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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 04:28 PM
  #361  
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Originally Posted by Juztin
Man I can relate without being able to drive my car over 2.5 years due to shop woes. Rather than a cts-v just put a SC LS in the Z Half import/half mullet and a ton of power to not give a ****!
LOL, I was told to do that but I figured it would be to much money and a lot of hassle but seems would have been just as expensive and probably a lot less of a headache.
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 04:50 PM
  #362  
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As much as I don't want to...seems like the smart thing to do is pull the motor and disassemble it to reseal it. :-(
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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 09:10 AM
  #363  
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Hey,I just want to suggest using Permatex "The right stuff". If you end up doing the sealing yourself.
The machine shop our shop deals with swears by it,I've used it a bunch of times and it seems to work really well!
Hopefully you get your build done and on the road soon so you can start enjoying all the hard work and stress you've had to endure.
Goodluck
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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 09:44 AM
  #364  
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Originally Posted by NissanZcrazy
Hey,I just want to suggest using Permatex "The right stuff". If you end up doing the sealing yourself.
The machine shop our shop deals with swears by it,I've used it a bunch of times and it seems to work really well!
Hopefully you get your build done and on the road soon so you can start enjoying all the hard work and stress you've had to endure.
Goodluck
That's what I used this last time to seal it, according to Permatex I used to much.
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Old Apr 16, 2016 | 03:51 PM
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Well motor is pulled, will start the disassembly tomorrow morning, then have to wait on cams to reasseble.
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Old May 5, 2016 | 12:49 PM
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I F'ing quit!
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Old May 5, 2016 | 01:21 PM
  #367  
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Quit?
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Old May 5, 2016 | 02:28 PM
  #368  
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So it no longer leaks oil but now it's missing, B1 AFR's are in the 15's and B2 is in the 10's
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Old May 5, 2016 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Conway_160
So it no longer leaks oil but now it's missing, B1 AFR's are in the 15's and B2 is in the 10's
How do the plugs look?

Have you done a comp test?

Are all the coils good and hooked up correctly?

Have you checked your grounds?

What injectors are you running? It may be the injectors or something like that.

What fuel rails and fuel pressure are you running?
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Old May 5, 2016 | 03:29 PM
  #370  
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Originally Posted by Resmarted
How do the plugs look?
Tips of plugs are black.

Have you done a comp test?
Not yet, it ran fine yesterday when I first started it up after getting it all put back together.

Are all the coils good and hooked up correctly?
I double checked them they are hooked up correctly

Have you checked your grounds?
Grounds are good

What injectors are you running? It may be the injectors or something like that.
RC750's

What fuel rails and fuel pressure are you running?
Early CJM's without the dampeners, and 51 psi.
Anwsers are all in red, It ran fine yesterday once I got it all put back together what are the odds it skipped a tooth or two?
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Old May 5, 2016 | 05:34 PM
  #371  
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I think it jumped a tooth, according to the pics on the JWT website my driver side bank is off.
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Old May 5, 2016 | 05:57 PM
  #372  
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Originally Posted by Conway_160
I think it jumped a tooth, according to the pics on the JWT website my driver side bank is off.
It's possible, but you said it ran good yesterday?

You turned it over a few times by hand right? If the chain is lined up right then, it shouldn't skip a tooth later.
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Old May 5, 2016 | 07:54 PM
  #373  
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I didn't turn it over by hand a few times :-( but it ran fine the first few times I fired it up. But had some leaks so had to shut if off tighten some things up but then it started to become a little harder to start and the CEL light started flashing while it was running so I shut it off until I hooked up my laptop to see what was going on. Now I have to hold the throttle wide open before it even attempts to start.
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Old May 5, 2016 | 07:55 PM
  #374  
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The marks all lined up but it was loose on the water pump I moved the crank to try to tighten it up but obviously that didn't work.
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Old May 7, 2016 | 06:45 AM
  #375  
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What are you tuned with? I've switched up the banks on my haltech by mistake and the banks were way off. Had to switch the o2 connectors and it was fine.
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Old May 7, 2016 | 07:20 AM
  #376  
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Originally Posted by meanz
What are you tuned with? I've switched up the banks on my haltech by mistake and the banks were way off. Had to switch the o2 connectors and it was fine.
Right now it's still Uprev until my Haltech gets here next week.
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Old May 8, 2016 | 05:15 PM
  #377  
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Motor may be F'd, Not sure what happened, but may have bent valves, messed up pistons sky is the limit.


Procharged G35-cam.jpg

Procharged G35-cam-2.jpg
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Old May 9, 2016 | 09:39 PM
  #378  
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Originally Posted by Conway_160
Motor may be F'd, Not sure what happened, but may have bent valves, messed up pistons sky is the limit.

Damn that's savage.

Well hopefully the head took the brunt of the beating. Inspect the cylinders and if there isn't too much scarring just re use the short block. There is a chance that some debris got into the lower end, but considering the engine didn't see any load, it could be salvage-able. A little blow by never killed anyone. Might hurt power a tiny bit, but could still last quite a while and give you good fun in the mean time.

I think it would be worth trying again with just another OEM head, maybe just stock cams all around, bolted up to the rest of the motor you have now provided you don't have a hole in a piston. Vq35de heads are actually pretty cheap.

What were the symptoms you had? Engine wouldn't run unless you put it to wot? And it stopped cranking over?

Thanks for sharing with us. Keep your chin up, chances are you might not be in as deep as you think.

Last edited by Resmarted; May 9, 2016 at 09:41 PM.
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Old May 10, 2016 | 06:56 AM
  #379  
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Originally Posted by Conway_160
Motor may be F'd, Not sure what happened, but may have bent valves, messed up pistons sky is the limit.


Attachment 378032

Attachment 378033
That really sucks! This was your 3rd time putting it back together? Im real sorry you are going thru this.
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Old May 10, 2016 | 07:16 AM
  #380  
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So when I first started the car it fired up right away but I had to shut it down since I smelled antifreeze and it was smoking so I shut it off to investigate. Started it back up it started up right away again but still smoked so I shut it down again and realized it was the coolant I spilled on the headers. So I tired fired it up again to let it warm up and try to break in the cams but it was a little hesitant this time, but it fired up and I let it run at 2k for 30-45 seconds with the laptop hooked up and noticed the big big difference between the two banks A/F Ratio so I shut it down. Untill I could do a little digging to ensure everything was hooked up correctly.

After I verified it was hooked up I tried to start it with now luck until is held the throttle wide open. I tired this a few times I finally said F it and looked at the cams and crank to look their postions that's when I noticed that bank 2 (Driver side?) was off so decided to pull the front timing cover and found the carnage.....

So I just used my crappy crappy camera to take some videos of my #1 bank (Passenger Side?) to see if I could see if I had any marks but I didn't see anything.

#2


#4


This one looks bad, like its seen a lot of detonation but I think that's just the camera need to find a better one to redo it.

#6



They all seem to have some signs of detonation I'm just hoping its the camera and not actuall detonation since the motor has less than 500 miles on it non of which have been hard. Its only seen 5k a few times.
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