MEANZs AAM twin turbo kit journey
fun stuff!
12-18-2015, 05:35 AM
#22
I'll update this and say it's in! Fitment is very tight and precise. If it's off just a little bit, your not gonna get it in. Had install and pull engine a few times to get it lined up correctly. I'll add pics later.
Couple of small issues I had. Passenger side manifold and drivers side turbo need just a little bit more clearance. Engine gets wedged in car making it difficult to just slide back in how I'm used to. Also, we ended up pulling Tranny and mating it up out side the car. Should of did this to begin with. A lot easier.
Since there is very little wiggle room, it makes lining up the engine mount bolts to the frame difficult. I found it easier to pull out a 15 pound sledge hammer and make some room. I would imagine if you have a lift and can lower the front cross member down, do that. It will make life easier.
If you have starter removed for any reason, install it before you install manifold and turbo. You will run into a clearance issue with the oil return hitting the solenoid. Had to loosen up turbo and manifold to get started in. If you miss this step, it will cost you some time.
Intake piping on passenger side turbo is tight fit. You can have it installed when lowering engine in. Or to make it easier, just remove the power steering pump and you can access it better and install it after engine is in.
If your running a aftermarket engine mount, you might need to cut the stud down so it doesn't hit the coupler coming off of turbo. No big deal.
The passenger side turbo might rest on top of the clamps holding power steering lines, I had to remove mine to get the mount to go down into the hole.
Again this kit is a very tight fitting kit. If you don't have everything 100%. Your gonna waste time installing. There looks to be plenty of room coming out behind the turbos. Biggest issue I had was clearance on the manifolds in the bay. You might not have this issue if you drop it out the bottom, but you will have it if sliding in from the front.
Make sure to have all oil and coolant lines tightened down. You won't be able to access them in the car.
Now that the hard part is finished, I'll button everything up and post more pics. Can't wait to see how this thing is when finished. Also if you have any issues installing this kit. Customer support has been great and quickly replies back to help. Thanks Patrick..
Couple of small issues I had. Passenger side manifold and drivers side turbo need just a little bit more clearance. Engine gets wedged in car making it difficult to just slide back in how I'm used to. Also, we ended up pulling Tranny and mating it up out side the car. Should of did this to begin with. A lot easier.
Since there is very little wiggle room, it makes lining up the engine mount bolts to the frame difficult. I found it easier to pull out a 15 pound sledge hammer and make some room. I would imagine if you have a lift and can lower the front cross member down, do that. It will make life easier.
If you have starter removed for any reason, install it before you install manifold and turbo. You will run into a clearance issue with the oil return hitting the solenoid. Had to loosen up turbo and manifold to get started in. If you miss this step, it will cost you some time.
Intake piping on passenger side turbo is tight fit. You can have it installed when lowering engine in. Or to make it easier, just remove the power steering pump and you can access it better and install it after engine is in.
If your running a aftermarket engine mount, you might need to cut the stud down so it doesn't hit the coupler coming off of turbo. No big deal.
The passenger side turbo might rest on top of the clamps holding power steering lines, I had to remove mine to get the mount to go down into the hole.
Again this kit is a very tight fitting kit. If you don't have everything 100%. Your gonna waste time installing. There looks to be plenty of room coming out behind the turbos. Biggest issue I had was clearance on the manifolds in the bay. You might not have this issue if you drop it out the bottom, but you will have it if sliding in from the front.
Make sure to have all oil and coolant lines tightened down. You won't be able to access them in the car.
Now that the hard part is finished, I'll button everything up and post more pics. Can't wait to see how this thing is when finished. Also if you have any issues installing this kit. Customer support has been great and quickly replies back to help. Thanks Patrick..
The following users liked this post:
taywan (12-19-2015)
12-18-2015, 05:57 AM
#23
New Member
The fact that it's so tight to important things worries me
12-18-2015, 11:54 AM
#30
New Member
See that's way too close to too much
12-18-2015, 03:21 PM
#33
New Member
Definitely with you on that
12-18-2015, 04:03 PM
#34
And engine is back in. I have more room around manifolds and turbos. Engine dropped back In super smooth. I made some more room clocking turbos as much as possible and with the sledge also, lol. But I'm happy it's fitting better.
Last edited by meanz; 12-18-2015 at 04:45 PM.
12-18-2015, 05:28 PM
#35
Turbos should be clocked 20 degrees anyway with coolant exit point higher than entry point. This facilitates coolant flow and significantly lower CHRA temps. High mounted turbos are always super tight. Any issues with the steering knuckle? Good job doing this on jack stands!
Last edited by rcdash; 12-18-2015 at 05:30 PM.
