Call all current and pervious owners of IPP shortblocks....blow by issues?
06-25-2010 | 10:56 AM
#41
Sorry to hear. Very sorry to hear... Reminds me why I only trust a few people with my car. My Dad, myself, and GTM.
And whoever told you that a 13psi map will work with 18psi is BS lazy pos. Which you were proly running the 13psi map = rich a/f because he's a lazy &*%$.
I dont exactly why a rich tune on a breakin would be so bad though. If someone could explain. I would say better rich and lean, but what do I know.
And whoever told you that a 13psi map will work with 18psi is BS lazy pos. Which you were proly running the 13psi map = rich a/f because he's a lazy &*%$.
I dont exactly why a rich tune on a breakin would be so bad though. If someone could explain. I would say better rich and lean, but what do I know.
06-25-2010 | 12:26 PM
#42
athenG is correct. With enough resolution, since you tune by load vs rpm, you can have a single fuel and timing map across the entire boost range. Boost settings determine the target PSI - that's it. I don't know how rich the tune was, but the risk to be wary of is cylinder wash, particularly during the time when rings need to seat. Every builder has their recommendation for break in. Not sure who the builder was here. Sharif breaks engines in on the dyno, so there is no opportunity for a customer to mess up after pick up. It's ready to go.
06-25-2010 | 09:05 PM
#43
I still owe you a phone call don't I Jon?
If the issue is in fact the rings, I wouldn't blame the low number of miles on the odometer when the dealership boosted it, I would be looking at an incomplete tune washing down the cylinder walls. I still agree with you about the dealership incident though, the neglect of the tech (and possible 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear pull , will we ever know the truth?) could have easily caused your current issue.
This lets the rings wear (polish) the crosshatch off of the cylinder walls before the rings themselves seat. Once the crosshatch is smooth, ring seating stops. There is an old hot rod trick that involves dusting Bon Ami powder through the engine while it is operating. I might try something like that in my red car, but I wouldn't try it on an engine that I don't plan to refresh once a year.
I'll try to remember to call tomorrow.
If the issue is in fact the rings, I wouldn't blame the low number of miles on the odometer when the dealership boosted it, I would be looking at an incomplete tune washing down the cylinder walls. I still agree with you about the dealership incident though, the neglect of the tech (and possible 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear pull , will we ever know the truth?) could have easily caused your current issue.
This lets the rings wear (polish) the crosshatch off of the cylinder walls before the rings themselves seat. Once the crosshatch is smooth, ring seating stops. There is an old hot rod trick that involves dusting Bon Ami powder through the engine while it is operating. I might try something like that in my red car, but I wouldn't try it on an engine that I don't plan to refresh once a year.
I'll try to remember to call tomorrow.
Last edited by BlinkerFluid; 06-25-2010 at 09:14 PM.
06-26-2010 | 05:27 AM
#44
Jesse, if your off guards today, Jon and I may be pulling the engine out of my paperweight today if you want to come by.
Good Luck on the leakdown this morning Jon. Talk to you later.
Good Luck on the leakdown this morning Jon. Talk to you later.
06-26-2010 | 01:24 PM
#45
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Ok just got back from doing the leakdown test and here are the results. Drives side: 91%, 94%, 94% Pass side: 90%, 95%, 93%. So it seems that the leakdown showed the motor is in fairly good shape....or atleast that is what I was told from everyone at the shop. So while I can now sleep better tonight knowing the motor was infact not damaged from that dbag nissan tech, it still leaves me with the unanswered question of how in the heck Im getting so much blow by. so again....any ideas? 
06-28-2010 | 07:39 AM
#46
The motor hasn't failed if it's running but based on your compression, 1 cylinder is essentially dead (assuming 14 is the real # and not short for 14x). The fact that compression went up dramatically in the 1 cylinder is also indicative of this. If this is not the case, the compression is not all that bad. I don't know what you used to test it but you're typically looking for 10% or less difference. Could also do a leakdown to confirm the static compression findings.
Rings need a little while to seat, though everyone's practices are different. Typically, at least 500 miles, often more , with varying speed and rpm and minimal boost. Ask Kyle what he suggests, as there are alot of variables
the motor would need to be torn back down at this point if the rings are indeed failing
Rings need a little while to seat, though everyone's practices are different. Typically, at least 500 miles, often more , with varying speed and rpm and minimal boost. Ask Kyle what he suggests, as there are alot of variables
the motor would need to be torn back down at this point if the rings are indeed failing
Leakdown test is the very first step you must take to diagnosing this. If you have high leakdown then the only fix is a rebuild. While improper clearances from the get go is always a possibility... It's somewhat unlikely as piston to wall clearance and ring clearance is bread and butter work for a machine shop so it's rare a decent one will mess that up.
Possibilities; rings taken excessive time to break in (not typical but possible). Too tight of ring gaps causing rings to butt and crack. Too loose of ring gaps allowing excessive blowby (crappy situation but not worth a rebuild). Washed out rings and hone from excessively rich tune at idle and cruise. Melted/cracked piston ring glands from bad timing tune or leaning out under high load or fuel starvation at low tank level. Too tight of piston/wall clearance causing the pistons to scrub the hone out. Too loose of piston/wall allowing excessive piston rock and poor ring sealing angle (this one would sound like a diesel truck at idle). Engine overheated causing piston scrub and/or cyl out-of-round, wiping out ring sealing.
A very unlikely case for VQs; damaged / missing baffles in valvecovers allowing excessive cylinder head windage liquid oil to escape.
Just some thoughts as I forum on my phone while having some cold ones.
Possibilities; rings taken excessive time to break in (not typical but possible). Too tight of ring gaps causing rings to butt and crack. Too loose of ring gaps allowing excessive blowby (crappy situation but not worth a rebuild). Washed out rings and hone from excessively rich tune at idle and cruise. Melted/cracked piston ring glands from bad timing tune or leaning out under high load or fuel starvation at low tank level. Too tight of piston/wall clearance causing the pistons to scrub the hone out. Too loose of piston/wall allowing excessive piston rock and poor ring sealing angle (this one would sound like a diesel truck at idle). Engine overheated causing piston scrub and/or cyl out-of-round, wiping out ring sealing.
A very unlikely case for VQs; damaged / missing baffles in valvecovers allowing excessive cylinder head windage liquid oil to escape.
Just some thoughts as I forum on my phone while having some cold ones.
sounds like your motor has been damaged due to a bad tune and not breaking the motor in properly. ipp blocks and our blocks are done up by the same machine shop. they have an outstanding reputation and we have never had a problem with there blocks. running that low of an af on a break in tune will render the motor useless
Originally Posted by =RCDash
Get leakdown #s to complete your documentation. Looks like clearances are off. Document your break in procedure. Talk to Kyle.
EDIT> OMG feed the troll OMG so funny even though he jumped to conclusions.....and ironic, again.....i am assuming he thinks the OP is part of his 'hammer' fan club. nevermind his jump to conclusions and that again he insinuates something bad about ipps engines.
anyways, i wonder though... >10% leak down he is leaking enough to fill up catch cans?...hope the best for the OP
Talked to kyle about it and anything or any question give him a call OP.
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; 06-28-2010 at 01:23 PM.
06-28-2010 | 08:05 AM
#47
Ok just got back from doing the leakdown test and here are the results. Drives side: 91%, 94%, 94% Pass side: 90%, 95%, 93%. So it seems that the leakdown showed the motor is in fairly good shape....or atleast that is what I was told from everyone at the shop. So while I can now sleep better tonight knowing the motor was infact not damaged from that dbag nissan tech, it still leaves me with the unanswered question of how in the heck Im getting so much blow by. so again....any ideas?
Based on your original compression #s (originally one cylinder reported as 14 instead of 140), I thought something was definitely wrong with the motor, but those leakdown #s are decent (esp. if it was done on a cold motor). I guess I provided food for the troll - sorry to clutter your thread with posts from my fan club.
Last edited by rcdash; 06-28-2010 at 08:08 AM.
06-28-2010 | 03:26 PM
#48
jtgli, I don't recall through the course of this thread, have you tried just putting a breather on both valve ports? I have found that if you have a breather right on one of the ports (minimize tubing), it allows fresh air to carry lighter fuel and water vapors out of through to your catch can / vacuum source while leaving the heavier oil vapor in the crankcase. It also provides a low resistance pathway for gas escape. Try putting a breather filter right on the driver's side rear port and see if that helps to minimize oil collection in your catch can.
Based on your original compression #s (originally one cylinder reported as 14 instead of 140), I thought something was definitely wrong with the motor, but those leakdown #s are decent (esp. if it was done on a cold motor). I guess I provided food for the troll - sorry to clutter your thread with posts from my fan club.
Based on your original compression #s (originally one cylinder reported as 14 instead of 140), I thought something was definitely wrong with the motor, but those leakdown #s are decent (esp. if it was done on a cold motor). I guess I provided food for the troll - sorry to clutter your thread with posts from my fan club.
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