Time for a rebuild. Headed for 750whp, give me your input on what goodies to get. Sleeved block with forged internals is a must. Haltech, check. 3" AAM check. Apparently a wrist pin went bad about the same time I bent a valve. Heads were stock, which apparently wasn't the best thing for 500+whp. Won't make that mistake again. Bye bye, 10k

 

You paid 10k for a built bottom end and stock heads? Why is a sleeved block a must?

 

kinda old but
http://g35driver.com/forums/546300-post5.html
dosnt mention anything about sleeves and was running mid-low eights at supposedly 1200 hp. cant find the website i found before, and those who have had there engines apart already chime in, but supposedly the stock sleeves are ductile iron the same material as the dartons.
again kind of old but
https://my350z.com/forum/drag/355444...records-5.html
over 900 hp to the wheels on stock sleeves as well, and hell im shooting to max a 6765 dbb on stock sleeves(god i wish i could fast forward 5 months already) so many people have shown 750 on stock sleeves is fine already. even hal is running a little more then you(its what 780 something on q16?) on stock sleeves.

quit beating the dead horse you cant even tell its a horse anymore

 

also if the wrist pin went bad im guessing that means it snapped or bent? im willing to bet thats the cause of your bent valve right there. its rare that several things all fail at the same time. 99% of the time its one thing and that one thing breaks other things.

 

I don't know what the hell you are saying here but this isn't a thread about that crap. I'm getting sleeves, I give less of a **** about what anyone says. If it's overkill, great.

Dean, no, I'm about to spend that much.

Assumptions, people. Assumptions. They make you look foolish

 

Many examples out there of people over 500whp on staock heads and cams too.

 

Yeah, I was one of them.

 

People are just trying to help. No need to get pissed at them.


You should buy your sleeved motor from GTM.

 

from what ive gathered from talking to a few tuners and motorbuilders. anything over 700 you want sleeves. im in the same boat as you, im aiming for around 700 + or - a little and i went with the sleeves aswell. Darton took 3 months total to sleeve it and get the block sent back to me though so if you go that route be prepared to wait XD ran 1200 for the sleeves and 800 to have them put them in.

 

well if your going to be a jackass who already has his mind made up why the hell are you wasting peoples time by making a thread asking for suggestions? obviously you already have what you want in your head and anything anyone says is a waste of there time. damn near EVERY one of these threads is "hey everyone what do you recommend?" followed immediately by "oh yah whatever im just going to ignore you because im going to do this" delete the damn thread if you already have your mind made up.

 

its pretty much to cover there *** as anything above that is unknown for longevity's sake as not many people do it. personally i was back and forth on sleeving until i did a little research on it, then i was only going to get them so i could go 3.8L, then finally the wife said i was spending too much money and had to cut back on the $28k parts list the project had grown into. luckily ill be doing all my own work and the cost is back down to about 22k total for all the parts. honestly with the number ive seen that are unsleeved i dont think many people will have a problem around 800-900. had a talk with a couple places including slow motion motorsports when i was back home too they have been getting an increasing number of vq's in. im going to have to go find where i saw that the stock sleeves are ductile iron too, if thats the case there really wouldnt be a point to sleeves outside of larger displacement as cylinder's shifting has been found to be a myth.
edit:
just a fyi i went ahead and looked it up first one i know is the vq37 but cylinder liners should be the same on all of them, calls em molybendium(sp?) but in automotive cylinder sleeves its grey iron mixed with like 5% of that, and a few other things, to form ductile iron, same exact thing darton uses. rest are all the vq35
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t296..._high_hp_.html
http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic224162.htm

wont get a shop to say it but the stories ive heard of 1200 hp stock sleeve vq's dosnt suprise me knowing that, stock sleeves/liners are pretty beefy thicker then a small block chevys stock cylinder walls. i just havnt seen any of those cars to confirm i just have heard rumors.
this one mentions 1000hp on stock sleeves but no mention of whos car it was.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t296..._high_hp_.html

 

stock heads will easily do over 500hp so that wasn't the problem. If you had stock crappy springs (that were probably worn out if they were oem with miles on them) then that would be an issue for concern.

Thom pushed mid 700's on race gas on stock heads with cams. The heads isn't what has a problem with failing, the crappy stock valvetrain is what could fail. Upgrade that with cams and your heads will be good. If you are going to want to push past the 700 mark you probably are on the right track of spending the 5k$ in just headwork (not including the springs, valves, tappets, and cams) to reach your goals.

 

I clearly didn't ask anyone to try to start a pissing contest like you did champ. Kindly exit stage left unless you have something to add


Thanks binder. I'm trying to do the same on 93 octane.

 

I think he was 659 on 93 octane with the stock heads. The limit for your pumpgas map will be the octane before it will be the flow of the heads. Our heads flow very well from factory so cams and valvetrain upgrades are pretty much the only requirements until you are wanting 800+ builds.

In truth, it won't hurt you to do the heads but it is a huge expense for something that really isn't warranted. The only reason i have ported heads is due to the long block i purchased. I got a deal. Otherwise the cost for doing the heads really isn't worth it from my point of view. There are a lot of other things i would love to spend the 3000-5000$ on. But, i have never intended on pushing past 700hp and realize a lot of other factors will limit me before those heads.

It's a personal choice. If you have money to blow then go for it. Remember that it will shift the power curve to the right. Mine is noticeably shifted on graphs compared to stock heads with cams.

 

if you are gonna sleeve, might as well at least go to a 100mm bore. doesnt cost anything extra.

not sure how you associate a broken wrist pin with needing to sleeve the block. But someone must be guiding you to the conclusion, so good luck with your build.

 

I really would prefer not to touch the heads.... however 750 vs. 700 seems to be a large gap for us... we will see how this progresses.

str8dum1- no one is 'guiding' me any direction. I prefer overkill... than pushing limits

 

my thoughts too ^ dont wanna drop 25k into a motor and leave something like that out that seems to be up in the air wether its needed or not

 

This thread seems to have taken a step back in time where people were way overbuilding their engines because of what the shops were pushing as "needed".

Is there really any added security in sleeving for these "low" power levels?
Keep the build simple, but well done.

Your motor, not mine but we are all giving good advice with GOOD intentions.



-notes that ace32x sig contains that 3 letter money hole shop.....

 

i guess you know if your wrist pin went, it woulda still destroyed a sleeved block. The original post read like sleeves will solved any issues.

you should have darton do your sleeves like you plan, but make sure you get carrillo's with CARR bolts. That will save your motor more than sleeves will.

 

they didnt supply anything but the tt kit sir local shop is doing my build

they make a good kit, and i didnt want to run a greddy so i didnt have any other options lol...