vortech removal...its time
hey guys, well its time to pull the vortech kit off, its been fun..Some of you know i have the full vortech v2 kit that i installed myself along with a few buddies...It is time to move on to bigger things..The kit went on pretty straight forward with no big problems, i did most of the piping while a friend did the wiring of the ss box and another friend worked on the fuel system putting the fmu and inline pump in..Anyway today i went and got a threaded plug to plug the block where i tapped it..
my questions are Is it gonna be a pain in the *** to re-wire the ecu back to stock? and to disconnect the vortech fuel fittings and put those back to stock? those are the only 2 things i am dreading...For anyone who has already pulled one of these kits off themselves shed some light on me for what to expect when pulling it off or if you think i need anything else before i start...
my questions are Is it gonna be a pain in the *** to re-wire the ecu back to stock? and to disconnect the vortech fuel fittings and put those back to stock? those are the only 2 things i am dreading...For anyone who has already pulled one of these kits off themselves shed some light on me for what to expect when pulling it off or if you think i need anything else before i start...
Nope....
ss box is hella easy I think it was eight wires total (dont quote me though) took about 25 minutes of really uncomfortable sitting. the wires tell you where to put them so if the stock wire coming from the harness is red it will be cut then crimped to a wire going into the ssbox then a wire coming out of the ssbox will be connected to the same red wire that was cut. so all you gotta do is get rid of wires from the ss box then re-crimp the stock wires the way they were originally.
harness/-/stock/-/wire in ssbox/-/wire out ssbox/-/stock/-/ecu
note* the wires on the ssbox will be different going in and out the box
so for example it could look like this
harness/-/RED/-/BLUE/-/ORANGE/-/RED/-/ecu
and for the fuel-
also hella easy where the hard lines from the fuel tank meet the fuel lines going to the rails is a green connector when the kit was installed this mating point was disconnected and the hard line was connected to the line going to the inline pump provided with the kit and then ran through the pump and then into the line going to the fuel rails. so disconnect the lines and re-connect the way it was stock. for the green fuel connector thingy make sure it clicks twice or else you spew fuel all over the place. basically when the stock points are reconnected it should not move at all.
so it goes like this...
hard line from tank-inline fuel pump-fmu-fuel line to motor
this is all on the pasenger side kinda low down- i got it from the bottom of the car.
ss box is hella easy I think it was eight wires total (dont quote me though) took about 25 minutes of really uncomfortable sitting. the wires tell you where to put them so if the stock wire coming from the harness is red it will be cut then crimped to a wire going into the ssbox then a wire coming out of the ssbox will be connected to the same red wire that was cut. so all you gotta do is get rid of wires from the ss box then re-crimp the stock wires the way they were originally.
harness/-/stock/-/wire in ssbox/-/wire out ssbox/-/stock/-/ecu
note* the wires on the ssbox will be different going in and out the box
so for example it could look like this
harness/-/RED/-/BLUE/-/ORANGE/-/RED/-/ecu
and for the fuel-
also hella easy where the hard lines from the fuel tank meet the fuel lines going to the rails is a green connector when the kit was installed this mating point was disconnected and the hard line was connected to the line going to the inline pump provided with the kit and then ran through the pump and then into the line going to the fuel rails. so disconnect the lines and re-connect the way it was stock. for the green fuel connector thingy make sure it clicks twice or else you spew fuel all over the place. basically when the stock points are reconnected it should not move at all.
so it goes like this...
hard line from tank-inline fuel pump-fmu-fuel line to motor
this is all on the pasenger side kinda low down- i got it from the bottom of the car.
Last edited by forced_04; Jul 6, 2010 at 02:16 PM.
thank you for your reply...yeah i am pretty aware of everything or at least i know where everything is, i have worked on my car alot since, just havent had to touch the fuel system or ss box.. Im sure it will be pretty self explanatory once i get the wires out of the way for the ss box...i just remember reading how some people had a hell of a time getting the fuel lines disconnected and had to cut them? idk.. i know when we installed the kit it was no problem to get the lines off from the factory quick connects but i guess the vortech ones are different? or at least one of them that is metal? any idea of this
So what are your plans now tylerxfire TT ST. You went out with a bang breaking the 1/4 mile record.He are you selling the 3.12 pulley? I need one asap going for a tune on friday.
yes always solder!!! lol..
Yes i gave it a good run with the vortech but its time for bigger things...I have some things going on in the near future (wedding, and getting into a house) but after that it is game on.
it will either be a swap of some kind or built motor and twins..kinda waiting to see what happens with ny state inspections, i hear they might lose the obd scan and go back to just a visual check, if thats the case i will probably lean towards a swap of some kind
Yes i gave it a good run with the vortech but its time for bigger things...I have some things going on in the near future (wedding, and getting into a house) but after that it is game on.
it will either be a swap of some kind or built motor and twins..kinda waiting to see what happens with ny state inspections, i hear they might lose the obd scan and go back to just a visual check, if thats the case i will probably lean towards a swap of some kind
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yes always solder!!! lol..
it will either be a swap of some kind or built motor and twins..kinda waiting to see what happens with ny state inspections, i hear they might lose the obd scan and go back to just a visual check, if thats the case i will probably lean towards a swap of some kind
it will either be a swap of some kind or built motor and twins..kinda waiting to see what happens with ny state inspections, i hear they might lose the obd scan and go back to just a visual check, if thats the case i will probably lean towards a swap of some kind
Are you sure on that though? i have always been told that you cant just turn the codes off though that the machine would still pick it up..its not a normal obd scan
thank you for your reply...yeah i am pretty aware of everything or at least i know where everything is, i have worked on my car alot since, just havent had to touch the fuel system or ss box.. Im sure it will be pretty self explanatory once i get the wires out of the way for the ss box...i just remember reading how some people had a hell of a time getting the fuel lines disconnected and had to cut them? idk.. i know when we installed the kit it was no problem to get the lines off from the factory quick connects but i guess the vortech ones are different? or at least one of them that is metal? any idea of this
ahhhh yes that p.o.s
I didnt have the proper tools to remove it so I just shoved the small screw driver in there and released the prongs holding it to the hardline, there is a tool out there to remove that thing with ease but I dont know what it is called or looks like since I ghetto rigged mine off. On the inside of that thing is kinda like a chinese finger trap the harder you pull the tighter it holds on to the hard line, if that helps. I am sure someone knows its proper name and hat tool is required to remove it on here. worst comes to worst get two small flatheads shove em in there under the clampy things and push it off the hardline (its ghetto but worked fine)
crimps done properly will make the neccesary connection and since there is never any tension on those wires I dont see why it would ever come undone. basically crimps work just fine. I have never had a problem with them unless they are in a position thats under abuse. thats what they're made for right?
but if you got the shrinkwrap and soldering gun go for it
ahhhh yes that p.o.s
I didnt have the proper tools to remove it so I just shoved the small screw driver in there and released the prongs holding it to the hardline, there is a tool out there to remove that thing with ease but I dont know what it is called or looks like since I ghetto rigged mine off. On the inside of that thing is kinda like a chinese finger trap the harder you pull the tighter it holds on to the hard line, if that helps. I am sure someone knows its proper name and hat tool is required to remove it on here. worst comes to worst get two small flatheads shove em in there under the clampy things and push it off the hardline (its ghetto but worked fine)
\
I didnt have the proper tools to remove it so I just shoved the small screw driver in there and released the prongs holding it to the hardline, there is a tool out there to remove that thing with ease but I dont know what it is called or looks like since I ghetto rigged mine off. On the inside of that thing is kinda like a chinese finger trap the harder you pull the tighter it holds on to the hard line, if that helps. I am sure someone knows its proper name and hat tool is required to remove it on here. worst comes to worst get two small flatheads shove em in there under the clampy things and push it off the hardline (its ghetto but worked fine)
\
yeah it would have ran real good im sure...low 11 it would seem....Its time for changes though..Ill still be around, just loud and slow now for a little while..lol
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