Back home lets build!
03-18-2012, 06:35 PM
#23
well was bored waiting on my pistons, was told they where gona be shipped out friday so i hope they did. so started installing the turbo kit and fuel system, ran into a couple problems such as i dont have any connectors for the precision 1200's(anyone know which one exactly this is?) and i ended up with a -6an return line vs the -8an i planned on so im waiting on a reducer to come in the mail but heres some pics. also need to get some larger vaccum hose for the edges of the holes i cut in the rear. had to move things a couple times to make use of what stainless line i had. underestimated how much -6an i needed by like 2 inchs lol.
fpr install with lines.
fpr, fuel rails and injectors
bosch 044's
lots of stuff in trunk area
oem fuel sending unit with cjm goodies and gss 342 before it went back in the car
misc turbo stuff installed. i could have gotten most of it done today but since im waiting on stuff i kinda slacked ill end up doing a little more work before the days over too.
fpr install with lines.
fpr, fuel rails and injectors
bosch 044's
lots of stuff in trunk area
oem fuel sending unit with cjm goodies and gss 342 before it went back in the car
misc turbo stuff installed. i could have gotten most of it done today but since im waiting on stuff i kinda slacked ill end up doing a little more work before the days over too.
03-19-2012, 08:52 AM
#25
outside the fuel rails and injectors im not going to have to remove anything. i havnt had issues with my trans since adjusting the clutch so im leaving it in. need to go to nissan see if it was ever replaced with updated trans or not. so pretty much everything im putting on dosnt have to come back off, minus wastegate to put heavier spring in.
i have access to a lift via the hobby shop so the engine is coming out the bottom. and well the one intercoolerpipe on the bottom might/probably have to come out.
i have access to a lift via the hobby shop so the engine is coming out the bottom. and well the one intercoolerpipe on the bottom might/probably have to come out.
Last edited by jerryd87; 03-19-2012 at 08:54 AM.
03-19-2012, 06:32 PM
#29
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looking good.
I remember when my piping was all shiny a few years ago
Does that huge surge tank have internal baffles to keep the fuel from sloshing during accel and corners?
I remember when my piping was all shiny a few years ago
Does that huge surge tank have internal baffles to keep the fuel from sloshing during accel and corners?
03-19-2012, 07:07 PM
#30
. It is also slanted towards the outlets: http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...k/IMG_6192.jpg
Last edited by Boosted Performance; 03-19-2012 at 07:09 PM.
03-19-2012, 07:13 PM
#31
two seperate 8 an up to the rails str8 then 6 an out the other side to the fpr and 6 return. the inlets and outlets on the fuel pumps though are about equivalent to 6an though so i should be ok and not push too much pressure when at low/no boost. just think of it as extra fuel capacity annnnddddd room to upgrade if i where to ever go to a bigger engine 
had to move the return line though and hence the two holes in the floor of the car. gotta get ahold of summit though because i went to find the other piece of 8an for the feed from tank and the pump feeds from the swirl pot just to find out the 5 ft piece i ordered is only 3 ft long 
had to move the return line though and hence the two holes in the floor of the car. gotta get ahold of summit though because i went to find the other piece of 8an for the feed from tank and the pump feeds from the swirl pot just to find out the 5 ft piece i ordered is only 3 ft long
03-19-2012, 07:22 PM
#32
two seperate 8 an up to the rails str8 then 6 an out the other side to the fpr and 6 return. the inlets and outlets on the fuel pumps though are about equivalent to 6an though so i should be ok and not push too much pressure when at low/no boost. just think of it as extra fuel capacity annnnddddd room to upgrade if i where to ever go to a bigger engine had to move the return line though and hence the two holes in the floor of the car. gotta get ahold of summit though because i went to find the other piece of 8an for the feed from tank and the pump feeds from the swirl pot just to find out the 5 ft piece i ordered is only 3 ft long
had to move the return line though and hence the two holes in the floor of the car. gotta get ahold of summit though because i went to find the other piece of 8an for the feed from tank and the pump feeds from the swirl pot just to find out the 5 ft piece i ordered is only 3 ft long 
03-19-2012, 09:22 PM
#35
it SHOULD have equal pressure since both sides run off the same fpr, the pumps match, and all feed lines are equal length. hence the should lol. hey sasha i would possibly be willing to try it once the built engine goes just wish it had a divided housing =/ 1.52 divided would be amazing. i need to email z1 again see if he got my pistons out friday. had 4 bolts break off the oil pan though so now looks like im gona need to get some helicoils to install the spacer
fpr in front is just to have shorter hoses and most domestics mount it up front so im cool =D
fpr in front is just to have shorter hoses and most domestics mount it up front so im cool =D
Last edited by jerryd87; 03-19-2012 at 09:23 PM.
03-20-2012, 07:56 AM
#37
originally i was going to y them togeather then split them again but it just dint make sense to spend the extra 500+ for y blocks, and the io box from haltech to turn the second pump on. fittings and line are about the same either way. it just seemed like extra complexity to a already complex system for little or no benefit. like i said they are running off the same fpr so the pressure should be the same. honestly dont know how it wouldnt be since the fpr dictates what the pressure is.
now if i upgrade to the haltech stand alone down the road ill most definately go that route. kinda dont like how close the line gets to the pass side header so would route it a much longer route, but the stock line runs through there so shouldnt be a issue especially once i put the new engine in and everything is wrapped and painted, with the ceramic coating on the headers.
now if i upgrade to the haltech stand alone down the road ill most definately go that route. kinda dont like how close the line gets to the pass side header so would route it a much longer route, but the stock line runs through there so shouldnt be a issue especially once i put the new engine in and everything is wrapped and painted, with the ceramic coating on the headers.
Last edited by jerryd87; 03-20-2012 at 08:01 AM.