My V7 YSi Build
12-27-2012, 09:51 AM
#1
My V7 YSi Build
Welcome to those of you interested in my build! I would first like to preface this thread with the link to my previous setup (V3 - 928M Impeller): https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...-v3-setup.html
I have finally gathered most of the parts needed for this build. Here is what the build will consist of:
Built VQ35DE - Picked up from dozer808
- Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons
- Eagle H-beam Rods
- ACL Race Bearings
- ARP Headstuds
- Cometic Head Gasket
- RevUp Oil Pump
- P&P Heads by G&G
- Tomei 264 Cams w/10.5 Lift
- UR Aluminum Crank Pulley
Other parts picked up for this build:
- Stillen Ceramic Headers
- Z1 Twin Disc
- Vortech V7 YSi
- Oil setup from a V2 kit.
- Oil Cooler
- Oil Temp Gauge
- Fuel damper from CJM
Parts that were on the car previously:
- 928M 2.62 Pulley (Gates K060790 Belt)
- Spearco 5-383 Intercooler
- DW 300lph Fuel Pump
- ID 1000cc Injectors
- CJM Stage 0
- GTM Pulley Mod
- Haltech Platinum Pro w/Dual Widebands
- Powerlab 3/8" Spacer
- Berk TP's
- Stillen True Dual Exhaust
- Mishimoto Radiator
- Custom Catch Can
I decided to go forward with this build when my previous, stock block, setup started rod knocking. I was able to get a good deal on the YSi and the built motor, so passing this build up was extremely hard to do. The only thing I didn't care for too much was the compression ratio. It was a little lower than I wanted, but for the deal I received, I couldn't be too picky.
My goal for this build is to make as much power as I can on pump gas. Right now, I know I am going to have a few issues off the bat, however, I just want to get the car running again. The issues I foresee are:
- Belt Slip.
- Running out of fuel with just the CJM Stage 0.
- Intake for the YSi (which will have to get done before I drive the car...)
I have just a few minor things to do before I'm ready to start putting the new motor in. Here are a few pictures to hold people over until then:
I have finally gathered most of the parts needed for this build. Here is what the build will consist of:
Built VQ35DE - Picked up from dozer808
- Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons
- Eagle H-beam Rods
- ACL Race Bearings
- ARP Headstuds
- Cometic Head Gasket
- RevUp Oil Pump
- P&P Heads by G&G
- Tomei 264 Cams w/10.5 Lift
- UR Aluminum Crank Pulley
Other parts picked up for this build:
- Stillen Ceramic Headers
- Z1 Twin Disc
- Vortech V7 YSi
- Oil setup from a V2 kit.
- Oil Cooler
- Oil Temp Gauge
- Fuel damper from CJM
Parts that were on the car previously:
- 928M 2.62 Pulley (Gates K060790 Belt)
- Spearco 5-383 Intercooler
- DW 300lph Fuel Pump
- ID 1000cc Injectors
- CJM Stage 0
- GTM Pulley Mod
- Haltech Platinum Pro w/Dual Widebands
- Powerlab 3/8" Spacer
- Berk TP's
- Stillen True Dual Exhaust
- Mishimoto Radiator
- Custom Catch Can
I decided to go forward with this build when my previous, stock block, setup started rod knocking. I was able to get a good deal on the YSi and the built motor, so passing this build up was extremely hard to do. The only thing I didn't care for too much was the compression ratio. It was a little lower than I wanted, but for the deal I received, I couldn't be too picky.
My goal for this build is to make as much power as I can on pump gas. Right now, I know I am going to have a few issues off the bat, however, I just want to get the car running again. The issues I foresee are:
- Belt Slip.
- Running out of fuel with just the CJM Stage 0.
- Intake for the YSi (which will have to get done before I drive the car...)
I have just a few minor things to do before I'm ready to start putting the new motor in. Here are a few pictures to hold people over until then:
Last edited by Threads; 12-27-2012 at 09:58 AM.
12-27-2012, 10:52 AM
#6
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Info on what harmonic balances do
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_balancer
12-27-2012, 11:10 AM
#7
you wont find a single one of the big power guys that recommend undrive pulleys, and very few fi guys who would say go with it period even those who do will agree that you are destroying you bearings with it.
bottom line as i stated in another thread no matter how well balanced the engine is its impossible to balance the assembly for both weight and the explosive forces that will act on it during combustion(since those constantly change).
the best way is to demonstrate, grab a impact gun and go tighten and loosen bolts with it for 3 or 4 hours straight, you will notice your hand is numb, the crank will experience the same thing. even though it is a strong material the bearings are soft and that vibrating will wear them out much quicker and potentially cause them to grab and spin depending how bad it gets. ati or fluidamper pulleys absorb alot of that vibration and excess movement so that your bearings survive. definitely not snake oil its legit and well documented on the net and i guarantee with local builders also, your crank is really just a big ol tuning fork.
not to mention they are the same diameter just lightweight so your destroying bearings for mayby 1 full hp to the wheels, if that matters to you dont eat a cheeseburger before driving. even under drive only will give you mayby 3 hp and thats really pushing it and being nice, not really worth the cost of a new engine. get yourself a ati or fluidamper(personally i like the fluidamper, it dosnt work as well as the ati but it works at ALL rpm ranges. the ati works better but has to be tuned and only has a few thousand rpm range that it works effectively so it dosnt work the entire time its on the engine.)
now onto other things in my person opinion i would say get a better fuel system, then find some way to get a machine shop to make you cog pulleys for this setup so you dont slip, thats what you really need. serp setups are crap for huge power go with what works. they might even already have some who knows, but a shame to take a 1200 hp capable blower and only make 550 or 600 because belt slip or fuel limits you
bottom line as i stated in another thread no matter how well balanced the engine is its impossible to balance the assembly for both weight and the explosive forces that will act on it during combustion(since those constantly change).
the best way is to demonstrate, grab a impact gun and go tighten and loosen bolts with it for 3 or 4 hours straight, you will notice your hand is numb, the crank will experience the same thing. even though it is a strong material the bearings are soft and that vibrating will wear them out much quicker and potentially cause them to grab and spin depending how bad it gets. ati or fluidamper pulleys absorb alot of that vibration and excess movement so that your bearings survive. definitely not snake oil its legit and well documented on the net and i guarantee with local builders also, your crank is really just a big ol tuning fork.
not to mention they are the same diameter just lightweight so your destroying bearings for mayby 1 full hp to the wheels, if that matters to you dont eat a cheeseburger before driving. even under drive only will give you mayby 3 hp and thats really pushing it and being nice, not really worth the cost of a new engine. get yourself a ati or fluidamper(personally i like the fluidamper, it dosnt work as well as the ati but it works at ALL rpm ranges. the ati works better but has to be tuned and only has a few thousand rpm range that it works effectively so it dosnt work the entire time its on the engine.)
now onto other things in my person opinion i would say get a better fuel system, then find some way to get a machine shop to make you cog pulleys for this setup so you dont slip, thats what you really need. serp setups are crap for huge power go with what works. they might even already have some who knows, but a shame to take a 1200 hp capable blower and only make 550 or 600 because belt slip or fuel limits you
Last edited by jerryd87; 12-27-2012 at 11:12 AM.
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12-27-2012, 11:27 AM
#8
I would also recommend not using UR Crank pulley as it doesn't have Harmonic balancer. Just a pulley
Info on what harmonic balances do
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_balancer
Info on what harmonic balances do
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_balancer
you wont find a single one of the big power guys that recommend undrive pulleys, and very few fi guys who would say go with it period even those who do will agree that you are destroying you bearings with it.
bottom line as i stated in another thread no matter how well balanced the engine is its impossible to balance the assembly for both weight and the explosive forces that will act on it during combustion(since those constantly change).
the best way is to demonstrate, grab a impact gun and go tighten and loosen bolts with it for 3 or 4 hours straight, you will notice your hand is numb, the crank will experience the same thing. even though it is a strong material the bearings are soft and that vibrating will wear them out much quicker and potentially cause them to grab and spin depending how bad it gets. ati or fluidamper pulleys absorb alot of that vibration and excess movement so that your bearings survive. definitely not snake oil its legit and well documented on the net and i guarantee with local builders also, your crank is really just a big ol tuning fork.
not to mention they are the same diameter just lightweight so your destroying bearings for mayby 1 full hp to the wheels, if that matters to you dont eat a cheeseburger before driving. even under drive only will give you mayby 3 hp and thats really pushing it and being nice, not really worth the cost of a new engine. get yourself a ati or fluidamper(personally i like the fluidamper, it dosnt work as well as the ati but it works at ALL rpm ranges. the ati works better but has to be tuned and only has a few thousand rpm range that it works effectively so it dosnt work the entire time its on the engine.)
now onto other things in my person opinion i would say get a better fuel system, then find some way to get a machine shop to make you cog pulleys for this setup so you dont slip, thats what you really need. serp setups are crap for huge power go with what works. they might even already have some who knows, but a shame to take a 1200 hp capable blower and only make 550 or 600 because belt slip or fuel limits you
bottom line as i stated in another thread no matter how well balanced the engine is its impossible to balance the assembly for both weight and the explosive forces that will act on it during combustion(since those constantly change).
the best way is to demonstrate, grab a impact gun and go tighten and loosen bolts with it for 3 or 4 hours straight, you will notice your hand is numb, the crank will experience the same thing. even though it is a strong material the bearings are soft and that vibrating will wear them out much quicker and potentially cause them to grab and spin depending how bad it gets. ati or fluidamper pulleys absorb alot of that vibration and excess movement so that your bearings survive. definitely not snake oil its legit and well documented on the net and i guarantee with local builders also, your crank is really just a big ol tuning fork.
not to mention they are the same diameter just lightweight so your destroying bearings for mayby 1 full hp to the wheels, if that matters to you dont eat a cheeseburger before driving. even under drive only will give you mayby 3 hp and thats really pushing it and being nice, not really worth the cost of a new engine. get yourself a ati or fluidamper(personally i like the fluidamper, it dosnt work as well as the ati but it works at ALL rpm ranges. the ati works better but has to be tuned and only has a few thousand rpm range that it works effectively so it dosnt work the entire time its on the engine.)
now onto other things in my person opinion i would say get a better fuel system, then find some way to get a machine shop to make you cog pulleys for this setup so you dont slip, thats what you really need. serp setups are crap for huge power go with what works. they might even already have some who knows, but a shame to take a 1200 hp capable blower and only make 550 or 600 because belt slip or fuel limits you
jerryd87, I'm pretty sure I'll eventually upgrade to a higher CJM stage for this build. For the sake of getting the car running first and meeting my immediate goals of maxing out on pump, I may not have to right away.
I also agree that to get the max out of this setup, it's going to need a higher ribbed serp, or as you suggested, a cog setup. Now I maybe thinking of this the wrong way, but in order to run a modified pulley setup, I'd have to get a crank pulley fabricated as well. Wouldn't this put me in the same situation as with the UR pulley? Or will a competent machine shop be able to replicate the OEM crank pulley's harmonic balancer?
12-27-2012, 01:07 PM
#13
you can do similar to how small block chevys used to bolting an additonal pulley on. im not sure on the ati but the fluidamper has three bolt holes you could bolt a pulley onto for a cog setup. for maximum strength i would have one that actually sunk into the pulley though and bolted onto the crank with the big crank bolt. if you look at the fluidamper you will see what yah mean.
kinda like this you have it machine to fit so you have both, would have to look but i think this might actually be the 350z pulley lol
kinda like this you have it machine to fit so you have both, would have to look but i think this might actually be the 350z pulley lol
Thanks for the info guys. All of the threads I've read regarding the UR pulley seemed to never mention the harmonic balancer. I also agree that the gains of a lightweight pulley are no where near worth the potential damage it could do because of the lack of a balancer.
jerryd87, I'm pretty sure I'll eventually upgrade to a higher CJM stage for this build. For the sake of getting the car running first and meeting my immediate goals of maxing out on pump, I may not have to right away.
I also agree that to get the max out of this setup, it's going to need a higher ribbed serp, or as you suggested, a cog setup. Now I maybe thinking of this the wrong way, but in order to run a modified pulley setup, I'd have to get a crank pulley fabricated as well. Wouldn't this put me in the same situation as with the UR pulley? Or will a competent machine shop be able to replicate the OEM crank pulley's harmonic balancer?
jerryd87, I'm pretty sure I'll eventually upgrade to a higher CJM stage for this build. For the sake of getting the car running first and meeting my immediate goals of maxing out on pump, I may not have to right away.
I also agree that to get the max out of this setup, it's going to need a higher ribbed serp, or as you suggested, a cog setup. Now I maybe thinking of this the wrong way, but in order to run a modified pulley setup, I'd have to get a crank pulley fabricated as well. Wouldn't this put me in the same situation as with the UR pulley? Or will a competent machine shop be able to replicate the OEM crank pulley's harmonic balancer?
Last edited by jerryd87; 12-27-2012 at 01:12 PM.
12-27-2012, 05:27 PM
#18
+1....another good thing about dampened pulleys (whether ATI or Fluidampr) is that their diameter is bigger than the stock crank pulley so technically that means more belt wrap and hopefully less chance of slippage....but really, its hard to say if that'll be enough to minimize slippage; really a sure way to ensure no slippage is a custom cog belt setup, aka more $$...
BTW OP, good luck with the build and power!
BTW OP, good luck with the build and power!
12-27-2012, 06:06 PM
#20
IMO, To do it right, you need a Minimum of a 10 Rib.... 10 rib with a V7 YSi is very common and works well to 35PSI. I don't like a Cog setup for the Street, but that is just me. ATI can build you a complete set rib or cog, and so can many other places.
A new friend of mind told me about a New Coating for Pulleys, Looks Very Intesting. http://www.carbiniteracing.com/index.html
A new friend of mind told me about a New Coating for Pulleys, Looks Very Intesting. http://www.carbiniteracing.com/index.html
Last edited by OldManZ350; 12-27-2012 at 06:07 PM.