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Forced Induction Turbochargers and Superchargers..Got Boost?

please help, new engine not making power. valve float?

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Old Dec 18, 2015 | 12:02 PM
  #21  
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R6n350GT
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Turbo return line then? Glad you found it.
Yes, brass fitting stopped any potential kinks. It really needs larger housing but no room. Even with that housing the T3 and manifolds just stop any power. The E85 could not even be utilized

Originally Posted by iideadeyeii
Different tuners? A much retarded timing could lose you that much power.

I've been told I'm losing 30+whp (sitting at 295 boosted) because my timing is pulled about 8 degrees too much.
yes but he increased timing by 5 - 10% and no extra power so i asked him for that. Was just not happy with end power for $$ spent on 3rd engine rebuild and labour. This time i did it myself, and will get local guy to make the pipe work.

Thinking of using exhaust cut out from sound performance instead of open dump pipes but not sure yet
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Old Dec 18, 2015 | 05:21 PM
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SP is super expensive. There are $100 vacuum actuated cut outs on ebay now and they work great (much better than electric). Mine bypass a stock G37 muffler when pressure is above -3 psi. Output jumped several hundred hp bypassing the muffler.


Last edited by rcdash; Dec 18, 2015 at 05:22 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2015 | 09:59 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by rcdash
SP is super expensive. There are $100 vacuum actuated cut outs on ebay now and they work great (much better than electric). Mine bypass a stock G37 muffler when pressure is above -3 psi. Output jumped several hundred hp bypassing the muffler.

Thanks RCdash, that looks great, any videos with it running ?

I could not find any vacuum actuated cut out on ebay, only electric. and most looked so cheap they would fail in months. Do you have one to recommend ?



*this is boosted performance kit, his wont fit my rhd or i would have brought one from him.

Where should it be placed ? Only reason to use it is if law look under car i dont want them to see open dump pipes...

Last edited by R6n350GT; Dec 18, 2015 at 10:01 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2015 | 10:09 PM
  #24  
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I have fujitsubo legalis r exhaust with 3 " midpipe so i hope that will not be a restriction in all of this.

I am swapping my hks kit



as you can see why the manifolds are killing my 600HP + dreams


And will now use fujitsubo headers that are 2" ID collectors and from there Twin Scroll T4 6466 with S port cover but should i go 1.15or 1.32 a/r ?


Engine is basicly built like stage 2.5 .
http://www.importpartspro.com/st2vqloblni3.html
but has following upgrades
ARP Main Studs
ARP L19 Head Studs
Cometic Head Gaskets
BC stage 2 cams with springs
ATI dampener pully

so the only "weak" parts are 96mm Wiseco Pistons .020 over and Eagle H rods and no billet girdle.

import parts say 650-750 RWHP for this build, is that limited by pistons and rods - only reason is, should i just get a 1.15 a/r knowing the engine cant handle much more ??

Im going to read your build threads now Rcdash but hope this posts answers other peoples questions with small stock manifolds and T3 turbos .82 a/r
You will unlikely get over 450RWHP on a DD

Last edited by R6n350GT; Dec 18, 2015 at 10:14 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2015 | 01:34 PM
  #25  
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I'd say the headgaskets are weak link. the pistons and rods should do 600+
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by R6n350GT
I could not find any vacuum actuated cut out on ebay, only electric. and most looked so cheap they would fail in months. Do you have one to recommend ?
I am using an e-cutout from this company
http://www.badlanzhpe.com/

Works great. They have been around over ten years(I bought one from them about 8 years ago. The cheap chinese looking ones on ebay do not seal. I think a boost activated would be nicer, but I have no experience with companies that make those
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