This thread is only to those who currently own or previously have owned an IPP shortblock. I am running the stage 1 shortblock offered from IPP in my current build. I have been having issues with extreme blow by (filling up the catch can with oil from the pcv after only a handfull of pulls @ my current 18psi setting) I am running a second catch can to the drivers side breather and the 2 breathers connecting the valve covers and am getting 0 oil in that can. So all of my blow by is coming only from the pcv into the catch can which is vent to atmosphere. I do not know what the cause could be other then weak/bad rings that could have occured when the dealership beat on my car untuned (another story). Has anyone had this problem before with an IPP motor or is this an issolated incident? Also if anyone could think of anything else about what could be causing the blow by and how to cure it thatd be great....well becides the obvious of re-ringing the motor which is probably the only cure. At this point its a little worrying to me the amount of blow by and has me worried to turn the boost up anymore, because really what would be the point? Any use info is much appreciated!
Thanks

 

How is the catch can on the pass side routed? Any smoke out the exhaust?

 

Catch can on pass side goes pvc to catch can to atmoshphere/filter it never goes back into the intake system of the car. I have no smoking issues at all.

 

When I had my catch can vented to atmosphere, I collected insane amounts of oil in short amounts of time. I've since re-routed the catch can into one of the turbochargers intake tubes, and the amount of oil in the can has dramatically went down.

 

I had it that way originally and the catch can literally overflowed and sucked oil into the turbo/intake system. I was able to literally pour oil out of my i/c pipes and since switched to the setup I have now....isnt looking good for a simple fix i guess

 

That's no good. I guess a compression test is in order!

 

Forgot to mention that. I did a compression test on the motor and the results were as follows. Drivers side: 145, 140, 138 Pass side: 14, 130, 128. Those numbers are horrible and I figured something was wrong at that point. I then added a drop of oil into each chamber and let it sit. I re-tested the car and the numbers were as follows. Drivers: 151, 145, 148 Pass side: 145, 149, 141 Now I figured the numbers were low the first time due to a possible cylinder wash from a horrible tune that was hitting 10 flat on the a/f gauge. Or could it have been that the oil add in the chamber helped seal the rings?

 

adding oil and then having better # is a sign of worn rings. how many miles on the motor?

YOu always here stories about poor breakin leading to this kinda problem..

 

The motor has under 1000 miles. Im assuming the rings are what is damaged. I think the cause of the damage is when I first had it on the road I took it to a local nissan dealership to have an alignment done and have the a/c recharged. I told them no test drives of the car. When I came back I found that the evc had read 10.6psi peak hold. So someone drove the car and also took it into boost with only 78 miles on a the new motor. Ive been fearing ever since the rings were bad, guess I just coming to terms with it now......can worn rings lead to a motor failing? Also at this point what do i do?

 

Get leakdown #s to complete your documentation. Looks like clearances are off. Document your break in procedure. Talk to Kyle.

 

Sounds like there is definitely something going on with cylinders 3 and 5. The rest of the numbers don't seem THAT bad considering you have a low compression motor and presumably the test was done cold.

Any signs of oil on those plugs?

 

nah not usually, just burn oil and cause blowby. Rings and seals are so worn in my DD that i burn a couple quarts every few hundred miles. but the car drives perfectly.

Did you get a copy of your clearances when the motor was built? Maybe it was too loose from the getgo. Otherwise, it would need to be refreshed, possible hone with rings/pistons to match if specs change too much

 

The motor hasn't failed if it's running but based on your compression, 1 cylinder is essentially dead (assuming 14 is the real # and not short for 14x). The fact that compression went up dramatically in the 1 cylinder is also indicative of this. If this is not the case, the compression is not all that bad. I don't know what you used to test it but you're typically looking for 10% or less difference. Could also do a leakdown to confirm the static compression findings.

Rings need a little while to seat, though everyone's practices are different. Typically, at least 500 miles, often more , with varying speed and rpm and minimal boost. Ask Kyle what he suggests, as there are alot of variables

the motor would need to be torn back down at this point if the rings are indeed failing

 

Yea the test were done with the motor cold. The plugs were blackish and looked more like the car was running rich? Maybe Im wrong on the assumption?

 

yea that was my fault, meant to be 140

 

gotcha

do a leakdown IMHO

 

ugh when would you like to go back to the stealership and blow it up.....sry to read these posts man....

 

I have never performed a leakdown test before nor do I have one. Ill have to check with a local shop, they hopefully have one, theyre a honda shop ha. One idea I had though that Im not sure about it routing the catch can to drain back into the oil pan. Would that be an alright solution to the oil building up in the can?

 

Leakdown test is the very first step you must take to diagnosing this. If you have high leakdown then the only fix is a rebuild. While improper clearances from the get go is always a possibility... It's somewhat unlikely as piston to wall clearance and ring clearance is bread and butter work for a machine shop so it's rare a decent one will mess that up.

Possibilities; rings taken excessive time to break in (not typical but possible). Too tight of ring gaps causing rings to butt and crack. Too loose of ring gaps allowing excessive blowby (crappy situation but not worth a rebuild). Washed out rings and hone from excessively rich tune at idle and cruise. Melted/cracked piston ring glands from bad timing tune or leaning out under high load or fuel starvation at low tank level. Too tight of piston/wall clearance causing the pistons to scrub the hone out. Too loose of piston/wall allowing excessive piston rock and poor ring sealing angle (this one would sound like a diesel truck at idle). Engine overheated causing piston scrub and/or cyl out-of-round, wiping out ring sealing.

A very unlikely case for VQs; damaged / missing baffles in valvecovers allowing excessive cylinder head windage liquid oil to escape.

Just some thoughts as I forum on my phone while having some cold ones.

 

If it helps comfort you at all, I have confirmed 3 damaged pistons in my old short block and it pushes zero pcv oil... So hopefully your issue is far different.