Pick a set of rotors, blanks are fine , slotted and drilled do very little for you. EBC Red, yellow , Hawk HP+, Ferodo 2500 is similer pad and any off the shelf Dot4 will be fine. Then the most important thing is reducing stopping distance TIRES, quality tires.

Now if you were to track your car (roadcourse) i would suggest a BBK (OEM Brembo may even be fine, depending on how serious you are) to deal with all the extra heat generated. Highway pulls (as mentioned) do not generate heat like a roadcourse does.

 

i dont particularly care for my Hawk pads, will try XP10s next go around!

 

after driving a bigger hp fi car for the first time on public streets, all i can say that i find myself feeling a throbbing need for is for the oem airbags to work again.. a roll cage, harnesses and a helmet.. and awd to help keep this thing straight. lol.


Its super duper scary honestly, even tho it drives solid.. ive never had a turb ocar before.. and when boost kicks in youre already going fast anyways, so its like a lightspeed jump in the orig star wars.. except its not stars streaking by.. its taillights lol...

So in my opinion/experience.. my big hp car will never really see the kinds of speeds that vastly upgraded brakes and lines would help with.. that being said.. i still bought akebono bbks. and lines and all that sh#t anyways lol... and it stops as fast as it goes.. but ill jsut never get in the predicament to really have to use either fully... knock on wood.


my fi will live forever.... because i drive it like a total p#ssy lol.
True story.

 

You seriously need new tires!

How much whp is your pump gas tune good for?

 

Its true. The maximum amount of braking force possible to decelerate the car is really limited by the friction interface between the tire and the road surface. Once the braking forces exceeds the static frictional force the tires start sliding and lock up. At that point any additional force isnt going to make you Stop any sooner. Without changing you wheel and tire setup all you can really do is try allow heat transfer from your brakes, wheels, and tires to occur more efficiently to prevent heat saturating and therefore brake fade. Bigger rotors give you more surface area to dissipate heat and multi piston calipers allow for more even load distribution on rotors and pads.

 

Good advice. Honestly SS lines are a given, and fluid is cheap enough that going for race fluid is nbd. As I said previously, I've got r888's. Can't think of any street legal tire that's any better. Doesn't rain here often so they're perfect for me.

When the car gets ready for track days, then the next stage of my build will start... more weight reduction, rollcage, suspension, axles, and bbk are all on that list. But for now my goals are just high speed ripper, go on dates (lol), get groceries and putt around town.

 

Noted!


Terrasmak+Rude (and anyone else...) Serious pads wear through rotors quicker so I need a more durable rotor than stock, am I correct?

I've been considering these "high carbon" rotors: http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/part...4//Nissan/350Z

Not a fan of HPF and won't order from them but just a link. I understand the high carbon makes the rotors technically harder. Any other rotors that would be technically better or are a better deal?

 

888's probably arnt that good, they are an R compound and need higher temps for full traction. Next brake lines do little to nothing, the give you better feel if your wearing a thin soled shoe. High end track style Dot 4 will do nothing for you but wear out faster, require monthly bleeding and cost extra.

Pads, you do not want a full race pad. Pads and rotor wear quickly when they are not used at the proper temp. Some of the hybrid pads will wear rotor quick, but 1/20th of the wear a track pad. Looking at the Carbotech page, still trying to figure out the XP series and don't know what is what yet.

Rotors, quality blanks will be fine. The will all wear down, at most you will get an extra few miles out of the special rotors. Especially when using some harsh pads.

 

I can't think of a better gripping tire than the r888 for a car like this. The bias plys won't brake like this, and they do reach operating temp range on the street without issue even in the front. Lol I wouldn't run 5 but maybe 5.1. The bleeding needed isn't horrible considering it would be at most 1 time during the life of this engine (considering it wouldn't be tracked). Once before I have to rebuild the lower end isn't that bad if you ask me. But if you don't think the benefits wouldn't be worth the hassle on this setup, I'm totally fine with not running 5.1

Good to know that "special" rotors aren't needed for the pads.

 

going to have to agree with resmarted on the tires, my r888's are amazing on the street running 27 psi cold about 30 mins of driving heated them up enough to hold up to 18 psi without issue and some spinning in 1st at 20 psi. then ran through some water cooled them off and spun when i hit dry ground again and that heated them up enough to grab even better. granted i run 305/35/18 but short of going to a 17 inch drag radial in 26 or 28 inchs i dont think i could beat them or a 18 inch drag radial 28 inchs tall

 

Ive got the same size in the rear!