Performance motorsports in ny. Stay away from them!!
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From: South Ozone Park, NY
damnnn...no words can express how I feel about Performance Motorsports right now. I've never been there, but always thought they were one of the top Z shops in NY. I was going to go there to get my alignment, and now I don't even want to give them business because of how dishonest they are. Guess I need to find another shop for my alignment...
Are you planning on letting this go or are you going to find a way to get your money back?
Are you planning on letting this go or are you going to find a way to get your money back?
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 2
From: Northern NJ / Vacation on MARS
Yo Mike, I mentioned it in another thread a while back addressing that shop n the bogus they pull... I'm at work on my Fon so I can't search.. Anyone in here who knows which thread I'm talking about shoot it to Graff.... I tried to go in on them as well as a few others then some how the thread was locked.. I mentioned the whole situation Mike!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 2
From: Northern NJ / Vacation on MARS
damnnn...no words can express how I feel about Performance Motorsports right now. I've never been there, but always thought they were one of the top Z shops in NY. I was going to go there to get my alignment, and now I don't even want to give them business because of how dishonest they are. Guess I need to find another shop for my alignment...
Are you planning on letting this go or are you going to find a way to get your money back?
Are you planning on letting this go or are you going to find a way to get your money back?
Go to RT Tuning, at least there u wont get screwed..... Contact Eric for an appointment!
Tell em Ray sent u.......
Re: initial post.
People freak out about driving on a non-custom tune 100 miles to get to a tuner. It seems odd that your car survived at all for one full year. Even if you didn't race it, surely you hit full boost multiple times--on the stock ECU?
Something doesn't add up. I suspect that they did tune you and it somehow got deleted by some glitch as you arrived at R/T. Everything I've read on this forum leads me to believe that a full turbo'd year on a stock ECU is arbitrarily close to impossible. I'm NOT calling you a liar, I'm just saying that there might be another explanation.
People freak out about driving on a non-custom tune 100 miles to get to a tuner. It seems odd that your car survived at all for one full year. Even if you didn't race it, surely you hit full boost multiple times--on the stock ECU?
Something doesn't add up. I suspect that they did tune you and it somehow got deleted by some glitch as you arrived at R/T. Everything I've read on this forum leads me to believe that a full turbo'd year on a stock ECU is arbitrarily close to impossible. I'm NOT calling you a liar, I'm just saying that there might be another explanation.
Re: initial post.
People freak out about driving on a non-custom tune 100 miles to get to a tuner. It seems odd that your car survived at all for one full year. Even if you didn't race it, surely you hit full boost multiple times--on the stock ECU?
Something doesn't add up. I suspect that they did tune you and it somehow got deleted by some glitch as you arrived at R/T. Everything I've read on this forum leads me to believe that a full turbo'd year on a stock ECU is arbitrarily close to impossible. I'm NOT calling you a liar, I'm just saying that there might be another explanation.
People freak out about driving on a non-custom tune 100 miles to get to a tuner. It seems odd that your car survived at all for one full year. Even if you didn't race it, surely you hit full boost multiple times--on the stock ECU?
Something doesn't add up. I suspect that they did tune you and it somehow got deleted by some glitch as you arrived at R/T. Everything I've read on this forum leads me to believe that a full turbo'd year on a stock ECU is arbitrarily close to impossible. I'm NOT calling you a liar, I'm just saying that there might be another explanation.
Are you sure you weren't tuned with something other than uprev? I know for a fact my original TS tune from AAM appeared as a stock ROM to Uprev, don't see why Cobb would be any different.
There's simply no way you could have survived on 100% stock ECU tune for a year.
There's simply no way you could have survived on 100% stock ECU tune for a year.
Last edited by djamps; Oct 4, 2011 at 10:10 AM.
Russel works in NYC and doesnt drive that Z, nor does he ever beat on the car, I would be surprised if Russel put 1k miles since October '10, but the point is he paid for an UPREV tune, no?
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,876
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From: Northern NJ / Vacation on MARS
I drove my car 1500 miles before getting tuned on 550 cc injectors...800 of this was to the tuner...
At least 600 was on the stock ecu
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 2
From: Northern NJ / Vacation on MARS
It also ran at spring pressure which was 5 psi so full boost was really not huge boost couple that with rarely driving and wen u do don't rev past 5 k, I don't see y the car wouldn't last a year?
i hardly think the uprev decided to erase itself jus before Vince plugged in....
Last edited by 350zion; Oct 4, 2011 at 10:45 AM.
Exactly the point, and also he forgot to mention that the wide band sensor fouled from carbon deposits which can happen from running too rich... Not tuned on 440 cc injectors can run the car on the rich side as most of us kno he could tell from plugging in to the obd port not to mention the black smoke coming out of the exhaust...
It also ran at spring pressure which was 5 psi so full boost was really not huge boost couple that with rarely driving and wen u do don't rev past 5 k, I don't see y the car wouldn't last a year?
i hardly think the uprev decided to erase itself jus before Vince plugged in....
It also ran at spring pressure which was 5 psi so full boost was really not huge boost couple that with rarely driving and wen u do don't rev past 5 k, I don't see y the car wouldn't last a year?
i hardly think the uprev decided to erase itself jus before Vince plugged in....
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 2
From: Northern NJ / Vacation on MARS
Yes. And I watched the car make 410 on what 3 passes? Nothing funky appeared on the dyno graph other then a lower then expected number. Not defending or accusing anyone, under what conditiond can an uprev license be lost other then purposely being removed?
Exactly the point, and also he forgot to mention that the wide band sensor fouled from carbon deposits which can happen from running too rich... Not tuned on 440 cc injectors can run the car on the rich side as most of us kno he could tell from plugging in to the obd port not to mention the black smoke coming out of the exhaust...
It also ran at spring pressure which was 5 psi so full boost was really not huge boost couple that with rarely driving and wen u do don't rev past 5 k, I don't see y the car wouldn't last a year?
i hardly think the uprev decided to erase itself jus before Vince plugged in....
It also ran at spring pressure which was 5 psi so full boost was really not huge boost couple that with rarely driving and wen u do don't rev past 5 k, I don't see y the car wouldn't last a year?
i hardly think the uprev decided to erase itself jus before Vince plugged in....
Agreed that 5,000rpm isn't beating the p!ss out of it; but, it should be well into full boost at that point and it's a long ways from granny driving it.
I'm only plugging in here because I'm trying to get my head around a few concepts with the ECU and how it delivers fuel in hopes that maybe I can bounce a theory off some of you.
Over in one of the threads in driver a guy was testing the myths of intake mods. What he was contemplating was that when the ECU registers increased airflow- whether it be from an actual increase, an intake designed to "trick" the ECU or just from improper readings resulting from turbulent air, it "dumps" fuel into the equation- from what I'm understanding quite inefficiently. Makes me wonder if that concept is correct... perhaps it would do so at such a rate as to allow for the driving conditions described above by the OP?
Maybe that fuel dumping was just enough to keep things from getting hairy. The link to the thread is HERE
The specifics of what he's talking about:
The only sign I had that the engine wasn’t getting as much air as the MAF was saying, was my Air to Fuel ratios. On some intakes my A/F Ratios got very low (into the 10s). It seemed my engine was dumping fuel into the chamber and expecting a specific amount of air to be there (based on the MAF signal) however with the low A/F Ratios I was seeing, I was led to believe it wasn’t actually getting the large amounts of air the MAF was saying
it was.
My theory for why this was happening stems from two possible sources:
First, for intakes that didn’t use the stock MAF housing, I think there was a MAF scaling issue. I’ve done research on NA builds and it is known that with a 3” MAF housing and the appropriate tuning and calibration you can realize a HP gain of 5 – 10 HP depending on supporting mods. Without tuning and calibration the ECU cannot adapt to a MAF housing that is a different size than the stock one. Whether larger or smaller, the ECU will likely have issue with adapting to a MAF housing that isn’t the same size as the stock housing.
The second possibility has to do with air turbulence causing inaccurate MAF readings. I was able to prove a power loss on my setup when doing a dyno run without the air filter. You would think that having less restriction would lead to gains, however the opposite occurred. This is why I think the Stock panel filter or a K&N (in the stock air box) perform a specific smoothing effect on the air that the stock MAF is calibrated for. With cone shaped filters attached to the intake tube, the air enters the tube at a different angle compared to stock. Being calibrated to read air coming in to the tube one way, it is probably the case that the MAF is misreading the amount of air when using a cone type filter.
I think with tuning and calibration it’s possible to fix both of these issues in order to gain power.
Credit to sexyrob over in G35driver...
Over in one of the threads in driver a guy was testing the myths of intake mods. What he was contemplating was that when the ECU registers increased airflow- whether it be from an actual increase, an intake designed to "trick" the ECU or just from improper readings resulting from turbulent air, it "dumps" fuel into the equation- from what I'm understanding quite inefficiently. Makes me wonder if that concept is correct... perhaps it would do so at such a rate as to allow for the driving conditions described above by the OP?
Maybe that fuel dumping was just enough to keep things from getting hairy. The link to the thread is HERE
The specifics of what he's talking about:
The only sign I had that the engine wasn’t getting as much air as the MAF was saying, was my Air to Fuel ratios. On some intakes my A/F Ratios got very low (into the 10s). It seemed my engine was dumping fuel into the chamber and expecting a specific amount of air to be there (based on the MAF signal) however with the low A/F Ratios I was seeing, I was led to believe it wasn’t actually getting the large amounts of air the MAF was saying
it was.
My theory for why this was happening stems from two possible sources:
First, for intakes that didn’t use the stock MAF housing, I think there was a MAF scaling issue. I’ve done research on NA builds and it is known that with a 3” MAF housing and the appropriate tuning and calibration you can realize a HP gain of 5 – 10 HP depending on supporting mods. Without tuning and calibration the ECU cannot adapt to a MAF housing that is a different size than the stock one. Whether larger or smaller, the ECU will likely have issue with adapting to a MAF housing that isn’t the same size as the stock housing.
The second possibility has to do with air turbulence causing inaccurate MAF readings. I was able to prove a power loss on my setup when doing a dyno run without the air filter. You would think that having less restriction would lead to gains, however the opposite occurred. This is why I think the Stock panel filter or a K&N (in the stock air box) perform a specific smoothing effect on the air that the stock MAF is calibrated for. With cone shaped filters attached to the intake tube, the air enters the tube at a different angle compared to stock. Being calibrated to read air coming in to the tube one way, it is probably the case that the MAF is misreading the amount of air when using a cone type filter.
I think with tuning and calibration it’s possible to fix both of these issues in order to gain power.
Credit to sexyrob over in G35driver...
Last edited by Eno; Oct 4, 2011 at 12:42 PM.
We both got tuned by Performance Motorsport the same day and got tuned at R/T Tuning the same day. When we arrived at R/T my computer read as if the Osiris was already there and his didnt. So I dont see why his computer would not read it if it were there and mine would. Plus the car NEVER ran right after Performance did that tune. We actually stated so in some other thread as well a while back. Since neither of our cars are DD and is parked up for pretty much the entire winter we just waited to retune it elsewhere.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 2
From: Northern NJ / Vacation on MARS
I'm only plugging in here because I'm trying to get my head around a few concepts with the ECU and how it delivers fuel in hopes that maybe I can bounce a theory off some of you.
Over in one of the threads in driver a guy was testing the myths of intake mods. What he was contemplating was that when the ECU registers increased airflow- whether it be from an actual increase, an intake designed to "trick" the ECU or just from improper readings resulting from turbulent air, it "dumps" fuel into the equation- from what I'm understanding quite inefficiently. Makes me wonder if that concept is correct... perhaps it would do so at such a rate as to allow for the driving conditions described above by the OP?
Maybe that fuel dumping was just enough to keep things from getting hairy. The link to the thread is HERE
The specifics of what he's talking about:
The only sign I had that the engine wasn’t getting as much air as the MAF was saying, was my Air to Fuel ratios. On some intakes my A/F Ratios got very low (into the 10s). It seemed my engine was dumping fuel into the chamber and expecting a specific amount of air to be there (based on the MAF signal) however with the low A/F Ratios I was seeing, I was led to believe it wasn’t actually getting the large amounts of air the MAF was saying
it was.
My theory for why this was happening stems from two possible sources:
First, for intakes that didn’t use the stock MAF housing, I think there was a MAF scaling issue. I’ve done research on NA builds and it is known that with a 3” MAF housing and the appropriate tuning and calibration you can realize a HP gain of 5 – 10 HP depending on supporting mods. Without tuning and calibration the ECU cannot adapt to a MAF housing that is a different size than the stock one. Whether larger or smaller, the ECU will likely have issue with adapting to a MAF housing that isn’t the same size as the stock housing.
The second possibility has to do with air turbulence causing inaccurate MAF readings. I was able to prove a power loss on my setup when doing a dyno run without the air filter. You would think that having less restriction would lead to gains, however the opposite occurred. This is why I think the Stock panel filter or a K&N (in the stock air box) perform a specific smoothing effect on the air that the stock MAF is calibrated for. With cone shaped filters attached to the intake tube, the air enters the tube at a different angle compared to stock. Being calibrated to read air coming in to the tube one way, it is probably the case that the MAF is misreading the amount of air when using a cone type filter.
I think with tuning and calibration it’s possible to fix both of these issues in order to gain power.
Credit to sexyrob over in G35driver...
Over in one of the threads in driver a guy was testing the myths of intake mods. What he was contemplating was that when the ECU registers increased airflow- whether it be from an actual increase, an intake designed to "trick" the ECU or just from improper readings resulting from turbulent air, it "dumps" fuel into the equation- from what I'm understanding quite inefficiently. Makes me wonder if that concept is correct... perhaps it would do so at such a rate as to allow for the driving conditions described above by the OP?
Maybe that fuel dumping was just enough to keep things from getting hairy. The link to the thread is HERE
The specifics of what he's talking about:
The only sign I had that the engine wasn’t getting as much air as the MAF was saying, was my Air to Fuel ratios. On some intakes my A/F Ratios got very low (into the 10s). It seemed my engine was dumping fuel into the chamber and expecting a specific amount of air to be there (based on the MAF signal) however with the low A/F Ratios I was seeing, I was led to believe it wasn’t actually getting the large amounts of air the MAF was saying
it was.
My theory for why this was happening stems from two possible sources:
First, for intakes that didn’t use the stock MAF housing, I think there was a MAF scaling issue. I’ve done research on NA builds and it is known that with a 3” MAF housing and the appropriate tuning and calibration you can realize a HP gain of 5 – 10 HP depending on supporting mods. Without tuning and calibration the ECU cannot adapt to a MAF housing that is a different size than the stock one. Whether larger or smaller, the ECU will likely have issue with adapting to a MAF housing that isn’t the same size as the stock housing.
The second possibility has to do with air turbulence causing inaccurate MAF readings. I was able to prove a power loss on my setup when doing a dyno run without the air filter. You would think that having less restriction would lead to gains, however the opposite occurred. This is why I think the Stock panel filter or a K&N (in the stock air box) perform a specific smoothing effect on the air that the stock MAF is calibrated for. With cone shaped filters attached to the intake tube, the air enters the tube at a different angle compared to stock. Being calibrated to read air coming in to the tube one way, it is probably the case that the MAF is misreading the amount of air when using a cone type filter.
I think with tuning and calibration it’s possible to fix both of these issues in order to gain power.
Credit to sexyrob over in G35driver...
The car at idle was pig rich btw....






