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Forced Induction Turbochargers and Superchargers..Got Boost?

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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 04:36 PM
  #21  
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Love the build. I actually like the colors but, most will disagree.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 08:45 PM
  #22  
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mixed feelings about the wrap...but I would keep it and peel it off if you get tired of it...

Great build and great pictures along the way

did you run your oil cooler lines under your sway bars?
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 11:48 PM
  #23  
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Nice build, glad you finished it!

I do like the colors of the wrap. Looks very Airforce'ish to me (which is totally cool). I'm not x military, but I am a Conehead. So I have lot of respect for Airforce/Aviation people.
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 08:08 AM
  #24  
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Nice build, in for numbers after break in.
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 12:59 PM
  #25  
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Thanks for the wrap support!! I will have more pictures, and updated power sheets/dyno sheets soon. I get to use a dyno for free so it makes that part easy I've got to load up the one video I have but it's before I knew I had the boost leak and it was a bad run from the tune. Yea I moved the lines for the oil cooler all together. I didn't want then catching!! I'm still thinking of getting rid of my current suspension for a better set up. I bought the car with the k sport on it, I'm wanting to track the car when I can so I want something Good not decent...
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 05:45 PM
  #26  
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What was the difference between the stock sleeves and the new sleeves? I have not heard of "LA Sleeves" for our platform.
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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 04:18 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by rcdash
What was the difference between the stock sleeves and the new sleeves? I have not heard of "LA Sleeves" for our platform.
They are basically the exact same as the darton sleeves. The reason they don't come up is because they are special order from them. They do not mass produce them. And I think I have 4 rings around the cylinder wall vs 3 with darton I could be wrong though.
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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 04:57 PM
  #28  
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In for results as well. Nice build. No mini guage on the fpr??
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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 09:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by taywan
In for results as well. Nice build. No mini guage on the fpr??
There is, just hadn't put it on yet. I literally have probably 100+ pics taken while I was building it. To insert all of them would just not be fun to caption and sort through. I didn't put the gauge on until the very end, I didn't want to bump it or break it while I was working still.
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 03:30 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 350zTTnTx
They are basically the exact same as the darton sleeves. The reason they don't come up is because they are special order from them. They do not mass produce them. And I think I have 4 rings around the cylinder wall vs 3 with darton I could be wrong though.
I was wondering about this as well. I could be mistaken, but I thought the darton sleeves were "wet" where as yours appear to be dry. Wet being the entire OEM sleeve/water jacket is cnc milled to make room for the new one. Dry being the OEM sleeve is bored out (not requireing CNC milling) but leaving the OEM water jacket for the new sleeve to be pressed in.

How much bigger overbore can you go with these sleeves?
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 11:17 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 350zTTnTx
Lol getting a lot of hate for the wrap, honestly I like it. Its something diffrent and you don't exactly see it everyday. Plus a lot of people have said that the pictures don't do it any good, looks better in person...or they are just being nice to my face . oh well. I can always get a new one in 6 months or so as well She's running great, no problems so far although she really is just a weekend car I only have about 100 miles give or take. The reason I went uprev vs haltech is well the price point. The only diffrence is haltech costs more upfront, cost more to tune and only real benefit is running e85 or ras gas. While it's great I only drive it 1 or 2 times a month. it was a hard justification for me and I can always upgrade. As far as cams go, well I want some but again the stock ones are good for a lot of power I'm not going more then about 650whp. The z gets really squirrely with much over 550whp Or so I've heard.
Haltech has a lot of benefits. And now red boxes are under a grand on the classifieds... I think I saw one for 750$, which is what an uprev costs.

Uprev uses MAF which is not great for boosted cars. You can set them up yes, but to run more power you need a better MAF which costs a pretty penny. Mafs use an iridium wire exposed to air flow to create resistance on the wire. This can fail and can be inconsistent/have issues. And requires a whole new tune when boost is increased or decreased or elevation changes occur.

With haltech you get MAP and VE tuning. VE tuning uses a manifold pressure sensor, and an air intake temperature sensor to determine how much air is moving into the engine. Then your tuner adjusts the Volumetric Efficiency map to match how efficient your engine is. Becomes a lot easier and quicker to tune than MAF tuning. And, it can allow you to change boost on the fly.

The haltech has boost control features as well as timing control features... Boost by speed is crucial for any big hp car to get down the track/road. Low gears use wg pressure then up the boost as you find the car can hook. Then you can use the haltech to create a ignition retard map based on the inputs of the 350z's wheel speed (ABS) sensors. Between the two, you can have a car that makes as much power as it can put down, and ultimately be as efficient as possible.

Those are just two features haltechs have over the osiris stuff. Tons of over boost/safety features in the haltech too... Knock, coolant temp, you name it the haltech can usually kick the car into a safe mode so the car doesn't eat it's self alive should something go wrong.

So, aside from haltech letting your car be faster, safer, with better drivability, it's totally all the same right?

Last edited by Resmarted; Apr 19, 2015 at 11:19 PM.
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 04:37 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Resmarted
Haltech has a lot of benefits. And now red boxes are under a grand on the classifieds... I think I saw one for 750$, which is what an uprev costs.

Uprev uses MAF which is not great for boosted cars. You can set them up yes, but to run more power you need a better MAF which costs a pretty penny. Mafs use an iridium wire exposed to air flow to create resistance on the wire. This can fail and can be inconsistent/have issues. And requires a whole new tune when boost is increased or decreased or elevation changes occur.

With haltech you get MAP and VE tuning. VE tuning uses a manifold pressure sensor, and an air intake temperature sensor to determine how much air is moving into the engine. Then your tuner adjusts the Volumetric Efficiency map to match how efficient your engine is. Becomes a lot easier and quicker to tune than MAF tuning. And, it can allow you to change boost on the fly.

The haltech has boost control features as well as timing control features... Boost by speed is crucial for any big hp car to get down the track/road. Low gears use wg pressure then up the boost as you find the car can hook. Then you can use the haltech to create a ignition retard map based on the inputs of the 350z's wheel speed (ABS) sensors. Between the two, you can have a car that makes as much power as it can put down, and ultimately be as efficient as possible.

Those are just two features haltechs have over the osiris stuff. Tons of over boost/safety features in the haltech too... Knock, coolant temp, you name it the haltech can usually kick the car into a safe mode so the car doesn't eat it's self alive should something go wrong.

So, aside from haltech letting your car be faster, safer, with better drivability, it's totally all the same right?

So I guess that was gentle lol. Well I appreciate it, and right now I would love to buy a haltech for $750 I mean crap I'd pay 1000. But I haven't seen one for sale in that price range. If someone knows of one let me know I'll purchase it today! (Sorry for late response I was on vacation!)
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 04:40 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by bruthaboost
I was wondering about this as well. I could be mistaken, but I thought the darton sleeves were "wet" where as yours appear to be dry. Wet being the entire OEM sleeve/water jacket is cnc milled to make room for the new one. Dry being the OEM sleeve is bored out (not requireing CNC milling) but leaving the OEM water jacket for the new sleeve to be pressed in.

How much bigger overbore can you go with these sleeves?
Spoke a little out of my league there, but I can ask the shop that built it and see what their answer is?
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 04:56 AM
  #34  
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In addition, I was able to get the mild nismo r tune cams for a steal. So I just purchased the BC springs and titanium retainers. Where I know the cams are not stellar I was using stock so this should be an upgrade period. I also managed to spring a small oil leak, not sure from where yet and I believe I have another boost leak. Could be from the same thing...? In 3rd gear getting past 3k rpm I lose almost all boost only hit around 2-3 pounds. Then the RPM shifts, shoots up to around 6k rpm when building boost then loses it all and drops to about 4k rpm. Does that sound like a boost leak? 1st and second seem to be ok only peaking around 4 pounds of boost I'm set to 7 pounds so I'm baffled. For the mean time the car is back in the shop. Open to any advice. Thanks in advanced.
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Old Apr 29, 2015 | 05:13 PM
  #35  
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congrats on the build. pretty nice project you have. sorry about your troubles, a good shop should be able to diagnose that pretty easily. something was overlooked.
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 03:07 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Resmarted
Haltech has a lot of benefits. And now red boxes are under a grand on the classifieds... I think I saw one for 750$, which is what an uprev costs.

Uprev uses MAF which is not great for boosted cars. You can set them up yes, but to run more power you need a better MAF which costs a pretty penny. Mafs use an iridium wire exposed to air flow to create resistance on the wire. This can fail and can be inconsistent/have issues. And requires a whole new tune when boost is increased or decreased or elevation changes occur.

With haltech you get MAP and VE tuning. VE tuning uses a manifold pressure sensor, and an air intake temperature sensor to determine how much air is moving into the engine. Then your tuner adjusts the Volumetric Efficiency map to match how efficient your engine is. Becomes a lot easier and quicker to tune than MAF tuning. And, it can allow you to change boost on the fly.

The haltech has boost control features as well as timing control features... Boost by speed is crucial for any big hp car to get down the track/road. Low gears use wg pressure then up the boost as you find the car can hook. Then you can use the haltech to create a ignition retard map based on the inputs of the 350z's wheel speed (ABS) sensors. Between the two, you can have a car that makes as much power as it can put down, and ultimately be as efficient as possible.

Those are just two features haltechs have over the osiris stuff. Tons of over boost/safety features in the haltech too... Knock, coolant temp, you name it the haltech can usually kick the car into a safe mode so the car doesn't eat it's self alive should something go wrong.

So, aside from haltech letting your car be faster, safer, with better drivability, it's totally all the same right?
Some of the mentioned features are not available in red series Haltech units.

Otherwise, I would say yes, Haltech is much better platform for any serious high torque build.
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 06:21 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by tcode
Some of the mentioned features are not available in red series Haltech units.

Otherwise, I would say yes, Haltech is much better platform for any serious high torque build.
I'm looking at a haltech Platinum pro now I didn't even notice that there was diffrent trim packages. It's just if I can reconcile with the 2k price tag + tune cost. I just added up all the price of this car honestly I feel sick to my stomach lol. It should be fun to drive when its finished and running 20 pounds of boost. But I'm thinking of the haltech as a way to potentially save me if something goes wrong. having knock sensors and safe modes sounds like cheap insurance with hown much I've put in so far.
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 04:00 PM
  #38  
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people are nuts to drop 10-20k into their builds and then complain about running a proper ECU with safeguards.
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 04:39 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 350zTTnTx
I'm looking at a haltech Platinum pro
Platinum Pro Z33? Haltech is releasing the Elite pretty quick here...no matter which unit you get you should factor in another $500-$1000 for required CAN devices and sensors. such as the dual wideband controller at a minimum.

I would love to upgrade to the Platinum Pro Z33 but the $2500 price tag is too much let along another $1000 in misc cost...I believe the elite will be in the $3500 area. They have more features than the Platinum Pro Harness but I don't think they are worth it...
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Old May 5, 2015 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
people are nuts to drop 10-20k into their builds and then complain about running a proper ECU with safeguards.
You may be right, but the stock computer has a knock sensor. So i mean im not really risking that much. But im still on the verge of buying the platinum but even my tuner who tunes both said its kind of a waste for me unless im wanting to run e85 or race gas. If i do switch my injectors will need to be changed as well. We are starting to talk about some serious price differences here. 1000cc injectors plus haltech + tune easy 4 grand right there maybe more. =( like i said i wish my build price was around the 10-20k range. thats the motor and the turbo kit.
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