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There is a scuff mark on the timing cover (pic one top center), not sure from what, but the mark could not be seen with the plenum on. I had no idea it was there till I looked at the picture.
Need a little help. Does anyone know how I can remove the crank pulley with the car already on jack stands and the driveshaft removed? I want to sell my fluidampner pulley as soon as I can get it off the car.
Need a little help. Does anyone know how I can remove the crank pulley with the car already on jack stands and the driveshaft removed? I want to sell my fluidampner pulley as soon as I can get it off the car.
Use a oil remover tool but the one with the chains and a rag wrapped around the pulley and hit it with a impact gun. You can also try doing this with a belt of sort.
On my sons car I had to take off the pulley and had to construct my own tool to hold the crank from turning
Some thing like this
If you got the new style like mine
I wonder if it's possible to put a socket on the pulleys for the cams so the motor won't turn
and you can get the pulley off
I have the valve covers off and can get a 24mm wrench on the pass side cam and use the side of the car to stop its progress, but I was worried I would snap the cam before the bolt gave way
I have the valve covers off and can get a 24mm wrench on the pass side cam and use the side of the car to stop its progress, but I was worried I would snap the cam before the bolt gave way
You should be fine, just hold the cam, and the first time the impact hits (assuming you have a decent impact) it will likely break loose.
I had a brutal time removing mine, but if you can remove the starter, apparently there is a tool you can jam in there to lock everything up. It also helped to put the torch to the bolt.
I had a brutal time removing mine, but if you can remove the starter, apparently there is a tool you can jam in there to lock everything up. It also helped to put the torch to the bolt.
I would not put a torch to the bolt. This will cause it to expand and make it even harder to pull out.
When using heat to remove a stubborn bolt, you always heat the female side of the thread and not the bolt itself. In this case it is not possible because you would heave to heat the crank.
- no torch as the dampner is what I want to sell and I want it to be in pristine condition.
I just tried the breaker bar and starter trick... no dice. The bar got to the frame and just stopped
If I put the driveshaft back on will the parking brake give me the resistance I need to break this loose? I just don't want to do that work for nothing, its bad enough I already re-installed the starter for the last attempt. Stupid blue pile of FAIL!!
give the breaker bar a couple inches of slack from the frame rail and try the starter a couple times, it worked for mine when an impact was not availible.
Last edited by Sylvan Lake V35; May 17, 2011 at 03:44 PM.
When I have a stubborn bolt like that I use the breaker and I take the upper half of the shaft for the hydraulic jack and put it over the breaker bar (Basically making the breaker bar longer) to give it more leverage and usually it pops right out
give the breaker bar a couple inches of slack from the frame rail and try the starter a couple times, it worked for mine when an impact was not availible.
I will try this in the morning, thanks gord
Glex - the bar is already 3' long. Its not that I don't have the leverage, its that I don't have anything giving the engine resistance against turning.
If Gord's idea doesn't work I will put the driveshaft back in and try it that way or see if someone local has some serious air tools and a portable compressor.
Ingersoll rand thunder gun(sp?) i had one worked as good as my bosses snap on but cost me only $240 on the tool truck when they first came out(think stores where about 300 at the time) i guarantee you it will take the bolt out np if you have the air supply for it. used to snap shackle bolts on ford rangers when the shackle would snap since the bolt wouldnt come out.(about 1 inch bolts)