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Questions about main studs for my build...

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Old 10-28-2010, 07:01 AM
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GT-ER
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Default Questions about main studs for my build...

Main studs, why should I get them? I look at my block and the crank shaft was about to crack the block around the mains but the stock bolts are still tight. Has anyone had a problem with the stock bolts to say that main studs are recommended?
Old 10-28-2010, 08:04 AM
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Dynosty
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ARP main studs are cheap and proven. I'm not sure of anyone who is testing the stock main bolts limit because of that.

What do you mean that your crank was about to break the block? And have you measured your stock main bolts?
Old 10-28-2010, 08:09 AM
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Not yet, but from what I can see the crank looks like it pushed against the mains and cracked the block where the mains go, but the bolts are still super tight. I'd have to measure them though when removed to make sure.

This weekend I expect to remove my engine and fully disassemble it to check out the details.
Old 10-28-2010, 10:20 AM
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streetzlegend
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Like mentioned ARP main's are cheap, so everyone just gets them when they build. In my case I stayed with stock main bolts, in my opinion I think that is the strongest part of the motor and really doubt there would be any issues, at least for my setup 400-500hp. I have not heard of any problems with stock main bolts in both turbo VQ30's and VQ35's. Hal from the 3.0s that blew on you, were any of them due to main bolts being too weak?

Ofcourse when we're talking about 600+ hp, then a peace of mind is always best, so getting ARP's is a good idea.

Last edited by streetzlegend; 10-28-2010 at 10:22 AM.
Old 10-28-2010, 11:41 AM
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tylerxfire
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ARP/thread
Old 10-28-2010, 12:08 PM
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Z1 Performance
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because when you have ~$4000 in internals + time + machine work, it sorta becomes a no brainer to spend $200 on bolts that are significantly stronger than stock. While stock mains are quite stout, given all the stress the main caps are under, it's a good place to upgrade while you've got everything stripped apart and going in fresh
Old 10-28-2010, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
because when you have ~$4000 in internals + time + machine work, it sorta becomes a no brainer to spend $200 on bolts that are significantly stronger than stock. While stock mains are quite stout, given all the stress the main caps are under, it's a good place to upgrade while you've got everything stripped apart and going in fresh
I disagree. If someone tells me that they have seen failures then I get it...but saying "just because" is not a real good reason. Why spend more money if the oem one has never failed ( I'm not saying that they oem ones have never failed, but I have yet to see one thus why I am asking ).
Old 10-28-2010, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by GT-ER
I disagree. If someone tells me that they have seen failures then I get it...but saying "just because" is not a real good reason. Why spend more money if the oem one has never failed ( I'm not saying that they oem ones have never failed, but I have yet to see one thus why I am asking ).
This is because nobody goes though the entire hassle of building a motor and keeps the OEM studs. They will hold stock block power, and that is as far as they have been pushed.

I don't think anybody will build a motor, put the stock studs in, and say "let's see how much power they will hold before I have to tear it all down and start over".

Sounds like you already made up your mind, let us know how much power they hold.
Old 10-28-2010, 02:20 PM
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str8dum1
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you havent seen any fail bc no one builds their motor without them.

Did you measure the stretch on yours? How do you know yours didnt fail?
Old 10-28-2010, 03:08 PM
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OldManZ350
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The only way to know for sure is to Check the Dimensions of each and every Main Bolt, Rod Bolt and Head Stud. The Numbers don't Lie.

Do you have the right Tool for the Job? +/- one little mark should be Good.
Attached Thumbnails Questions about main studs for my build...-tape.jpg  
Old 10-28-2010, 05:14 PM
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I have yet to make up my mind...I may install them even with no real reason to do so...but I'm more curious than anything else. I'm just wondering if it's like people sleeving their engines for 600whp setups, but on a smaller scale.

Has NOBODY built a high power engine with oem bolts?

I have yet to remove mine to measure them, I have to get ahold of a micrometer ( I don't have one, but have a friend that has one ) to measure them. What is the stock spec though?
Old 10-28-2010, 05:31 PM
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Well if you have the time and money to experiment by all means. Sleeves are not a valid comparison because they require something alot of places don't have - proper install technique. The sleeves were never the issue the install was .
Old 10-28-2010, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by GT-ER
I have yet to make up my mind...I may install them even with no real reason to do so...but I'm more curious than anything else. I'm just wondering if it's like people sleeving their engines for 600whp setups, but on a smaller scale.

Has NOBODY built a high power engine with oem bolts?

I have yet to remove mine to measure them, I have to get ahold of a micrometer ( I don't have one, but have a friend that has one ) to measure them. What is the stock spec though?
Get your hands on a Z FSM, everything you ever wanna know about your motor is in there.
Old 10-28-2010, 06:27 PM
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Mr_pharmD
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Like everyone stated the ARP main studs are stupid cheap...$100!!! so u rather skip out on this and take a chance with your $3000 new block just so u can save that 100 and reuse oem studs?
Old 10-28-2010, 07:44 PM
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How much power are you shooting for? The great thing about building something yourself is you call all the shots and have nobody to answer to.

Unfortunately when you are building stuff for other people and you are responsible for delivering a certain outcome you can't take those chances.
Old 10-28-2010, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr_pharmD
Like everyone stated the ARP main studs are stupid cheap...$100!!! so u rather skip out on this and take a chance with your $3000 new block just so u can save that 100 and reuse oem studs?
Where have you seen them for $100? Cheapest I've seen is like $150.

I'm just wondering if there been one, just one, main cap failure?

Originally Posted by streetzlegend
Get your hands on a Z FSM, everything you ever wanna know about your motor is in there.
I have one, I'll check. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
Well if you have the time and money to experiment by all means. Sleeves are not a valid comparison because they require something alot of places don't have - proper install technique. The sleeves were never the issue the install was .
So, if sleeve installs were easier you'd recommend everyone to get them?

I've been told to use a revup oil pump and have found good reasoning behind it to do so from problems people have had in the past. I bought one.

Regardless, I'm not saying it's a bad idea either considering that I'd have to buy new oem bolts anyways....but I'm just wondering the reasoning behind it, or if it's just another gimmick that people fall for due to it's price and the fact the replacing a broken main ( if ever ) is a PITA!
Old 10-28-2010, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
How much power are you shooting for? The great thing about building something yourself is you call all the shots and have nobody to answer to.

Unfortunately when you are building stuff for other people and you are responsible for delivering a certain outcome you can't take those chances.
Personally, I don't think more than 500-550whp are fun on the street.

I can agree with your statement though, I'd overbuild big time if the motor wasn't mine.
Old 10-28-2010, 07:56 PM
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midz350
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A couple of years ago no one believed the OEM HR head gasket can withstand ~1000whp with ARP L19 head bolts and the OEM HR head studs withstanding ~600whp and the OEM sleeves withstanding 800whp+.

only time will tell (if you want to test them).
Old 10-28-2010, 08:28 PM
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I was able to get mine down to 100 due to the fact I purchased most of my parts from the same distributor. Of course I had mine built a few yrs back so the prices may have gone up but with 10sec of searching I found one for $143...i'm sure if u search more u could find cheaper prices out there.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1105847...=263602_304662
Old 10-28-2010, 08:54 PM
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Alright...topic change. I'll buy the studs.

Headgaskets and head studs. Are the newer cometic ones the same ones that people kept blowing back in 06 ( I searched )? MUST I machine my block for the HR gasket? Are the standard ARP headstuds good enough ( I got some for $100 )?


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