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APS Inline Turbo Oil filter

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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 10:58 AM
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Default APS Inline Turbo Oil filter

Does anyone offer Inline oil filters and new lines for this kit?

If someone has done it what are your experiences?
How were the filters mounted?@ the turbo?Middle of the oil line?

Getting new turbos next week and want to take certain precautions just in case ****
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 11:05 AM
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only one available
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...e=Acc-OilLines
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 11:20 AM
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I seen that one but I don't think we have the room to mount it the way it looks with the banjo bolt since the oil feed line is in between the header and and the turbo. Space is limited was hoping more for accessible solution as in the oil feed line itself like this

http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/line...lter-p-47.html

where it would be more serviceable
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 12:17 PM
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there is no banjo bolt. just male and female -4AN. it goes anywhere in line with the oil feed.

The one with a banjo is from a customers car, not how its sold.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
there is no banjo bolt. just male and female -4AN. it goes anywhere in line with the oil feed.

The one with a banjo is from a customers car, not how its sold.
^ Thank you for that piece of info

now to source someone to make me that oil line

Can't wait for the new Billet wheel turbo to get here
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 01:51 PM
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www.anplumbing.com has premade -4an, or you can just buy the hose by the foot and the ends and make it yourself.

super easy
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 05:51 PM
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I have that installed - very nice for limiting flow to ball bearing turbos. I have much less oil in the compressor covers and ic piping after install of that. I do recommend some flexible -4an hose so that you can take any tension off of the upper oil pan fitting. I routed the filter via -4an hose out adjacent to my oil cooler hose and then had the hose loop back towards the stock JWT hard oil feed line. Sharif machined mine out to .05 to match the JWT restrictor (feeding 2 garrett turbos). I also have an oil pressure sensor after the filter. It still sees 50-60 psi on cold startup and about 6-8 psi at idle when hot.

Last edited by rcdash; Nov 30, 2011 at 05:55 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 04:49 AM
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I considered using these after a few failures and speaking to Rich about them, but after checking with the tuner and builder they both agreed that if something fails that won't do squat to save the turbos. By the time your pressure reading shows damage there will already have been enough small material passed through the system to jack things up.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 06:04 AM
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thats really the main point, if you your engine fail and metal in the oil, i think its kinda nuts not to send the turbos out for cleaning and inspection regardless.

granted the filter may save them from needing a full rebuild, but you will still need to send them off anyhow. I dont have a filter on mine. Those sintered filters really need to be cleaned/checked at every oil change as well.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 06:50 AM
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Cass I hear where you coming from and also I took your advise and sent the turbos out to Blouch for a upgrade

GT3071R + Blouch Billet wheel

The APS kit I have I bought from Julian from MRC and since day one the passenger side turbo has smoked from deceleration once the car was up to temp. The smoke wasn't so noticeable before since I always used HFC (Per MRC recommendation) but now with the 3.5" APS downpipes it is awful.

Originally Posted by str8dum1
thats really the main point, if you your engine fail and metal in the oil, i think its kinda nuts not to send the turbos out for cleaning and inspection regardless.

granted the filter may save them from needing a full rebuild, but you will still need to send them off anyhow. I dont have a filter on mine. Those sintered filters really need to be cleaned/checked at every oil change as well.
If anything were to happen to the motor then yes sending them out for inspection is a given. Blouch Turbo is next state over so it's really no big deal. As far as cleaning them every oil change that should also be a given. Why wouldn't you if you already under the car that is why I was saying "Serviceable Area".
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 09:13 AM
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not to thread jack, but on a side note what is everyones oil pressure when at idle (at running temp) and cruising (at running temp) after putting the stroker in mine its noticbbly lower than before. seeing 20 ish psi at idle and about 50-55psi when cruising now
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 09:27 AM
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prolly just means your motor was built loose, if you are using the same oil as before. my oil pressure didnt change from my 1st built motor with the addition of my stroker crank.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
prolly just means your motor was built loose, if you are using the same oil as before. my oil pressure didnt change from my 1st built motor with the addition of my stroker crank.
first built block on this one was stock block before. would make sense if the clearances were a little looser.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ace32x
not to thread jack, but on a side note what is everyones oil pressure when at idle (at running temp) and cruising (at running temp) after putting the stroker in mine its noticbbly lower than before. seeing 20 ish psi at idle and about 50-55psi when cruising now
Mine would start at ~20psi hotand slowly work its way to 0psi over ~2000 miles

GT3071R + Blouch Billet wheel
I had the upgrade without the wheel, they didn't have it for the first 3 re-builds and for the last two I just didn't care for more upgrades. I saw the wheel though and it is BALLER!!
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