Starting Car in Freezing Conditions with Vortech
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I was wondering if anybody on here had some input to this. I was reading in the Vortech manual that you should not start the car in freezing conditions:
"In order to achieve the low noise level of Vortech superchargers, Vortech specifies manufacturing procedures that call for minimal internal clearance. These precise tolerances however are not conducive to temperatures below 25° F. Therefore, storing the vehicle in a heated garage and/or employing the use of an engine block heater/aftermarket engine blanket is required when the vehicle is subjected to a "cold startup" in ambient temperatures below 25° F. Failure to comply with this may result in immediate supercharger failure and invalidate the supercharger warranty."
I just saw this today, but have been starting up my car every morning to go to work when it is 5-10 degrees out. I obviously let it fully warm up for 10 minutes or more before I actually drive the car, and I don't rip on it or hit boost at all on my entire commute. Am I doing harm by even starting it in the morning?
"In order to achieve the low noise level of Vortech superchargers, Vortech specifies manufacturing procedures that call for minimal internal clearance. These precise tolerances however are not conducive to temperatures below 25° F. Therefore, storing the vehicle in a heated garage and/or employing the use of an engine block heater/aftermarket engine blanket is required when the vehicle is subjected to a "cold startup" in ambient temperatures below 25° F. Failure to comply with this may result in immediate supercharger failure and invalidate the supercharger warranty."
I just saw this today, but have been starting up my car every morning to go to work when it is 5-10 degrees out. I obviously let it fully warm up for 10 minutes or more before I actually drive the car, and I don't rip on it or hit boost at all on my entire commute. Am I doing harm by even starting it in the morning?
That is a bit odd. Wonder how it would fair up here, -22deg F over night this weekend. I don't think they make a heater to compensate for that.
I would make sure that I have some very good synthetic oil.
I would make sure that I have some very good synthetic oil.
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I use Mobil-1 5w30, that's probably as good as any. Hopefully it should only be that cold for another couple weeks before things start to warm up a little.
Mobil = FAIL
Its getting much warmer out in PA now, so whatever damage is done is already done. You could always buy an aftermarket oil heater and install it, but that seems like a lot of work for just a few days of cold weather IMO.
Its getting much warmer out in PA now, so whatever damage is done is already done. You could always buy an aftermarket oil heater and install it, but that seems like a lot of work for just a few days of cold weather IMO.
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Back on the topic of cold weather; could I be the only person with a Vortech who starts it up in these conditions? I'm just wondering if what I am doing should be avoided like the plague, or if Vortech's instructions are just being overprotective.
Last edited by chrisjersey06; Feb 26, 2011 at 06:07 AM.
I ran Mobil 1 in my fully built honda motor, sold the car and it was dragged raced with 570WHP damn near every weekend and the new owner gave up on waiting for the motor to blow before going with a bigger motor... he pulled the motor out and sold it as a working motor.
I run Mobil 1 in my Mercedes, 12K mile/1 year old changes and I run Mobil 1 0-40 in my boosted 350Z.
I plan on sending out my oil to test it later in the year, I'm wondering what it looks like at 12 months (low mile) use. Check out some write ups on the Euro Blend Mobil 1 0w40 oil.
I'm **** with my cars and personally wouldn't use anything else. 2 years in a 1.6L motor making 570WHP.... yeah. I'm sticking with it.
Last edited by jeffie7; Feb 26, 2011 at 07:18 AM.
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Superior being an opinion?
I ran Mobil 1 in my fully built honda motor, sold the car and it was dragged raced with 570WHP damn near every weekend and the new owner gave up on waiting for the motor to blow before going with a bigger motor... he pulled the motor out and sold it as a working motor.
I run Mobil 1 in my Mercedes, 12K mile/1 year old changes and I run Mobil 1 0-40 in my boosted 350Z.
I plan on sending out my oil to test it later in the year, I'm wondering what it looks like at 12 months (low mile) use. Check out some write ups on the Euro Blend Mobil 1 0w40 oil.
I'm **** with my cars and personally wouldn't use anything else. 2 years in a 1.6L motor making 570WHP.... yeah. I'm sticking with it.
I ran Mobil 1 in my fully built honda motor, sold the car and it was dragged raced with 570WHP damn near every weekend and the new owner gave up on waiting for the motor to blow before going with a bigger motor... he pulled the motor out and sold it as a working motor.
I run Mobil 1 in my Mercedes, 12K mile/1 year old changes and I run Mobil 1 0-40 in my boosted 350Z.
I plan on sending out my oil to test it later in the year, I'm wondering what it looks like at 12 months (low mile) use. Check out some write ups on the Euro Blend Mobil 1 0w40 oil.
I'm **** with my cars and personally wouldn't use anything else. 2 years in a 1.6L motor making 570WHP.... yeah. I'm sticking with it.
I really didn't want this to turn into another oil thread though, as there are plenty of them on here. I'm trying to hear from somebody who may be able to offer up some knowledgeable information on that statement from Vortech.
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The post I put up in the forced induction oil thread from Forced Performance and info relayed to me from Blouch Turbo reinforced my thoughts on using Mobil1.
I respect your opinion Jeffie, but am trying anything to not go BOOM again. Besides, you actually have to drive the car for the oil to really matter
OP, my point was that the weather is turning now, plus the language from Vortech is most likely just to CYOA and give them a reason to deny warranty rebuilds.
I respect your opinion Jeffie, but am trying anything to not go BOOM again. Besides, you actually have to drive the car for the oil to really matter
OP, my point was that the weather is turning now, plus the language from Vortech is most likely just to CYOA and give them a reason to deny warranty rebuilds.
The post I put up in the forced induction oil thread from Forced Performance and info relayed to me from Blouch Turbo reinforced my thoughts on using Mobil1.
I respect your opinion Jeffie, but am trying anything to not go BOOM again. Besides, you actually have to drive the car for the oil to really matter
OP, my point was that the weather is turning now, plus the language from Vortech is most likely just to CYOA and give them a reason to deny warranty rebuilds.
I respect your opinion Jeffie, but am trying anything to not go BOOM again. Besides, you actually have to drive the car for the oil to really matter
OP, my point was that the weather is turning now, plus the language from Vortech is most likely just to CYOA and give them a reason to deny warranty rebuilds.
1.6L darton sleves, eagle rods, JE pistons. Nothing stock in the block outside of the stock honda B16 crank.
I had it for 1 year running in the 280-300WHP street level power and the guy after me who tracked it weekly and it was his street car got 2 more out of it at 570WHP. That alone is enough for me to have respect for Mobil 1.
I honestly don't think any brand of oil would have made a difference in any of your last 3 motors. Sometimes it's just not meant to be.
P.S are you going to Hills today?
Last edited by jeffie7; Feb 26, 2011 at 08:10 AM.
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