844whp@26.5psi
I knew it was the weak point, just thought launching easy would get me through the night. Hopefully Dss will sell me just the inners so I can upgrade them to pro series essentially.
Looks like the lvl5 and pro series use different axle shafts so I might have to buy the whole deal
. Looks like the car might have to sit for a bit.
. Looks like the car might have to sit for a bit.
Last edited by meatbag; Oct 22, 2011 at 07:00 AM.
Was it your right axle? I had to send my Pro axle back 2 times, once bc the grease gaurd was cracked and emptied all the CV grease under the car and the 2nd time it broke the inner CV just driving around town. DSS was easy to work with, they just sent me a new axle
were you trying to leave off the 2-step and antilag?
since you have small rims, i assume were using a bias ply tire?
Same pic from the track with busted axle when I was on my Vortech and my DR's really hooked up on a non-loaded trans
were you trying to leave off the 2-step and antilag?
since you have small rims, i assume were using a bias ply tire?
Same pic from the track with busted axle when I was on my Vortech and my DR's really hooked up on a non-loaded trans

It was the driver side. The only problem I have been having with them is that they like to eat wheel bearings. Im putting a stock set in for now but I wont have them till tuesday so this weekend is shot.
I just did a soft launch at 3000rpm with no 2step. Guess I rolled onto the clutch harder then I thought.
I just did a soft launch at 3000rpm with no 2step. Guess I rolled onto the clutch harder then I thought.
duh, meant drivers side. dunno why i typed right. I've always had drivers side problems and that seems to be mostly teh case. I wonder if that side loads more than the right.
how do you know when your wheel bearings are going bad? just alot of noise or can you feel it as well?
how do you know when your wheel bearings are going bad? just alot of noise or can you feel it as well?
Its a used set of 15x10 7.5" backspacing which I have to run a small spacer so it clears the brakes. I need to get a new set with a better BS but with it inset so far I can tuck in the 325/50/15 mickeys.
The clutch is easy to modulate but I probabbly let out faster then I should have. Axles snapped about 30ft from the tree.
Engine:
VQ35DE block
Darton sleeves
Pauter rods
96mm CP Pistons 8.5:1cr
Nismo oil pump
L19 headstuds
All ARP hardware
Final displacement 3.535L
Heads:
JWT S7 cams
Ferrea 1mm over sized valves
Ferrea springs, retainers, etc....
5-angle port&polish
Casting plug bolt mod
Intake:
CJMotorsports Billet aluminum intake manifold
stock throttle body
Everything port matched
Turbo system:
Greddy TD06-18G kit
TD06-20g upgrade
V-band turbine housing
PowerFab Automotive Intercooler, piping, and intakes
Manifolds portmatched to heads and turbos
Exhaust:
PowerFab Automotive downpipes
PowerFab Automotive true dual 3" exhaust with Burns mufflers
Wastegate relocation kit
Fuel System:
ATL 80L fuel cell with internal surge tank
Twin Bosch 044 pumps
Twin -8 hardline feeds and -8 return all hardlined to the bulkheads
CJMotorsports Fuel rails with -8 bungs
Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors
Aeromotive FPR
Drivetrain:
ATS/Carbonetics triple carbon plate clutch
Cryo treated gears
ACPT 1 piece carbon fiber driveshaft
Quaife LSD
DSS lvl5 axles(broken)
Suspension:
HKS hypermax III sport coilovers
Hotchkis sways
350evo front a-arms
SPL camber arms, traction arms, midlinks(swift springs), sway bar ends
Interior, Exterior and electronics
6-point cage
defi gauges and HKS camp system(about to ditch everything and run a racepak dash)
HKS EVC6 and knockamp/wideband
TopSecret Widebody
TopSecret hood
APR Wing
HRE 891r wheels
3" ARP wheel studs
06' headlights
Engine:
VQ35DE block
Darton sleeves
Pauter rods
96mm CP Pistons 8.5:1cr
Nismo oil pump
L19 headstuds
All ARP hardware
Final displacement 3.535L
Heads:
JWT S7 cams
Ferrea 1mm over sized valves
Ferrea springs, retainers, etc....
5-angle port&polish
Casting plug bolt mod
Intake:
CJMotorsports Billet aluminum intake manifold
stock throttle body
Everything port matched
Turbo system:
Greddy TD06-18G kit
TD06-20g upgrade
V-band turbine housing
PowerFab Automotive Intercooler, piping, and intakes
Manifolds portmatched to heads and turbos
Exhaust:
PowerFab Automotive downpipes
PowerFab Automotive true dual 3" exhaust with Burns mufflers
Wastegate relocation kit
Fuel System:
ATL 80L fuel cell with internal surge tank
Twin Bosch 044 pumps
Twin -8 hardline feeds and -8 return all hardlined to the bulkheads
CJMotorsports Fuel rails with -8 bungs
Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors
Aeromotive FPR
Drivetrain:
ATS/Carbonetics triple carbon plate clutch
Cryo treated gears
ACPT 1 piece carbon fiber driveshaft
Quaife LSD
DSS lvl5 axles(broken)
Suspension:
HKS hypermax III sport coilovers
Hotchkis sways
350evo front a-arms
SPL camber arms, traction arms, midlinks(swift springs), sway bar ends
Interior, Exterior and electronics
6-point cage
defi gauges and HKS camp system(about to ditch everything and run a racepak dash)
HKS EVC6 and knockamp/wideband
TopSecret Widebody
TopSecret hood
APR Wing
HRE 891r wheels
3" ARP wheel studs
06' headlights
Pretty interesting that the turbos will hold boost that well at their limit.....good WG control (and I'm sure that mani helps a lot too).
Are they full 20G turbos, or are they 18's with the "20G upgrade"?
Tom
Are they full 20G turbos, or are they 18's with the "20G upgrade"?
Tom
The cam timing adjustments help smooth out the boost curve as well.



