Somebody wanna donate money to me so I can finish the car?! Gotta buy books n stuff....

Here's what little has been done on the car in the past month. Car will get towed out of this shop for now and back home for a week or so and then to another shop for first start tune/gauge install etc (don't have time with school anymore).

Polishing random intake **** because I can and it's free:


baffled Oil Reservoir tank mounted:


Vented Skidplate teaser:

 

Wow that skid plate could be cool!!

 

Liking the skid plate man. I need to get something like that as well. You thought about selling a kidney or two? Could free up some extra money :P

 

My liver seems pretty good. Could probably spare half!

But that skidplate is 3/8" (maybe more cant remember) aluminum. Was pretty easy to make and the cost of material was very cheap. If you really wanted i could measure out the dimensions (its only covering up the middle area to protect and hide the turbo). Shouldnt be more than like $200 to have made, less if you know the guy making it.

 

Damn, that's a mean skid plate. How heavy?

 

It is aluminum so not that bad. I'll check when I get under the car later tonight... Wanna say about 15 pounds??? But really unsure about that number.

 

nice build man, awaiting final results.

 

subscribed*

 

have a bit of money left over from rent and other ish. Bought p/s relocation stuff, going to start putting in the fuel lines, finishing the veyron pump hangar tonight and finished the isolated oil system breather yesterday. May have a couple of pics later this weekend.

 

How far back does that thing go? I didn't notice it before, but you might be holding an awful lot of exhaust heat against the bottom of the car and that might be bad news.
Does anyone think melting carpet glue or an overly hot cabin could be possibilities, here?

 

There's a lot of space between the skidplate and the bottom of the car, I'm really not worried about it. That and heat doesn't travel down. It's not really going to hurt anything as air can move past it, just not down in all areas, which there shouldn't be vertical airflow really under the car anyway.

Melting carpet glue? The hot side is the only thing that's going to be a heat sink. Working on ducting to the turbo and there's plenty of thermo isolation going on it, or so I hope.

I'm not worried about melting carpet etc so much as I'm worried about melting drive-shaft and conducting heat to the transmission mount/melting the bushing. Those are the two things that are over the turbo/collector and those are the two things very very close to it. As with any custom one off high hp car, there's always some things to worry about. But you deal with the problems as they come.

 

^I hear what you're saying but it wil still get an awful lot hotter in there than it would have before. Too hot? I can't say for sure, but here's why I am confident that it will get hotter.
1. Agree there's no "vertical air" but the air traveling under a car is extremely turbulent and well remove heat quite effectively when in direct contact with the exhaust pipe. You're going to put a blanket over that. It's good that it's aluminum, because it conducts heat very well, but it's not as good as the direct contact, convective heat transfer you would have had.
2. Agree that hot side is heat sink, but when you're really into the throttle, your exhaust will be much hotter than NA (what it was designed for). Plus, your build is huge.
In the end, I think it's a pretty easy fix if it causes a problem.

 

On the dyno my turbine housing was GLOWING as well as my wastegate. The shop had a gopro under my car while dynoing. I tried to get the owner to send me the footage but that never happened. I don't use their dyno anymore so I have no way of getting it.

Anyways, in the hot summer if i'm out doing some fun highway pulls or sitting in traffic my floorboard gets really hot. Once the metal gear shift emblem (with the gear selection on it) burned my hand. I couldn't believe the heat soaked all the way up the shifter into the shifting ****. On the dyno the insulation on my cabin floorboard actually was melted from the excessive heat from pull after pull without the airflow of the car moving (this was also with 2 fans going on the intercooler).

I don't know if it would be a "problem" but having the turbo up under the car generates a significant amount of heat and i'm thankful for the airflow under the car to help remove it. Take my experience with what it's worth to you.

 

i have the same thing as binder, sure my turbo blanket and heat wrap/ceramic coating help but my car gets hot as hell when driving. in uniform its no big deal but when in civies and a tshirt sometimes i cannot rest my arm on the center console.

definitely take precautions since your setup is similar

 

Mhm I hear what you're saying, and the down pipe is the only thing that's under metal. The driveshaft is the main thing i should worry about, for multiple reasons. Maybe I'll have to get a metal ds made... titanium anyone!?

Thanks binder and jerry for the input.

I thought that this setup would get hot, the only difference is that the turbine is under the drive-shaft. So like I said, I'll cross the bridge when I get there. Sadly the clearance between the DS and the turbo is very little, so there's only so many thermal barriers you can put between the two. I don't think the skidplate should make much of a difference at all, but ultimately this will either be workable or not.

EDIT: let me clarify a couple of things.
The skidplate goes from just about where factory cats sit, to just past the downpipe.
It's not full underbody, and it has vents around the turbo/downpipe (as you can see in the pic).
The skidplate is there to protect the compressor housing from speedbumps primarily.
The skidplate is roughly 4" above the ground, so if you measure that distance from the bottom of the car you can roughly see how big the mouth of the skidplate is (it allows air to move freely in and out of it).
I'm planning on making some holes in the front bumper to pump air via ducting to both sides of the turbo and to help promote airflow to oil/ps coolers.
The only parts of the exhaust that are getting blanketed/wrapped are the top turbine housing, and the topside of the downpipe where it is nearly touching the body. Maybe I will add some wrapping etc where the collector pipe meets the transmission cross-member (they are bolted to each other).
I'm going to probably toy with water injection. The idea is somewhere around running a spare y line with a small nozzel to spray onto the trans crossmember, possibly the turbine housing or directly into the exhaust. Pre turbine is done in marine engines which could even have benefits beyond lowering turbine temps, an idea I need to do more research. The nice thing about it is that it comes on during high boost/high load, exactly when the turbine would be reaching super high temps. At super high temps water doesn't actually touch metal, and vaporizes quickly enough that it rolls off while evaporating (cue Leidenfrost effect). The big mathematical debate here is whether using the Liedenfrost effect would be more beneficial than using the water inside the exhaust pre turbine. That's something I'll need to spend time on when I have a bit more free time.

 

Raj (rcdash) did quite a bit of testing with pre-turbo spray at forged performance. You can search for it on here. It basically didn't amount to any changes that would warrant the extra erosion on the compressor wheel (which has been shown on quite a few pre-turbo injection systems)

 

thanks for the tip. will search it.

EDIT:

You're thinking of pre turbine intake side.

I'm talking about inside the exhaust pre turbine.

 

ah yes, I was thinking pre-TURBO not pre-TURBINE

 

Oh. You're probably fine, then. On my phone it looks like it goes from what might be the front bumper, all the way back to ~mid point of the car. I thought it was the new engine under-shroud and everything. If it's open in front of it and behind it, air should find its way in there.
I doing know anything about your wacky water spraying idea, but I guess you'd need a spray nipple mounted in the exhaust pipe right near the turbo. How would you stop the water in that line from boiling?

 

I realized that's probably what you were thinking lol.

Good question, I hadn't thought of that. But it could be remedied by using a thermal gasket/washer between the nozzle and the exhaust pipe.

Here's a pic so you guys can see just how close the turbo is to the ds etc. Should be the loudest turbo I've ever encountered simply because it's so close to the cabin.


And the hot side is not DIRECTLY below the ds, the ds is kind of in between the hot/cold side, but it still warrants my concern.