Vortech SC spitting oil
10-18-2010, 12:17 AM
#1
Vortech SC spitting oil
Searched, but i can't find anything.. unless the Search function is busted.
anyways, on my Vortech SC under boost, the breather spits oil through the breather hose that is routed to the air intake, and it's messing up my engine bay + i get a little smoke from somewhere under the engine (i think maybe it's because of the oil dripping on some hot pipes or whatever).
in 2 weeks time, i lost about 1Liter of oil. had to refill it yesterday.
i bought a catch can, still haven't installed it, but i'm not sure that's gonna solve the issue.
any solution to this?
anyways, on my Vortech SC under boost, the breather spits oil through the breather hose that is routed to the air intake, and it's messing up my engine bay + i get a little smoke from somewhere under the engine (i think maybe it's because of the oil dripping on some hot pipes or whatever).
in 2 weeks time, i lost about 1Liter of oil. had to refill it yesterday.
i bought a catch can, still haven't installed it, but i'm not sure that's gonna solve the issue.
any solution to this?
Last edited by maXmood; 10-18-2010 at 06:08 AM.
10-18-2010, 05:28 AM
#2
Hmm...that may not be the Vortech blower spitting oil. That breather hose is hooked up to your engine and then routed to the air intake; its used for blowby from the engine; you may be getting fairly excessive blowby...
Either way, a catch can isn't going to solve your problem, you either have
-a Vortech blower with blown seals, and you have to have the seals replaced to fix that problem
or
-Engine with excessive blowby which may be bad news (worn piston rings); I would do a compression test to make sure...
Either way, a catch can isn't going to solve your problem, you either have
-a Vortech blower with blown seals, and you have to have the seals replaced to fix that problem
or
-Engine with excessive blowby which may be bad news (worn piston rings); I would do a compression test to make sure...
Searched, but i can't find anything.. unless the Search function is busted.
anyways, on my Vortech SC under boost it spits oil through the breather hose that is routed to the air intake, and it's messing up my engine bay + i get a little smoke from somewhere under the engine (i think maybe it's because of the oil dripping on some hot pipes or whatever).
in 2 weeks time, i lost about 1Liter of oil. had to refill it yesterday.
i bought a catch can, still haven't installed it, but i'm not sure that's gonna solve the issue.
any solution to this?
anyways, on my Vortech SC under boost it spits oil through the breather hose that is routed to the air intake, and it's messing up my engine bay + i get a little smoke from somewhere under the engine (i think maybe it's because of the oil dripping on some hot pipes or whatever).
in 2 weeks time, i lost about 1Liter of oil. had to refill it yesterday.
i bought a catch can, still haven't installed it, but i'm not sure that's gonna solve the issue.
any solution to this?
Last edited by 350z006; 10-18-2010 at 05:33 AM.
10-18-2010, 06:07 AM
#3
i doubr it's not the vortech blower. and i hope it isn't a worn piston ring. i only got 28k on the odo + i've done a compression test before and it was fine.
i'm more positive it's from the breather hose. is there away to disable this?
i'm more positive it's from the breather hose. is there away to disable this?
10-18-2010, 01:04 PM
#6
yes there has always been a breather hose there...and unhooking it is not going to solve ur issue..u have a problem that needs addressing not a temporary bandaid..u should not have blow by like that causing that much oil..i never had more than a drop in mine or in any of my pipes and had no catch can
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10-18-2010, 01:15 PM
#8
^i've seen oil in the plenum when i installed the spacer, but it was a little bit only and thought it was normal. after the spacer install, i did a compression test, and it was all good.
where was the breather hose connected to before the SC?
where was the breather hose connected to before the SC?
10-18-2010, 01:23 PM
#9
After about 30-40K miles of hard driving you need to replace the seals in your vortech. It probably is coming out of the pass valve. If you drivers side wheel is soaked in oil its shooting from the bypass... that means mad oil in the system, leaking from the back side of the blower. Remove blower, send to vortech, pay 400, install, problem fixed.
I waiting and drove my car from St. louis to DC and the blower got chewed up, so my rebuild was like 1500, dont wait that long, the oil is the sign its time to disconnect the blower belt and run it NA for a while.
dont wait man, it will cost big money.
if its not spitting out of the bypass then you have engine blow by and its time for a new block or time to remove the blower and run NA. no fix for that really...new rings...which is a new motor.
I waiting and drove my car from St. louis to DC and the blower got chewed up, so my rebuild was like 1500, dont wait that long, the oil is the sign its time to disconnect the blower belt and run it NA for a while.
dont wait man, it will cost big money.
if its not spitting out of the bypass then you have engine blow by and its time for a new block or time to remove the blower and run NA. no fix for that really...new rings...which is a new motor.
Last edited by 4SHIZZIL; 10-18-2010 at 01:26 PM.
10-18-2010, 01:48 PM
#12
After about 30-40K miles of hard driving you need to replace the seals in your vortech. It probably is coming out of the pass valve. If you drivers side wheel is soaked in oil its shooting from the bypass... that means mad oil in the system, leaking from the back side of the blower. Remove blower, send to vortech, pay 400, install, problem fixed.
I waiting and drove my car from St. louis to DC and the blower got chewed up, so my rebuild was like 1500, dont wait that long, the oil is the sign its time to disconnect the blower belt and run it NA for a while.
dont wait man, it will cost big money.
if its not spitting out of the bypass then you have engine blow by and its time for a new block or time to remove the blower and run NA. no fix for that really...new rings...which is a new motor.
I waiting and drove my car from St. louis to DC and the blower got chewed up, so my rebuild was like 1500, dont wait that long, the oil is the sign its time to disconnect the blower belt and run it NA for a while.
dont wait man, it will cost big money.
if its not spitting out of the bypass then you have engine blow by and its time for a new block or time to remove the blower and run NA. no fix for that really...new rings...which is a new motor.
i'll check the bpv.
new rings = new motor? damn!
10-19-2010, 12:07 AM
#13
With my stock block, I could tell that my rings were shot because oil was dripping out of the breather hose (I have my breather hose hooked up to a filter instead of routing it to the air intake), and it was confirmed by a compression test low on cylinder 2...about 1k miles later my motor was shot...
10-19-2010, 03:23 AM
#15
i've done couple of hours search and found out the pcv actually spits out alot of oil especially if an engine is boosted. as a start i'll try to get this sorted by connecting a catch tank with a breather on it, and take it from there.
10-19-2010, 06:54 AM
#16
yes the PVCs on the VQ are a problem...change that first 30 bucks, but you are better off trying to buy a complete OEM long block vs the price of a built one. I got a longblock for 400 bucks but it turned out to die (rings and blowby) only a few months later due to my high boost Vortech. I got a brand new OEM engine for about 4K, why didnt I buy a built one? I didnt need or want too. My SC runs just fine and at 410RWHP (bad more, new will have much much more) it is plenty for me. So i have had 3 OEM motors in my car for under 6K. I get my moneys worth out of the OEM engines, but I did most of the work myself.
The first was removed to build, but once I got the T Trim Vortech blower, I didnt see the need to build it.
Buy a short block for about 3K, use your heads, and that way you dont have to worry about it. But once you go twin turbo and turn up the boost you risk that chance of doing it all over again.
Stay 400-460RWHP and you will be fine, you can get that from a Vortech with the right mods.
good luck man.
but for now, just disconnect the blower belt so that the engine will last longer.
The first was removed to build, but once I got the T Trim Vortech blower, I didnt see the need to build it.
Buy a short block for about 3K, use your heads, and that way you dont have to worry about it. But once you go twin turbo and turn up the boost you risk that chance of doing it all over again.
Stay 400-460RWHP and you will be fine, you can get that from a Vortech with the right mods.
good luck man.
but for now, just disconnect the blower belt so that the engine will last longer.
Last edited by 4SHIZZIL; 10-19-2010 at 06:56 AM.
10-26-2010, 09:07 AM
#19
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