Godspeed turbo. 5psi tial wastegate spring that I've seen hit 7.8psi Here are timing maps and dyno.
Using 550cc injectors and stock iridium plugs at stock gap. Using UTEC 550cc TN map and running about 11.8-12 af/r at full boost. I didn't pull vdc fuse and not sure if I was suppose to

Pulls done in 5th gear 75 degrees. 50% humidity. Elevation 146ft
Quarter was 12.9 with 1.98 60ft
EDIT* The 550cc injectors I got off ebay are know not to be flowmatched, but I pulled a few plugs and they looked the same on the tips

 

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Do you need opinion? if so then give more details especially on your map tune. I see timing map but you didnt give us the min and max MAP value for that map. if you want to run at 8 psi then maybe set your min to 1 and your Max should be 10. This will give you extra 2 psi in case you get a boost spike. I dont know what PSI your tune per column. give us your Utec parameters.. Also your dyno doesn't give us the boost and rpm so I dont know what PSI you are running on that curve. You mentioned it's a boost map from the TN kit yet you dont have a TN kit. If you spent time at the dyno then why not tweak the setting right there and give us the final numbers. It look like you just load the base map and assume all will work out. Base map mean in it's a starting point for you to tune your care without doing it from scratch... i'll start getting A/F maybe to 11.4-11.7 but not 12 though...

 

Boost map was modified from original 0-12 to 1-8(cutout is 8psi so I can't boost over that). MAx boost is 7.8. Oldman Z told me in my build thread that my timing is very retarded and I should work on that.

Godspeed kit is just a TN replica.

The dyno was free at my brother school. I wasn't able to change anything and had very limited time.

No bosst or RPM. I do have the MPH if I take another picture, but I would assume it's full boost for the whole run. I'll have to take the car out and see what it's boosting. It's been a year since I checked(no boost gauge except on the computer)

 

My brother was in the car with me and he said the car felt like it was bouncing on the rollers. that other cars were smooth. They had to ghetto rig my rears to hold the back down to avoid hitting the tires

 

Edited, i misread your boost map
yes your timing is to low, actually way low... the best way is plug a laptop and do some run and log your run. You will actually see what RPM/Boost/timing and if your Knock setting is calibrated right then you'll see where you are detonating. Also if you have the Utec tuner then you can actually log the A/F with it.

Rule of thumb is you want to run the lowest timing at peak TQ and in our engine that is usually around 4750rpm. for example at 8psi and 4750rpm I usually run around 12 deg and as the rpm goes up and tq goes down i add more timing and maybe capping timing around 15-17 until redline... every car run respond differently though...

good luck.

 

I have a LC-1 that can log the af/r with MPS utec logger. It's much better than using hyperterminal

 

I have both and i still find the Utec Tuner more accurate. there is a delay with the LC-1 and you have to play around with the MPS software to get the delay dialed in to match the Utec data... The last thing you want is take fuel out the wrong area.

Edit:
Actually you can use the MPS or the UTI logger from Jeffsoftware with the UTEC tuner. give's you both accuracy and the power of the GUI interface... I use the UTI software... I used the LC-1 for tuning the first 2 years but then i got fed up with the delay so i went got me the Tuner...

 

Oh sorry I am using the one from jeffssoftware, I thought it was called MPS logger. it's been a while since i've played with it

 

Seems like your wheels are bent or tires are not very round and cause the rear to jump around like you noticed. Since you are relying on roller speed (with tires bouncing on them) not RPM that's probably where the jumpyness is coming from. It could also be misfire from too retarded of timing or even the UTEC itself (they are known for grounding issues). <EDIT> I mis-read your timing, yes it looks very low -- I'd shoot for 16 deg up top after your A/F is dialed in and go up to no more than 18 after checking for knock. That should put you in the 350whp range.

 

Tires are brand new and I have never felt any vibrations driving the car on the highway. They had to put the straps like an X versus II and use a strap to pull the straps away from the tires.

Def no misfires, but 50whp from timing alone?! I would def feel that on the butt dyno.
A/fr is dialed in nicely.

 

Yea 50whp could probably be had with careful timing adjustments. I'm actually reaching up to 22 degrees at redline on my drag runs with minimal knock. But I'd keep it under 18 degrees on 93 pump and be careful not to ramp it up too quickly, you need to be fairly conservative in the peak tq 3.5-4.5k area.