you will absolutely destroy your midrange.
Hey Terry,
Cam phasing works in a very repeatable and methodical fashion. Intake cams are advanced gradually to the maximum towards trq peak, and then cam phasing is pulled all the way back to nearly zero degrees at redline. This leaves just a little bit of tweaking room available for a tuner to possibly get a little more power in the midrange. In short, the OEM cam phasing tables are just about perfect and there isn't a huge amount of power to be had with adjusting them further.
Now, if cam phasing is disable or not functioning at all you will absolutely destroy your midrange.
Cam phasing works in a very repeatable and methodical fashion. Intake cams are advanced gradually to the maximum towards trq peak, and then cam phasing is pulled all the way back to nearly zero degrees at redline. This leaves just a little bit of tweaking room available for a tuner to possibly get a little more power in the midrange. In short, the OEM cam phasing tables are just about perfect and there isn't a huge amount of power to be had with adjusting them further.
Now, if cam phasing is disable or not functioning at all you will absolutely destroy your midrange.
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